The problem I'm having is that you switch the ignition on and all the lights come on but when the yellow light goes out and you turn the key again to start the car its dead, the engine doesn't even turn over there's just a click. the radio, lights etc still work and the battery isn't flat. Sometimes after several attempts it will start, other times it needs to be kick started and sometimes it will start after 30 minutes to an hour (admittedly sometimes its been days later).
When the engine does turn over the car starts first time you don't have to turn the engine over for any lenght of time before it fires. Its had a new starter motor (needed according to the AA), battery (the autoelectrian's advice)and alternator (garage's advice)and I've still got the same problem.
The above people are saying its a faulty new starter motor, faulty new battery (I haven't bothered taking back to the garage).
Anyone who knows what's wrong with it please share the information with me - its a mystery I'm now getting bored with. Being stranded in car parks isn't my favourite pastime.
Thanks for reading. Pam
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You need to get a meter or bulb connected to the pre-engage starter solenoid to see if it is getting the feed from the ignition switch in the cranging position.. It the light comes on but the car does not start it is a faulty starter, a fractured earth strap or a faulty ignition switch, seen that a few times on this make/model. Good Luck. Regards Peter
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Check the leads. Trying to start an engine puts a fair amount of power through everything.
A connection on the battery leads which was quite capable of managing the lights might completely lose it over powering the starter motor.
The two battery connections and the two starter motor connections would be a good bet.
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I would take it back to garage that did the job. From what you said sounds like Solenoid fault ie its not making the connection to motor..could be wrong. but it does sound like it?
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Steve
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Sorry, but was the starter replaced for a similar problem?
Good advice to start from basics, checking the battery with a load tester, then all the leads to battery and earth, cleaning if any doubt. If OK, then you need to see if the starter will work on its own. Not the thing to do if you are not very sure of what you are doing, but requires feed to starter solenoid to be linked to live terminal on battery.
If starter doesn't operate, then time to take it back. If it does, then perhaps a fault in the ignition switch, feed to it, or from it to solenoid. You can link each one out with a suitably fused piece of cable
I had a similar fault on my 405 for several years, which wouldn't operate the starter when hot. After numerous attempts to find it (fault would disappear whilst I was fault finding) and changing starter, ignition switch etc, I finally linked output from ignition switch direct to solenoid, and no problems since (touching wood)
As I said, only if you are sure of what you are doing, and using a fused cable link
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Thanks all for responding.
It has always been the same problem, everything has been replaced in an attempt to solve the problem. The old starter motor was tested after it was removed and it happened again and it worked fine, battery and leads have also been checked along with the earths.
It's always not started if the engine was hot (if I'd been on the motorway for a long time) but would start after about 5 - 10 minutes but the problem just got worse. I started having trouble during the summer on hot days when the car had been on the car park all day but it got to the point where it wouldn't start on a cold morning either.
Anyway i haven't checked my solenoids so i'll get them checked out as soon as I can - don't fancy playing with live wires myself so I'll have to book it somewhere.
Thanks again
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just try with the ignition on ( next time it act up) put a screw driver across the solenoid terminals....yes it will spark but it wont bite...the engine should turn over....if not check you have power to the solenoid from both ignition and big lead to battery........good luck..
cheers
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Now I am a complete amateur with regard to this but... if starter has been replaced and found to be good, and since the solenoid is an integral part of the starter (I think?? isn't it that lump on top of the starter??) then this suggests that it is not the starter but something between the ignition switch and the solenoid???? Is there a faulty relay??? Or wiring?? Or ignition switch?? I had a similar problem on a very old BX which would start when cold or very hot but wouldn't if left for 20 mins. 30 mins it started. In the end I bought a "Remota start" which clipped onto the starter connections and when the trigger was pulled it always started first time. I concluded that it was the ignition switch but since I was getting rid of the car I didn't investigate further
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Personally I think it is an ignition switch/wiring fault - this is backed up by it being temperature-related, too.
It's a job for someone with some noggin about them - I'd happily have a look for you but I bet you're at the other end of the country!
Accessing the starter on these TUD engines isn't easy - there is no way of shorting the solenoid terminals out with a spanner!
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groups.msn.com/honestjohn - Pictures say a thousand words.....
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Since you can hear a click when turning the key, I assume that is the starter solenoid clicking. I think you should have a good look at the earthing connections from battery to car body, and from car body to gearbox. Make sure the cables are sound, and there is no rust/corrosion where they bolt on. Not forgetting of course to check their tightness. Also, as mentioned before, check the battery terminals for corrosion and tightness.
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Maybe the clicking is indeed the starter relay (if there is one) working, but there is a fault on the switched contacts. Where is the clicking noise coming from?
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I would go along with DL. Ignition switch/wiring prob. all other possibles seem to have been looked at
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Steve
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