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Yes, hot. But beware of windy conditions, because a thin stream (and subsequent drips) of thin hot oil can blow all over the place after the first minute or so.
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Thanks all - Roger, gave up on Quickfit, the filter thing was an issue with them, thanks.
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After the initial drain,I always "flush" with half a litre of new oil to help the contents at the bottom of the sump on their way, and leave it to drain for 30 mins.
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After the initial drain,I always "flush" with half a litre of new oil to help the contents at the bottom of the sump on their way, and leave it to drain for 30 mins.
That's an interesting suggestion - I've never heard that one before.
But you don't know that the route taken by the new oil as it dribbles down to and across the sump on its way to the plug hole is actually where the remnants of the old oil is lying. You might simply be bypassing a pool of old oil and pouring the new oil straight out of the plug hole. Do you put the plug back in to let the oil back up a bit, or let it flow straight out?
Also the new oil will be cold and more viscous- do you warm it up first?
What about putting a reversed vacuum cleaner on the oil filler and giving a blast of air through the crankcase?
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cdbr
Kwik-Fit can of course supply the filter themselves, but they don't carry them in stock for my MB and Golf VR6, so need warning in advance.
Too late now, I guess, but you can tell your Kwik-Fit that other branches have been happy to use customer filters provided they can put "customer's own filter" on the invoice. That's a perfectly sound safeguard in respect of the corporate liability risk they are so nervous about.
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To end the story Roger - I couldn't get the filter cartridge undone so I tried again at Kwikfit, after some brow beating they agreed to do it with my filter. I suspected that they might not be familiar with the merc diesel engine so I hung around to tell him where to find the cartridge, sump plug (it's under covers)and then explain how you check the level on the instrument panel, he found the cartridge cover difficult but had much better tools than me. £35 did the job, thanks again for the tip. Halfords refunded my two cans of mobil one as well.
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Good result, cdbr.
I bought a filter-cap removal tool from the local MB dealer for only £8, which I use on my W126 spin-on filter (I do that myself, using Magnatec) and which also fits my W124's canister filter, so I take it into Kwik-Fit, where they are pleased to use it and are always saying "Only £8? We'll have to get one." The filters are in the same position on the 103 and 104 engines, the W126/M103 being awkward to get at (someone actually damaged a throttle linkage rod doing that, which screwed up everything, including cruise control) and the W124/M104 is a veritable pig.
You were wise to give the Kwik-Fit spanner controller some guidance. The first time I took the W124 in to them, he drained the autobox, thinking it was the sump. He and his manager were more than a little embarrassed when I intervened and asked them if they had ever seen oil that colour. So they had to refill the autobox, after calling MB for the spec (at my insistence). Then their Mobil 1 pump packed up and they had to go across the road to buy two retail packs from the accessories shop. Hence they spent over £100, but were decent enough to charge me £20 for the job. We laugh about it now . . . well, I still go there four times a year so they do remember me.
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After the initial drain,I always "flush" with half a litre of new oil to help the contents at the bottom of the sump on their way, and leave it to drain for 30 mins.
A total waste of half a litre of oil.
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Agreed,this is what flushing oil is for,cheaper and made for the job.
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Thoughts on this one?
Drain hot sump. Briefly restart engine to empty filter contents into sump. Allow to drain.
This ensures that all the mucky oil still in the internal galleries is removed and minimises spillage from the filter when removed particularly on horizontal filters.
Engine start on no oil!! Well there must be enough still in the bores and bearings to keep them lubricated for a short while and the engine is not under load.
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Fullchat
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>>>Drain hot sump. Briefly restart engine to empty filter contents into sump.
I would never start an engine with no oil in it under any circumstances. You are asking for a seized engine. Just drain when the oil is hot.
