My Ford 5000 Radio keeps getting amnesia and loosing its security code.
I reinput the correct code and all is fine for a while, maybe an hour or so during a drive, then it requests the code again.
Each time I repeat this process the up time gets shorter until it will not accept the code.
If I leave it overnight then next morning it will accept the code.
There appears to be no loss of power, the normal reason for code re-input.
My repairer says" Its a Ford repair job."
If I cannot fix it then Ebay here I come.
It has a tape unit so it is not popular and not a high value on Ebay as so many are upgrading to a CD unit.
I have a six CD changer so it is fine for me.
A plus point is it is less attractive to scroats
It will be far cheaper to replace than Ford fix it.
Is it DIY fixable?
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I know you say there's no power loss Henry but are you certain your battery's fine? I imagine if it was running low, that could cause the problem.
I don't want to put a dampner on things, but I had a faulty 6000 stereo. Went into Ford and got told they're unfixable - 300 quid for a new one.
Try your Ford dealer by all means. I can't think of anything you'd be able to do yourself though. Mine was pretty well sealed with torx screws - even if you got it open, what would you look for?
Might be far easier to get yourself another 5000 unit off eBay or a 6000 unit and have 7 cds. (Or even a 6006 and have 12 cds!!)
Someone may have experienced this before and be able to help though.
Good luck,
Adam
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I know you say there's no power loss Henry but are you certain your battery's fine? I imagine if it was running low, that could cause the problem.
No reason to suspect the battery. Mondeo starts on the button ever time. I would have expected the reverse effect i.e. after draining the battery at start up the lower power would upset the radio but once the alternator was spinning all should be fine.
I don't want to put a dampner on things, but I had a faulty 6000 stereo.
>>Went into Ford and got told they're unfixable - 300 quid for a new one.
Exactly what I was expecting so not a dampner.
even if you got it open, what would you look for?
I await any other suggestions.
All I have in mind is to extract the unit, unplug it, and spray the connectors with contact cleaner in case it is a very brief power loss.
Might be far easier to get yourself another 5000 unit off eBay or a 6000 unit and have 7 cds.
>>(Or even a 6006 and have 12 cds!!)
Its BBC R4 & R5 plus especiallly TA, as I do not have any other traffic aids, that I need. As I said the tape unit makes it far less attractive to the low life.
If serious traffic problems occur, SWMBO CAN read maps so given TA we use white roads to good advantage. I need my TA back.
Thanks Adam.
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An old Panasonic unit of mine kept losing its code; I eventually traced the source to a poor earth that would make and break during driving. Solved by running a new earth lead to a new earthing point.
If you can establish which pin is what for the multiblock connector that I guess is used, as appropriate try running new switched live, unswitched live, and earth leads. Even if only done temporarily (with the unit sitting in the passenger footwell and speakers unconnected) it will confirm if dodgy wiring is the cause.
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Exactly. I'd be looking for a poor earth, and/or maybe a loose multiway connector in the back of the unit? You haven't had the set out for any reason have you, and didn't push the connector home fully?
El Dingo.
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Thanks for ideas. I did have the unit out some months ago but did not unplug it.
I was getting access to fit a phone bracket with secret fixing.
I have the extractor tools so I will give it a go.
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If the wiring is original Ford and has not been "got at", It is likely to be above suspicion. It is worth checking that the plug is properly clipped into the back of the set. Another point, check that the set has both supplies, it will have a feed through the ignition and one permanent live feed. Also, make sure the remove panel on the front is not loose. Last, but not least, how are you entering the code? Report back describing how you are putting in the code. (On some sets it is possible to get into a "test mode" by holding down buttons, this gives the impression that the code being applied is correct, when it is not. After a time out, the set asks again for the correct
code). Have you ever had to apply the code you have and the set worked?
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Another point, check that the set has both supplies, it will have a feed through the ignition and one permanent live feed
Err, didn't I already say that? ;-)
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If the wiring is original Ford and has not been "got at", It is likely to be above suspicion.
It appears to be original but there has been a mobile phone installed at some time but all the kit has been removed.
>>It is worth checking that the plug is properly clipped into the back of the set.
This will be first on list
Another point, check that the set has both supplies, it will have a feed through the ignition and one permanent live feed.
Also thanks to SjB for this point.
I had not thought about this
>>Also, make sure the remove panel on the front is not loose.
Seems to be OK
>>Last, but not least, how are you entering the code?
>>Report back describing how you are putting in the code.
>>Have you ever had to apply the code you have and the set worked?
I am inputting the code as per instructions. 1st digit tapped in on preset button 1, 2nd on 2 ... then hit button 5
This works OK most times.
The more times I am forced to do it the shorter the elapsed working time is. Eventually all I get is C O D E displayed and it will no act on a valid code input.
Certainly after this sequence It will accept the code the next morning.
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OK, you seem to be putting the code in correctly. I have to admit this is a puzzle. You seem to have a strange corruption of the normal operation, it makes no sense. One last idea... try removing the set from power (unplug) and leave a short time before reconnecting and applying the code. This will eliminate any form of "crashed" state of the set computer. If this doesn't work try contacting this company (Joule Electronics) on:
technical@elecsys.com
This company are experts at coding faults on car audio.
Hope this helps
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Is this amnesia transmittable?
Or has Murphy been spreading seasonal good will?
I have TWO sets of extractor tools........somewhere!!!!
I will report back when I can make progress.
Thanks all.
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I have TWO sets of extractor tools........somewhere!!!! I will report back when I can make progress. Thanks all.
Assuming they are the prong thingies, for a Ford 5000, I simply chopped up a wire coat hanger from the dry cleaners with a pair of side cutters the last time I needed to whip a head unit out. Worked a treat. so long as I kept them under pressure and did one side at a time. Easy peasy.
Good luck anyway henry k!
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SjB
Prong thingies problem has been solved. Thanks.
The wiring, I guess when a phone kit was in place, has had a wire spliced in to each of three existing wires. i.e. appeared to be Te-ed off the existing loom.
Each of the the joints are soldered, look good, each with a tiny snipped off leg but all insulated. I do not think this would cause a problem.
I unplugged all connectors and they look clean.
I now realise I did not pull out the blade fuse in the associated holder in case it was tarnished.
I now await my next non shopping trip to see if the fault has gone away.
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You said this happens during a drive,not after engine has been shut off/restarted.if your permanent 12v supply is fine/earth supply, suggests the radio supply to memory is at fault?
--
Steve
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You said this happens during a drive,not after engine has been shut off/restarted.
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Yes. I unplugged all connectors this afternoon. Replugged, re-input code and all OK. Have not started engine but just rechecked and as expected, several hours later, all working OK.
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>>if your permanent 12v supply is fine/earth supply, suggests the radio supply to memory is at fault?
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That seems to be my present thoughts or.... there is some breakdown as it "warms up". I am not using the tape or the 6 X CD changer that is under the seat.
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Reporting back.
Just returned after a long trip and the radio worked all the time.
So at present I can only put the problem down to a less than perfect connection in one of the plugs.
Just unplugging and replugging seems to have removed the poor connection.
Thanks again to all.
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