The old "pork pie", a J-reg. Cavalier 1.6 petrol saloon, failed the MOT test - the nearside handbrake wasn't working. I have replaced the rear drums and shoes, both sides, with new ones.
I have adjusted the self-adjusters. The n/s brake locks on a gravel track at low speed, the o/s one does not - it still comes on though. What can I do to balance the braking effort?
I need an MOT most urgently!
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Handbrake cable...????
--
RichardW
Is it illogical? It must be Citroen....
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Somewhere under the car in the middle will be a junction where the handbrake cable divides to activate each wheel. There will be some sort of compensating device to ensure both sides are pulled at the same time. Probably a pulley. This is probably jammed due to muck and ancient grease etc. Give it all a clean and re-grease. Hopefully you will then start pulling both sides.
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Somewhere under the car in the middle will be a junction where the handbrake cable divides to activate each wheel. There will be some sort of compensating device....
Not on the Cavalier. One long cable goes from the handbrake lever directly to one hub, and a shorter cable is bonded midway along the longer cable to the other hub. The action of the longer cable tightening, then tightens the shorter cable.
The handbrake cable goes through some nylon guides which are situated on the suspension arms. If one or both guides are worn, or the cable is frayed where it goes through these guides, then this can snag up and cause handbrake problems.
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Dynamic Dave wrote:
> The handbrake cable goes through some nylon guides which are
> situated on the suspension arms. If one or both guides are
> worn, or the cable is frayed where it goes through these
> guides, then this can snag up and cause handbrake problems.
Ooo! Oo! The cable is a little frayed where it goes through
the guide on the offside.... I will check the guide, and
scuttle scuttle off to buy a new cable! Thank you
Great Oracle I will let you know!
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The cable is a little frayed where it goes through the guide on the offside....
I'm surprised the tester didn't fail it on a frayed cable.
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As yours has just "almost" passed an MOT it should be OK but have a look at the first cable guide back from the handbrake. On my Cavalier this had almost completely pulled off the metal where the floor pan had split probably due to a combination of thin metal and metal fatigue. Handbrake worked but weakly on the short side mentioned by DD.
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Dynamic Dave wrote:
> oldbanger wrote:
> > The cable is a little frayed where it goes through the
> > guide on the offside....
>
> I'm surprised the tester didn't fail it on a frayed cable.
Thank you for your help, the cause was a frayed handbrake
cable "sticking" on the eyes on the suspension arm. I now
have an MOT test certificate. Not sure the n/s rear wheel
bearing should have play in it, though!
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Not sure the n/s rear wheel bearing should have play in it, though!
Depends how much. They need a small amount of free play.
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>> Not sure the n/s rear wheel bearing should have play in it, though! Depends how much. They need a small amount of free play.
Um, I thought they were ball bearings? Dunno about cars, but
motorbike wheels on ball bearings fail if there's any rim rock,
but with taper roller bearings there must be just perceptible
movement at the rim. Mind you, not many testers know about
TR bearings, these daze, let alone lipped rollers and so forth.
The (possible) play in this bearing is evinced by enough rim
rock to feel quite easily! Maybe 3/64" (~1mm).
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Um, I thought they were ball bearings?
Depends on the age of the Cavalier. Up until 1992 or possibly early 1993 they were taper roller bearings in the rear hub. Easiest way to tell is to pop the centre cover plate off the wheel and look at the hub. If it's got a pressed tin removable cover in the centre of the hub, it'll be taper roller. However, if it looks solid, it'll be ball bearings.
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