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Got a friend who has a low mileage TR6 (I think about 25k) that has been in his garage for 10-12 years. In order to get it up and running again what is the best course of action to go down - or should some pros come in. Also would it be worth doing up?
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I assume the vehicle has not been started for that time? I would check all the fluids, pour some fresh petrol in the tank and crank it first with the coil lead off. This will allow you to turn the motor without the engine starting to see if you can register oil pressure. If the oil pressure seems normal, reattach the coil lead and turn the engine over, gradully using the choke. If you are lucky it will start. Of course the fuel pump needs to be checked for operation. When it starts keep an eye on the gauges and watch for any leaks etc. The clutch may be seized, it may release while warming and stabbing at the clutch. How much money you spend depends on the current condition and what level of restoration you envisage.
Eleanor
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The big problem with Brit versions of these is the fuel injection system (US versions are on a pair of Strombergs). The seals or the fuel pump in the system itself cannot tolerate unleaded petrol. Mods are available. But really you need to contact the club. I think it's the Triumph Sports Six Club. It's in the clubs directory on this website.
HJ
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Fully agree about unleaded fuel attacking hoses and seals in the TR6 fuel injection system, also that this problem (and others) has been overcome by the specialists.
Not so sure about the Triumph Sports Six Club recommendation since, despite the name, I think this club is more for Heralds and their derivatives. I could be wrong but I bet that there is a specialist club out there for the TRs.
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In Practical Classics it is given as for six cylinder sports plus Herald and Spitfire, which certainly implies TR6.
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On the other hand, the web site seems to imply main interest is these other vehicles (any attempt at being sporting in the Herald or early swing-axle Vitesse is certainly going to be interesting!).
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I once asked a member why it was called the 'Sports Six' when it seemed to cater mainly for Herald and derivatives. He agreed that Sports was perhaps a bit too much to claim but said that the Six indicated the number of models catered for, not the number of engine cylinders. I asked him what the six models were but he could only name five (I think these were Herald, Spitfire, Vitesse, GT6 and Bond Equipe).
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Go to
www.tr-register.co.uk/
Dedicated club for TR's only, even Tr 7 & 8!!!!
Rgds
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TR6s fetch a high price so I would think your friend's car should be worth doing up but you really need to get someone who is familiar with what is required to take a look at it before you start. Perhaps the following will give you an idea of what might be involved ...
The 1972 Triumph 2500 that I still own was bought by myself in 1975 and used as my main car until 1986, at which time it was still in very good condition (the only MOT it has ever failed was its first in 1975 -- cracked rubber steering coupling). My son took over the Triumph but soon lost interest and it was then left standing in the open until 1996 during which time it deteriorated very badly including severe corrosion of the bodywork due mainly to condensation -- which could happen also to any car, e.g. the TR6, stored for that time in a garage unless the atmosphere was dry.
The 2500 wasn't serviced during the time it was standing and I found that the engine oil had turned to a jelly through bacterial action. The brakes had seized and the front discs rusted beyond use, the seats and upholstery had all suffered from the condensation, the varnish had peeled off the wood-veneered door cappings, the bulkhead had rotted through, etc. etc. etc.
I put in about ten hours a day every Saturday and Sunday for 21 months, plus spending close to three grand, to restore the car to a nice condition. No work was contracted out so the total cost was in 'parts and paint' with no labour charges involved. To give you an idea of the dedication that is needed, I resprayed the car one evening so that the paint could harden off whilst I was in the States for 8 days on business -- I finished the spraying at almost midnight and left for Heathrow at 5.00am in the morning!
It may be that the TR6 will require a similar commitment but this does depend on its present condition and the quality that you would be looking for in the finished car (which will appreciably affect its value, unlike my 2500 which is not worth a great deal whatever its condition, except to myself).
There is more detail about my Triumph 2500 restoration on www.nicolawithers.net/triumph.html. Might be worthwhile reading this before you make a decision on the TR6. You might decide to go ahead or you might feel that it would be wiser to sell it 'as is'.
Best wishes, and please let us know what your friend decides.
David.
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CM,
I looked at your post earlier and thought you need David Withers.
His story says it all. To restore (even from dry storage) is loads of cash to a specialist, months of dedication or sell to someone who wants to take it on.
If a sale is possible and it is just got moveable one of the classic auctions could be good.
Folks will often pay over the odds for something that they can do up rather than the fully restored that fetch less than the cost of work.
David
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I've just spent a very enjoyable 20 minutes reading about the Triumph restoration, reminded me of the Mk 1 2.5PI that my Dad owned, he loved it but Mum could never master the gearbox! Unfortunately the tinworm got it in the end and as I was into bikes for a long time I never had the time to do anything with it.
Ah, nostalgia ain't what it used to be!
Rob S
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David Withers wrote:
My son took over the Triumph but soon lost interest and it was then left standing in the open until 1996.
I hope you don't lend him the car again, David!
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David
What an utterly gorgeous motor car. I was never very keen on Saffron Yellow as a colour for Heralds, but it seems to suit the 2500 shape very well. A big Triumph for historic rallying is slowly moving up my list of things to acquire - I almost bought a 2.5PI for this purpose last year, but it turned out to have less metalwork underneath than the makers intended.
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Rob and Richard, thanks for your kind comments.
My daughter used a point-and-shoot camera to take the photographs which were then photocopied on a cheap colour copier to produce A4 prints, the A4 prints later being scanned to provide the images for the webpage. There is obviously a good bit of image degradation but I was pleasantly surprised at how well they turned out. I agree that Saffron Yellow does suit this model in particular, especially with the black grill and rear panel, etc.
Richard, I think a 2.5 litre Triumph can be an excellent buy. It is an enjoyable car to own and drive, surprisingly fast and very easy to work on. It is also hugely cheaper to buy than an equivalent Stag which is basically an updated Triumph 2000 MkII with inbuilt unreliability (now largely overcome by the specialists, I hasten to add!). But I expect you know all this.
The main snag with the Triumph 2000/2500/2.5PI is that their low market value does not encourage owners to spend time and money on them so there are a lot of worn out ones about. Also, the post 1972 examples had bodies made in Canley instead of Swindon and the painting process was not so thorough. I seem to recall that the phosphating and hard priming stages were deleted.
Yours Triumphantly, (groan ...)
David.
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Thanks for all your advice. I will pass it on. I hope that the body work will be OK as I seem to remember the garage being a bit damp and I doubt a car cover will help much.
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I had a TR6 back in the 70's, until the rear chassis box sections rotted through. Easy to spot if you can get underneath.
Also had many problems with the fuel injection......it's a Lucas mechanical unit. Hate to think what it will be like if fuel has dried up in it.
Examples up to 1971 had 150bhp, later ones detuned to 125(?)bhp.
Great driver's car, even if it did handle like a plank.............
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