When I retired 18 months ago I bought a one year old Rover 75 2.0 CDT with 12000 miles on the clock. The oil was changed by the dealer before collection. I've now done close to 24,000 miles and according to the service interval display ( which also takes driving style i.e. fuel consumption into account) it's soon due for an 'inspection'. This is more or less in line with the handbook which, If I read the correctly, specifies oil changes every 30,000 miles and 'inspections' every other 15,000 miles. Does this sound right? My recent experience with 'modern' diesel cars (a company Peugeot 406 etc) was that they needed an oil change about every 12,000 miles.
What does an 'inspection' entail? Is it just a case of checking levels and tyre pressures? With older family cars I normally manage the routine oil /filter/ brake pad changes myself but the handbook gives no clue to what is required and, surprisingly, there seems to be no Haynes manual published for this car. The car seems to performing faultlessly and I am loathe to spend needless money for the dealer ( I think about £250) just to oil the hinges.
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Further to my original posting, I notice that in a previous posting a Rover 75 diesel owner has his oil and filter changed every 5000 miles! Although I'm a believer in regular oil/filter changes in line with manufacturers' recommendations, surely this is over the top for a modern car?
As an aside, the company I previously worked for had an arrangement with a well known oil company whereby we put mileage on their test cars. In these cars the oil and filter was never changed, just topped up with the oil provided as required. From time to time the a small sample of oil was extracted and sent for analysis and after about 150,000 - 200,00 miles the cars were returned for an engine strip down and inspection. We weren't privvy to the results but the cars never seemed to give any engine problems.
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I have a PSA diesel which is on a 1 year/12,000 mile service schedule; it has an 'intermediate' service done between the main ones and it costs £35.
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The "inspection" you refer to also includes an oil & filter change
The routine for your car is :
Oil & Filter change at 15000
Inspection (including Oil & Filter change ) at 30,000
Oil & Filter change at 45,000
Inspection (including Oil & Filter change ) at 60,000
etc
etc
the nominal 15000 interval varies according to amount of fuel used (ie long runs = low fuel consumption = longer service intervals and vice versa.) The long service interval is as a result of using fully synthetic longlife oil and if you intend to follow the manufacturers service intervals you must use the approved oil specified in your handbook.
Opinion is divided on the longer service intervals with many owners opting to run with a more traditional 6-8000 mile interval between oil changes despite the claims of the oil companies and car manufacturers that is unnecessary.
I change mine every 7500m - but this is a decision you need to take depending on how long you intend to keep the car.
The inspection will cover a complete check of brakes(pads,discs,brake lines), ,steering ,suspension,tyres, and a check to see all systems are operating correctly plus any items specific to the model you have (..............and hopefully a quick oil of the hinges as well!)
Jacks
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Thanks to all for the information and advice. It now makes more sense and I will certainly change the oil and filter in the near future. I feel happy that i can check pads , discs etc myself (in any case first MOT coming up in January) but the main concern is that I lack any electronic diagnostic equipment to check that the systems are operating correctly. Perhaps I'll invest in the dealer service next time so that I can get the hinges properly lubricated!!
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My CDT has had the oil changed every 5K and given no engine problems in 227,000 miles now, however there is the associated cost. Anything that goes wrong with this engine is not cheap to repair so I see it as prevention better than cure. Usually pay local garage/fast fit places around £25-30 for an oil change.
Other than that I dont get it serviced at the dealer, just all the filters and fluids changed at MOT time which usually costs around £150. Think the coolant is due every 4 years and gearbox oil every 60K regardless of age.
I think I have a service sheet in excel somewhere so if you give me your email address I will gladly send it over, wilth details of what needs doing at what age/mileage. Regarding pads etc, regardless of your spec it will have a warning light to say when they need changing in any case - usually prematurely so pleanty of time to get them done.
One final note, the engine is chain driven and costs well into 4 figures to change should it start to rattle and frequent oil changes are key to the longlivity of it.
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Dear bbroomlea(P)
If you have a 'full list' of the various servicing requirements for a 75 CDTi I would be very grateful for an e-mail copy.
Many thanks in advance.
< johneturner@talktalk.net >
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 23/09/2008 at 19:48
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hi! i have just recently bought a rover 75 cdt and i'll be very interested in getting a copy of your service sheet list too. my email is edadare@hotmail.com
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Hi could you send me a copy of the service sheet if you have it thanks
comley764@btinternet.com
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Haynes do publish an Owners Workshop Manual for the Rover 75 & MG ZT (1999 to 2006) Book No. 4292, this covers all petrol and diesel versions except the 4.6Lt V8.
It gives a tip on how to re-set the service indicator back to 15,000 miles if you are doing your own servicing.
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As stated above there is worhshop manual,also the pads have sensors and will let you know if they need changing they are situated on the offside wheels.I have the MG ztt cd version and has now done over 100K its a BMW engine capable of many hudreds of thousand miles if the oil is changed on a regular basis.Its know wonder they went bankrupt the quality of the trim etc exceeds anything you would get on much more expensive cars you can see how BMW lost money on every car they sold.
One thing you must do and that is keep the water drain free under the main ecu otherwise it could cost you dearly an easy job you need a philips screw driver and a metal coathanger.
Edited by Andy Bairsto on 17/11/2009 at 14:05
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