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I agree, I'd never start an engine with no oil in the sump, the oil pump with not have any 'body' in it www.timgilles.com/photogallery/Engines/13.14oilpum...g
and things powered by oil pressure such as tensioners and hydraulic valvegear systems will be dead. A filter cannister should have a drainback valve anyway which will keep leakage to a few drips. Most filters of the insert type realease the oil to the sump when you remove the lid due to the stem/plug that it attatched to the lid..
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Briefly restart engine to empty filter contents into sump.
Why not just empty them into the bin along with the old filter itself? :-S
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If there's no oil in the sump how will the pump manage to empty the canister anyway - it can't pump air, only oil?
And if it does, you now have a pump and supply pipe with no oil in them, so the pump will have to pump dry next time until it primes itself.
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Drain hot sump. Briefly restart engine to empty filter contents into sump. >>
Makes me cringe to think that I may one day buy a second hand car from someone who does that!
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I use a large plastic bag to wrap the filter in before undoing it (after loosening it of course).
And always refill filter with oil before refitting so time taken for pressure for build up on restart is minimal.
Running engine with no oil, flushing with 0.5pint of oil?
How quaint. Are these methods selected from The Garge Book of Horrors? Or How to Waste Money Or How to ruin Your Engine?
Always drain oil when it is warm.. flows much better and empties quicker. Dirt/swarf in sump either stays there or the filter removes it...
(not that modern cars produce much.. now Minis with combined engine/gearbox oil always produced loads of swarf.. hence the magnetised drain plug.. Those were the days.. NOT!)
madf
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>> Drain hot sump. Briefly restart engine to empty filter contents into sump. >> Makes me cringe to think that I may one day buy a second hand car from someone who does that!
In my motorbike service book (Honda), it advises to crank the engine a couple of seconds on the elctric starter once all the oil has been drained out.
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In my motorbike service book (Honda), it advises to crank the engine a couple of seconds on the elctric starter once all the oil has been drained out.
That is rather different than starting it, what bike is it?
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That is rather different than starting it, what bike is it?
A Honda CB125TDC.
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As well as filling the replacement filter as full as is practicable with fresh oil before fitting, I always "dead crank" the engine when it has been refilled until oil pressure is developed. For the PSA vehicle I service this is dead easy, using a pattern key with no transponder (the one I hide outside the vehicle in case the key is locked inside). It takes quite a bit of cranking to achieve oil pressure, but at least this is done without gas loading on the crank bearings.
I would never ever fire an engine without oil pressure - if you have ever heard the big end bearings knock when this has been done, you may care not to repeat it.
I'm not generally in favour of flushing oil - a bit of a throwback from the past, and can be a real liability on engines fitted with hydraulic tappets as dislodged dirt can block them. Obviously, there's nothing to beat frequent oil changing, but if you acquire a neglected engine, simply change the oil more frequently for the first few times, and consider cleaning the sump strainer.
659.
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For the PSA vehicle I service
What is it?
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Peugeot 106 diesel 1.5 litre.
659
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Runing the engine empty does not do anything for you. A oil pump can not pump air and the pressure relieve valve is after the pump not before it. Whilst some oil (small amount )can get pushed out of the filter the greatest amount is retained by the one valve that most filters have in them and on removing this with the filter the oil in the passageway down to the pump flows back to the sump. However and engine will run at tickover without oil and without harming bearing surfaces as it is the presence of oil not the pressure that protects them in a low load situation but all the oil has now been pressed out of the cam followers thus delaying the priming and return of oil pressure at start up or cranking prime. I would suggest not running the engine at all when the sump if empty. Bear in mind that some cars when a replacement oil pump is fitted have to have the pump packed with grease/petrolium jelly to allow it to prime. Some cars also suffer priming prolems if the sump draining was done on an inverse slope ( nose up home type job on the drive )and then filled and started they refuse to prime unless they are on the flat. Regards Peter
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I can't imagine why you would do this rather than just unscrewing the filter and launching it into the bin, as you need to put the new filter on anyway.
Some people.
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