Can anyone shed some options on the recent oil sludge appearing in our 1998 Freelander xei ? Read on another site about problems involved with only ever doing short journeys (esp.in winter)and not allowing the oil to ever get to a decent 'working' temp. I am also aware of probs with the head gaskets on early Freelanders and am concerned about this. We are also losing coolant like it's going out of style !!
Looking forward to some top tips.
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Top tip? Drive it to the scrapyard whilst you still can!
Seriously though, sounds like head gasket has gone. Don't drive it, get it to a garage ASAP. If you're lucky it may be repairable. Depending on extent of failure you're looking at £500 upwards.
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As Aprilia,though if anyone says it can be done cheaper probably can,but will end up back in workshop within a year.
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Steve
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Thanks lads for the replies. Is the loss of coolant associated with all of this too ?? Or do we have a radiator problem aswell ??
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Loss of coolant on these more associated with H/G as pressure from combustion chamber forces water out of the system,ie expansion cap cannot cope and water is expelled,if pressure and temp build up too much whole unit can fry and new unit is needed.
reason why its best to get it looked at before any major damage occurs
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Steve
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And when it is repaired sell it. Often recurs as head or block warp and seal never lasts..
madf
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I recently had my Punto Head Gaket 'go' after the characteristic gurgling noise/airlock in the coolant. Was reaired at a main dealer with a one-year garauntee on the work.
This opinion about a head gasket repair often not lasting, is that specific to the Freelander or does it apply generally??
Cheers
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1.8 petrols are notoriously bad for destroying cylinder heads after the gasget has gone or maybe its a head fault that causes the gasget go either way they are a problem.
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This opinion about a head gasket repair often not lasting, is that specific to the Freelander or does it apply generally??
Don't know for sure, but when My Polo gasket popped (in the previous drivers ownership) it lasted over 50,000 miles before popping again (which was only a month ago). Even then, I wouldn't say it was the fault of the repair, more so the gasket itself, quite poor quality.
I think early failure will only be more likely if the engine overheated/warped
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When an aluminium cyclinder head has HGF , it should be checked to ensure the face is flat and machined flat (skimmed). Since the Freelander engine has basic design faults causing HGF - bolts etc - once it goes if not repaired carefully and skimmed - then it is likely to go again. Factor in not properly purging the cooling system with air and most garage semi incompetence.. and re-failing is quite likely.
If driven with no water and the engine overheats a lot, cylinder head warping/more engine damage is I believe quite likely.
I have seen a lot with bonnet up and head off in garages....
Bargepole job once gone imo. Bargepole job if high mileage. Bargepole job if neglected.
madf
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Another 1.8 K Series meets its maker. I wonder why some enterprising person hasn't engineered a simple transplant for these, there must be a Ford engine that could easily be slotted in.
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What are your opinions of doing the job without replacing the head bolts? I would have thought that this was a no-brainer, but apparantley it can be done depending on the measured length of the bolt itself, and retaining the bolt's original position.
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Doesn't seem worth it to me, they're not that expensive in relation to all the hassle and time spent doing the repair. May as well do it properly first time.
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One of the causes of failure was unequal length bolts which would bottom on the threads and appear tight but not grip the head tight enough.
Any mechanic who suggests not replacing the bolts on this engine .. words fail me.
Why spend £500 and save £35 or so on new bolts when you can spend another £535 in six months' time when it fails again..?:-)
Always replace the bolts with a reputable make or you may just continue the problem...
madf
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Thanks for the replies guys. The reason I asked is that one of my customers replaced a head gasket on one of these cars about a month ago. We supplied a quality headset, but when we asked about bolts he said he wasn't going to replace them. Two days ago the HG failed, and now he wants all his labour paid, cost of hire car etc taken care of.
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He's having a laugh surely. You kept to your part of the deal and that was supplying the head gasket set. What happens to that after he has left cannot be up to you. Neither can the quality of his repair. How badly was the old head warped for example?
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and now he wants all his labour paid, cost of hire car etc taken care of.
I bet he didnt check the length of the bolts before assembly-AS stated in the manual to do,Or get the head checked?
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Steve
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I think the usual LandRover advice for cooked 1.8's is new engine. Cue big (£3k?) bill. Kerrrrching!! However, hopefully this one will be OK with a rebuild as it is still running, and hasn't been cooked.
When I bought a second head gasket for my BX TD (having wrecked the first one gettting the head in position!) the shop told me it wouldn't be warranted unless I used new stretch bolts (already bought previously). Can't see the wisdow of saving a few quid and having to do it all again. Same applies to clutches - the one I've just done in a friend's 306 showed signs of the box having been out before, and when we got the clutch off the friction plate was hardly worn, yet the car has covered 140k, and the clutch was fearsomely heavy and coming in right at the bottom. Looks like somebody saved £40 on an all day job by not replacing the pressure plate!
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RichardW
Is it illogical? It must be Citroen....
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I have been told the head was within tolerances. (6 thou apparantley).
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Read this: www.mgfcar.de/hgf/stretch_bolt_trouble.htm
on head bolts.
ANYONE who does not replace them on a K series engine deserves title of "muppet"
madf
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If the mileage is not huge then I dont think replacing the stretch bolts is a big issue. HG went on my 214 and the bolts were not replaced, nor were they done on my metro I had before. Both K series engines.
Now on second HG on 214 (second was my fault due to leaking radiator that didnt get replaced soon enough) with original bolts and 112K. General opinion on mg-rover.org and garage I used (rover specialists) is that they dont need replacing on an engine thats not covered a significant amount of miles. Also, believe they are a bit more than £30 and cost in excess off £120 if they are all to be done.
May be wrong, especially if it was an over stretched bolt that caused failure in the first place however the garage should be able to tell and advise accordingly.
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The problem with the K series engine is that when it really cooks the head it cooks the bolts as well, on this engine it is better to change the bolts normally sourced at a local specialised Knut and Bolt supplier at a very fair price you could almost knock a nought of the £120.
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