"Any other things I shoud do to keep a trust-worthy K-series running for ever?"
1. Change the coolant regularly and check its level at least once a week.
2. Ensure the entire cooling system is as close to perfection as possible.
3. Any coolant loss needs to be investigated immediately.
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What is the logic for replacing the water pump at the same time as the cambelt - are the two somehow linked? Is there any reason why I shouldn't do the cambelt and then the water pump at some other point? Many thanks for the advice.
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Cambelt drives the water pump on a lot of cars. If the water pump fails, it can take out the belt with it. As you have to take the belt off to change the pump, you may as well spend an extra few minutes changing the pump while you've got it all apart.
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As DD mentioned,apart from when they start leaking,it isnt long before they sieze and take cambelt with them.
Any decent mech will advise all has to changed,if not, dont use them!
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Steve
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Any decent mech will advise all has to changed,if not, dont use them! --
The last time I had my Polo in for major work at the garage (tappets) I asked, since the cam belt would be loosened, and I wanted the coolant replaced, whether I could have the water pump changed at the same time. He asked why, to which informed him that i'd heard that the water pump can seize and take the cam belt with it. He agreed that if the pump was to seize that it would take the belt with it, but had said he'd never seen one go on any of the cars he'd worked on, and replacement won't necessarily prevent a failure. Now before you ask, this was at a well respected VW indy, which is highly recommended by VAG forums. However, when the belt and coolant are due for renewal next year, i'll probably tell them do to it regardless.
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Roberson,I cannot comment on your local indy-but 214 cambelt change is 60k-or 5 years whichever comes first,water pump has been known to fail before this on this engine,and others I know of.
however for a mech to say they have not seen one go,takes some believing!
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Steve
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Roberson,
I'd say that the advise given to you was extremely sound. Particularly the bit about replacing the water pump not guaranteeing freedom from future hassle.
Any part fitted with rolling element bearings (no matter how high quality) can suffer early failure. Bearing failure occurs according to a probability distribution, with a very long "tail".
Phrased another way - when a manufacturer specifies any rolling element bearing, he knows that he will see warranty claims from the failure of that bearing.
Of course, in more cases than not, replacement is wise, but you can be unlucky, and throw a part in the bin that would have lasted twice the typical life for a water pump, and replace it with a new one which will only last for half a typical life. You just can't tell by looking!
Number_Cruncher
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This issue is more complex than an evaluation of rolling bearing failure. If it were simply a matter of assessing the condition of a rolling bearing after (say) 60k miles then, to quote from the SKF bearing book, "A bearing which is undamaged...can be remounted without risk".
The problem is that we are dealing with a water pump which has a seal. This component is a wearing part and is instrumental to the survival of the pump bearings - any leakage here will result in lubrication failure.
Obviously, we are balancing probabilities when renewing a pump, but in view of the access time in an installation of this type, replacement is a wise course of action in the case of any pump which has covered 100k miles or so. Of course, any pump which shows signs of coolant leakage through the bearing vent hole or bearing free play must be changed without question. A new pump correctly fitted from a reputable maker is unlikely to fail.
659.
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My Polo on 140K is still on its original water pump.
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I do tend to agree that changing the pump is wise, but it is no guarantee.
>>A bearing which is undamaged...
As rolling contact fatigue damage is initiated beneath the surface of the bearing race, then it is a better eye than mine that can say with certainty that a bearing is undamaged.
...from a reputable maker is unlikely to fail.
I do agree; perhaps I was being pedantic, but there is a gulf between unlikely to fail, and certainly will not fail.
Number_Cruncher
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>>I do agree; perhaps I was being pedantic,
If you was not NC, then K series certainly is on cooling front it dont forgive mistakes,to add,the anti freeze has to be changed as well,if not, its certain other problems will arise!
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Steve
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Put it this way NC,Its not a risk I would take on this engine or certain others.
For the cost of replacing it,its far cheaper than damage caused by not,But then its down to OP whether he does or not.
But I would recommend it is changed,and as someone else mentioned its usually the seal that goes first,then bearing pretty sharpish,then without much warning overheating will kill engine anyway
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Steve
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