I have just been under my recently purchased 1998 Saab 9-3 2.0l attempting to remove the sump plug to drain the oil for a 5000 mile change. Unfortunately some idiot in the garage which serviced it last has either enormously overtighted the plug (it is steel going into an alloy sump) with a large breaker bar or they have stuck it in with some kind of threadlock type compound having maybe wrecked the thread. Even more unfortunately the garage I bought it from is nearly 500 miles from where I live (remote scotland). Last time I buy a car without examining it myself.
Even worse the plug was already damaged before I had a go at it
Whoever serviced it at deleted might want to practice tightening bolts before they cause too many of their customers this infuriating problem. Also, the plug is a 1/2" imperial size rather than 13mm which is probably how a previous numpty rounded the corners on the plug.
Any ideas on how to remove it apart from brute force, heat, tight hexagonal impact sockets, a quality pair of large molegrip type pliers (an excellent & very aggressive Teng Tools pair), release oil and a lot of swearing (all of which have failed) before resorting to stud extractors?
(yes I do have a replacement plug - must be the world's most expensive short bolt from a Saab main dealer - £8.85 inc. a new copper washer)
{Garage details removed. No naming/shaming - thankyou. DD - Moderator}
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What about those spanners/sockets specially made for damaged bolts ?
If you think the bolt was expensive have you asked for a price on a new sump ?
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Sounds like you may well damage the sump thread if you do manage to remove it. I bet that sump costs about £200!
You could 'let sleeping dogs lie' and leave it. Buy a £60 'topside' oil extractor and drain the oil through the dipstick hole. This might be the cheapest option.......
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Give it some brute force, and if it is cross theraded or bonded in, it should cost about £30 for an engineer to retap and insert a helicoil that matches your new plug. If you have no joy finding an engineer, try classic car restorers or agricultural machinery maintenance people, you can hopefully find a mobile workman.
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Thanks for the replies. Anyone know which manufacturers supply sockets made specifically for damaged nuts?
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Slightly off thread; I have just come back from a trip to Skye and was amazed at the number of really old SAABs around in the North West. More to the point, the garage from which I hired my very expensive Corsa had what looked like a pretty comprehensive machine shop! Obviously you know your area but the suggestion that some garage could get the plug out and Helicoil the damaged thread would seem to be a good bet. There are so few main agents around I bet the local garages have to be very good old fashioned fitters and mechanics.
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Hiya Ken.
There's really only one way to do this job properly.
You should unbolt the sump and take it to your workbench.
Then you can get some heat and proper tooling around the remains of the bolt.
If it's an alloy sump and a steel bolt, you'll just need to be careful that you don't destroy the sump threads.
I'd try and mount the unit on a bench vice, by tightening the jaws onto the bolt. Once you have it secured, you can hold the edges of the sump and try and undo it. You'd be amazed at how many very stubborn bolts respond to this. If you're feeling particularly persuasive, put some PlusGas penetrating oil into the sump and let it percolate overnight, then undo it in the morning.
Good luck,
Sean
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You could try a Metrinch socket and a long extension bar (simple hollow metal tube) on your wrench. See them at www.frost.co.uk/ Not sure if you can easily buy individual sockets though.
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First thing is that it is probably a job best tackled by a more reliable small garage. You will never do it on your driveway, the best bet is to take it to the garage. They can work on it on a hydraulic lift and most importantly get the right angle on the nut to avoid further rounding. They will most probably use a hammer and cold chisel, but rest assured this will not necessarily cause any damage - I speak from personal experience on a 9-5.
Secondly, use a new washer EVERY TIME you change the oil - and keep a spare sump nut. One of the reasons they overtighten is due to reusing an old washer, meaning that it will only seal if really grauched down.
Thirdly, when this unfortunate saga is over, get a half-inch socket with six sides rather than 12 ready for next time.
