I have a toyota carina 2.0, 1992 and J registration. It has 30,000 miles on the clock.
I was driving from London to Brighton on gas (lpg) and it behaved well all the way home. However, whilst accelerating hard (3000 rpm) up the last stretch of hill after the end of the A23, I depressed the accelerator and the car stalled.
I stopped the car (going up hill) and tried restarting it. It would not start on petrol or gas (using the switch), but after a few attempts it started.
This has never happened before. It happened 3 days ago and since I have travelled 200 miles without a problem.
Can anyone tell me what the problem may be. The rev counter sits at 900 rpm on gas and petrol, and the car was fully warmed up when this happened.
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What could have caused the above? I thinking an injector problem, spark problem or fueling problem somewhere>
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?Please reply. Any reply or advice or long shots would be really helpful!!!
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The lambda sensor can be dodgy on these, though don't know if this would cause car to stall like you say. Its possible to see if any fault 'flash' codes are logged. Your hand book, or a haynes manual will show you how to do this. The 3S-FE engine in your car though is usually very reliable! If you dont want to try this, and you dont know the last time any of the filters, plugs, etc were changed, then change them and see!
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I changed the air filter recently. The plugs are fine as well. Would worn plugs cause it to stall? Would it also have a hard time starting?
Also, do these engines have lambda sensors. I am sure that only the 1.8 litre carina has these?
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If its got a catalyst it will have a lambda sensor, otherwise no. If youre not absolutely sure about the plugs, change them, making sure gap is set right etc. Also, if the plug leads are original, they might be starting to break down, with possible arcing. A splash of injector cleaner wont do any harm either!
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A good thing to do is to look under the bonnet at night when the engine is running to see if anything is arcing. DONT TOUCH THOUGH!
As sprice says, some injector cleaner will help. I think VW stuff is some of the best. Search for a post by Roger Jones on this site as he often quotes the VW part number.
Check distributer and rotor arm for wear and tear. Check plugs for gap and condition and HT leads for splits. The HT leads often start to deteriorate where they fit onto the spark plug.
Does it run ok usually?
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It runs fine otherwise. It does lack power however when the engine is cold and during our cold weather . When warmed up it is fine.
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It does lack power however when the engine is cold and during our cold weather . When warmed up it is fine.
Some cars have an automatic flap that decides where it gets it's airflow for the the engine from. Some have a manual lever. If it's cold out, then it picks up warm air in the form of heat given off from the exhaust downpipes. If it's warm out, then it'll pick it up from the front of the car.
If the engine is pulling in cold air, then that air could freeze. Called 'carb icing' - which can also happen with modern injection systems as well as carbs.
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You've all missed the point that he is on LPG (autogas).
If the car lacks power when cold this could be a problem with the vapouriser. Is the vapouriser plumbed in properly (i.e. is it in series with the heater flow, rather than in parallel)? This would account for your problem, as would some sort of restriction in the flow.
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