I am in the market for a new car and have had my fancy taken by an imported FTO (direct from Japan) does anyone have any comments or suggestions to make about this car?
Cheers
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A guy at work had one. Loads of fun but spares were a nightmare. Finding out that the spares were available from the US rather than simply Japan helped, but still a nightmare.
I can't remember how long the car was off the road for an exhaust system, but I know he got pretty bad tempered about it.
On the other hand, it was lots of fun when it was working, and mostly reliable as I recall.
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My Psychology teacher had an M reg one. Then he sold it and bought an S reg one.
Says it all really.
--
Adam
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Do I remember correctly that some have an ecu problem ? Make sure that an test drive lasts a reasonable time, because something can cause them to cut out when hot after 30 min or so of driving. Expensive fix apparently
I am sure someone can confirm the details.
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Odd that FTO spares were sourced from the US as this model was never sold there and grey market imports in the US are very rare. I imagine non-model specific engine parts might be available if they were shared with other Misubishi models sold in the US.
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That might be it - as it happens it was engine parts. I assumed that they were available there, but as you say it may well have been that the engine was used in something else.
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I think the Eclipse and the FTO share a common engine in some build specs. The Eclipse was available in the US.
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I have insepcted FTO's for a couple of people and also done repairs on one or two. They are basically very good cars, although in common with all Mitsubishis the spares are dear.
There are three models:
GS - 1.8 4-cylinder engine - avoid.
GR - 2.0 V6 engine shared with the Galant V6 - the best one IMHO (they are ultra-ultra-reliable).
GPX - 2.0 V6 with 'MIVEC' (electronic variable valve timing) - 20bhp more than the GR but less reliable and much more complicated - extra power only comes in above 6000rpm!!.
The best one to go for IMHO is the GR with manual transmission (a lot are tiptronic auto's - you lose 30bhp in the gearbox and they are a very complex 'box if they go wrong). The GPX has theorectically a bit more power, but only if you continually have the engine screaming at the red line (which most folks don't).
The 5-speed box is the same one as used in the Carisma, Space Runner etc. - can be notchy and awkward if you don't use the correct oil in it (most will have the *wrong* oil in). Post again if you want the oil details. On these 'boxes there is a big ratio gap between 1st and 2nd gear, which I find a bit disconcerting - although to be honest the engine is so perful and flexible you hardly need 1st!.
Parts are all available from Mitsi in the UK, but can be expensive. Mitsi's spare parts pricing in general is crazy. There are plenty of specialists for major items, but service items are pretty cheap.
You can get a full stainless exhaust for about £250-300; oil filter is about £6; air filter £10 - all off the shelf. It uses a cambelt which costs about £100 (with tensioner kit) and another £100 for an independent to fit. Virtually all running parts are available cheaply from Camskill:
www.camskill.co.uk
Body panels are the main problem, Mitsi have them but they are dear (I think a bonnet is about £350, a wing about £200).
Handling is very very good IMHO and you would hardly know that its a high-power FWD car - goes around bends astonishingly well and really looks the part. Headlights are very poor - but you might be able to upgrade the bulbs. £5k will get you a good one - which is great value really.
Car is designed to be lightweight and some of the trim is a bit flimsy. Front seats I find very comfortable and steering is nice and direct. Very little soundproofing so can be noisy on a coarse road.
If you buy a Jap import it will be pretty-much rust free, so the first thing you need to do is *underseal it properly* - this means using a proper underbody coating and wax injecting the chassis legs etc. Some dealers with have you believe that a blast of waxoyl over the underside is "undersealing" - its not - you need a proper steam clean and a full day spent doing the wax spraying - budget £200 for that. Original paintwork was a bit thin - so don't be surprised if cars you look at all seem to have had some respray work. Avoid dark colours (black, blue, burgandy) - those seem to rust across the roof where the spot-welds on the roof braces are - look for little blisters across the roof). You'll also need a Cat 1 alarm system (budget £300 for that).
All in all a highly reliable car that is fun and practical to own. It is probably the No.1 cheap small sports car. The MX5 is also nice, but has a slightly 'girly' image and I find them too small for my muscle-bound 6'4" frame - the FTO is rather roomier inside.
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Aprilia,
I have said this before but its worth saying again I am truely amazed at your incredible level of automotive knowledge.
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LOL! The sign of a mis-spent youth (and middle age come to that).
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Whilst we've got you on the subject - what are your views on the supra.
I don't know if its wishful thinking, but I am trying to find a good Twin turbo manual (uk if possible - but only 640 made!).
Whar your views/ advice on these. Although the looks are a bit cheesy - I think its a very good car - excellent handiling - fast, reilable.
I know the uk ones had 321 hp - steel turbos - larger injectors.
Jap ones had Cermaic turbos, smaller injectors - rated at 276 hp - but in reality had about 300.