Lastly, when you do the job next time, make sure you get the car far enough off the ground to get a good clean turn on the sump plug, so that the socket is on perfectly square - even if it's a bit tight, it dramatically reduces the chances of rounding.
BTW, if you look at this link, you can get the sump plug and washer for £2.55, and a genuine Saab filter for £5.65....
www.elkparts.co.uk/product_info.php/products_id/16...b
HTH
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Oil is often sucked out now - the garage where you got the car might have done this, so it coild be someone else's fault.
Pump here: seamarknunn.co.uk/catalog/items/item2518.htm
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I wouldn't use any garage that just sucked the oil out...:-)
It might not have been the garage you think that perhaps overtightened the plug, could have been a fast-fit type etc.
By the way, do you really believe you would have spotted this problem even if you had examined the vehicle from top to bottom and sideways before buying it?
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What\'s for you won\'t pass you by
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I wouldn't use any garage that just sucked the oil out...:-)
That'd be any Merc dealer then!
Not that I approve using a topsider - I still like to drain from beneath.
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>> I wouldn't use any garage that just sucked the oil out...:-) >> That'd be any Merc dealer then! Not that I approve using a topsider - I still like to drain from beneath.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but my understanding is that most of the glass palace type main dealers, and many fast-fit places, suck the oil out now (using air-line powered vacuum equip).
I wonder if they still put a sump plug washer on the invoice, though :-)
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I agree with Sean, it'll be a lot easier to sort out if you have the sump on a bench in your garage/shed/kitchen. Will be fairly interesting removing the sump without being able to drain the oil though!
If I couldn't move it with any socket / spanner / mole wrench, then my strategy would be to take the bolt head off with the angle grinder and then drill the bolt before using a stud extractor.
But if you don't fancy the hassle, your best bet is to nip along to your local small independent garage and ask them to "get that out for us please mate". Make sure you take a new bolt and washer.
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Thanks for the links & suggestions. It is going into an good independent garage in the morning to see what they make of it.
Great car part from this problem though - no timing chain noise (at 70000 miles) and it feels and drives like a brand new car.
It did replace a 163000 mile fifteen year old Volvo 240GLT saloon though so my impression of it is bound to be a bit skewed. The only thing I ever had any bother getting undone on the old tank was one of the bleed nipples on a front caliper.
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For future reference, make a note of this link - could save your car's life!
www.saabscene.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=forum...0
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Hi,
There is possibly another way round this provided the head of the sump plug is flat (does not have an allen key insert in it).
I have done this before with 100% success.
Youcan drill a small hole through the centre to let the oil out. Then using an appropriate sized drill, drill the hole larger. You can then tap threads into the sump plug. Fit a bolt appropriate to the thread you've just cut with a copper washe from any motorist shop. Cost is the price of a tap, bolt and correct sized drillbit. All available from someone like toolmaster. A bolt you can get anywhere.
If you are brave enough to do this it can be done with ease and cost less than a tenner.
Hope this helps.
--
These are the views of Robin the Technician with 35 years in the trade. I fix, therefore I am...
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Got my car back this afternoon with the plug replaced.
The mechanic who worked on it said he had to heat it & cool it right down before it would shift. It wouldn't budge with a chisel at all but eventually released without destroying the thread. He said he spent about two hours getting it to move - I'm not sure I believe that but it saved me a lot of hassle so I'm not complaining.
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Having dealt with similar plugs, I can well believe it took 2hrs to shift - to avoid damage to the expensive engine oil sump.
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groups.msn.com/honestjohn - Pictures say a thousand words.....
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Have you tried a good quality stilson wrench? If the head is rounded get extra grip by closing the wrench slightly too far and tap it into place. This always works for me if you damage the thread use a thread restorer (very similar to a tap but tends to push what is left of the old thread back into shape not try to cut a new one)
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Ahh... I remember the same problem on a fine Skoda Rapide. A scissor jack, sawn off cross brace and a jack handle sorted it out. After about two hours...
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