If the bore size of the new callipers are larger than the originals, then the brake will have more travel.
This said it should not be as far as you are describing. Did all of the brake fuid run out when the new parts where fitted? And, does the car have ABS?
If the answer to both of the above is yes, then it is probable that you still have air in the system. It may be worth tying to bleed the system from the pipes on the master cylinder, (be carefull of the paint work!) and then ABS unit, n/s/r, o/s/r, n/s/f and then o/s/f brakes. (be sure to have the load valve, if fitted, under load.)
Regards Tony
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Master cylinders can suddenly develop internal leakage causing exactly your symptoms when other unrelated work is done.
The reason is either pressing in the caliper pistons to insert new pads, which sends old fluid back up into the MC, or else the act of enthusistic bleeding pushing the MC piston and seals down over an unused section of bore. If this is quite old then it can have dirt or surface rust which immediately wrecks the internal seals.
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okay i borrowed a elec operated pressure bleeder from a garage today, alot more air came out and its safe to drive now
although i feel it could be better
anyone had agro with a easybleed before?? this elec version done it in minutes
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I've never used eezibleed before, but maybe the fluid's being pushed too slowly through the pipes to apply adequate swirl which would drive out air from nucks and crannies in the calipers?
On that note I'll continue to use my sister/friend/parent as a pedal pumper.
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Mike Farrow
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i might look into one of those vacuum bleeders, cant be done with hassle over bleeding brakes
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If the electric bleeder was pressurising the fluid from the reservoir cap, then these are much better than easy bleeders, and vacuum bleeders.
The next time you break into the hydraulic circuit get a rod to keep the brake peddal depressed. This will then stop all the flid from running out, and will not damage the hoses. (As pipe clamps can do.) You will then find it much easyer to bleed the system after. it is vital however that you open the blled screw fully, before retracting the calliper pistons.
Regards Tony
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it is vital howeverthat you open the bleed screw fully, before retracting the calliper pistons.
Exactly. That's so that you don't pump old fluid back up into the Master cylinder.
Another tip is to plug the disconnected pipe straight away, eg with a tapered bit of wood. It is always worth bench-bleeding any new component first with a syringe. That way you can jiggle it so that all the air rises to the filler hole. Plug the pipe connection temporarily, eg with your finger, and reconnect but leave the connection a bit loose. Press the pedal gently, to let any air out at the connection, like bleeding a domestic radiator, and then tighten. With luck you never let any air in, so don't actually have to re-bleed at all.
I've done master cylinders, calipers and flexible hoses that way, and it avoids all the trouble with "difficult bleeders".
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If you want a much better way to seal off the end of a brake pipe, use a small peice of vacuum tubing, pushed over the pipe, and sealed, the other end with a PK screw. Much better than pushing shards of wood into the brake pipe.
But with the peddal down a 1/4, the fluid will not drain out anyway.
Regards Tony
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Steve,when you put new brakes on a Golf , you have to adjust the piston to a given dimension,it is all explained in an Haynes manual,HTH Burman
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Good point Tony. I'll do that next time. Thanks!
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The best plug for brake pipes is a plastic golf tee! I always keep a selection to hand, soft plastic, nice taper!
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pmh (was peter)
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