What to look out for? A lot of these have been modded (engine) - whilst I don't mind this as such - I would prefer one with an uprated clutch - most jap imported ones - seem to have this.
Unless I'am very lucky - I don'th think I'll find a uk spec twin turbo manual. These always command a premium - but worried about jap sepc parts - and hassle of undersealing - etc..
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I'm not really an expert on these apart from the fact they're quick and in my opinion are just like a capri on steroids!
As far as i'm aware there is little problem with parts (apart from the price!) our parts department regularly get parts in a for a modded twin turbo supra along with a glanza/starlet turbo and a mk1 MR2 Supercharger.
For uprated parts somewhere like Fensport can probably sort out virtually anything you could ever dream of
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And still a very good looking set of wheels.
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Supra TT is a very rugged and reliable car. Unless you do serious engine mods to push the power to 400BHP+ then you are not going to wear out the transmission, suspension etc.
Most Jap imports seem to be modified - there is almost no suchthing as a 'standard' JDM car. Favourite mods are raising the boost pressure, fitting EBC and running the turbos in parallel so both are on all the time (rather than sequential). Turbo timer is a good idea too....
Check out insurance before you buy a modded car!
Really the only bit that is going to wear out quick is the clutch. Some people fit lightened flywheels - but I'm not keen on them. I really don't see much advantage and you feed more vibration through into the expensive gearbox.
All Supra parts are expensive, thanks to Toyota (UK) parts pricing policy - even a titchy little pair of Corolla brake discs cost about £140!! I simply cannot understand their mentality. There are people who will import parts from overseas for you at considerable saving.
Undersealing a Jap import is not really a major hassle - just find the right company to do it and leave it with them for a couple of days to do the job properly. Don't forget a Cat 1 alarm and (probably) a tracker.
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Aprilia could I trouble you for the gearbox oil details. My 5speed gearbox is Mitsubishi and can be very notchy (although it could be syncromesh not doing it's job) but worth a try. Thanks.
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Aprilia could I trouble you for the gearbox oil details. My 5speed gearbox is Mitsubishi and can be very notchy (although it could be syncromesh not doing it's job) but worth a try. Thanks.
OK.
First of all, forget oil weighting (i.e. 75W-90 etc.). You need to work in terms of 'kinematic viscosity' - this is measured in Stokes, or more usually (since a Stoke is very big) in centiStokes - or cSt. Furthermore, kinematic viscosity is normally quoted at two temperatures, 40 deg.C and 100 deg.C.
I have long since discovered that, due to fine synchro tolerances, most Japanese gearboxes are notchy unless given an oil of 12cSt@100 deg.C or thinner. Anything less than 10cSt is probably too thin to give adequate gear protection.
Thicker oils (most 75W-90's are 15cSt) tend to give a 'squeeze film' problem on the synchro cones - i.e. the oil is too thick and can't get out of the way quickly enough as you change gear, making the 'box notchy.
In addition to viscosity, specialist manual transmission oils have friction modifiers (additives which help the synchro to lock) and these are important too.
Basically what you need to do is seek out an oil which has a viscosity of 10-12cSt at 100deg.C. This will typically be a 75W-80 or 75W-85 GL-4 rated oil (do not use GL-5).
You could try:
Castrol SMX-S 75W-85
Castrol VMX-M (the optimum, if you can find it in the UK - I can't).
Straight Redline MTL - although its a little on the thin side.
A 50:50 mixture of Redline MTL and MT90.
Valvoline 75W-85 GL-4
I am currently awaiting some oil from the US that *should* be just about the optimum for Nissan/Mitsi 'boxes (its an 11cSt GL-4 oil with heavy friction mod additives) and I'll post details if it does the trick.
With any of these oils you need to drive the car about 100+ miles before making judgement. It takes time and some thermal/pressure cycles before the new additive pack attaches to the synchos.
On most FWD Mitsi's the shift mechanism is via two cables. You need to check the cable ends at the gearbox to see that the rubber bushes are in good shape. Also the cable outer is located via a bracket on the gearbox. The bracket has rubber isolation pads that can deteriorate and that really degrades the gearshift - new brackets are not too dear (about £15+VAT).
Above all, remember that Mitsi gearboxes are not the fastest changing in the world, so don't rush a change when the box is cold. Pause a moment in neautral - and always make sure your clutch pedal is pushed well down so the clutch is not dragging.
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It could be worth looking on the FTO Owners Club website, which is at www.mitsubishi-fto.net
I have a Mitsubishi Legnum (Galant Estate) VR-4, and I have found being a member of Club VR4 has been very worthwhile, with good advice always available. I'm sure the FTO club is the same.
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Aprilia Thanks for that info. Very useful. Yes when cold I have to double declutch 1st-2nd and the same goes for changing down. 2nd to 3rd has to be taken slowly as it is not a fast box as you say. Although the clutch bites early I don't think it is dragging and I always match my revs (old school) to avoid punishing the syncro. I will check out the oil. Cheers.
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