HI,
Some may remember that I recently bought a high mileage (now 198,000) 75 for a low price, glad it was low as yesterday I experienced my first problem.
I went to start up and all I got was a clicking noise coming from the engine bay. I rang my breakdown cover and they thought it was the battery so tried to start it using jump leads...no luck.
Next they diagnosed the starter motor sticking, so pushed it down the hill and bump started it (wasnt very happy about this as I cant see catalysts being cheap), and it eventually started. They then revved the engine to 4000 revs from cold (making me even more unhappy) and then turned it off, failed to start and then did the same again.
I had to leave the engine running for an hr whilst I found a garage and then drove about 15miles. I got to the garage and tried to restart the car - started first time!!
The garage has just rang me this morning saying it started first time from cold and cant find a problem.
Does anyone have any ideas as to what it might be...i've got about 1000 miles to do next week and cant afford for it to let me down altogether.
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Hi, Just read your posted e-mail, my father has got a Rover 75
he has just rectified the problem, it used to give the symtems of a flat battery, some times it would start, some times it would just die on him when he was driving it, not much fun when its power steering and it stalls half way round a corner.
He took it to two Rover Dealers and guess what!!! they couldnt find anything wrong. Me and my Father are both in the Motor Trade albeit on the body work side and Insurance.
We asked around the trade and found, a guy who is a one man band but is pink fluffy dice hot on electrics, he described to us what the car was doing over the phone, and he was spot on.
The cause is a common fault with the 75 althogh the dealers dont seem to know this. The ECU ( Electronic Control System ) which is the Brain of the car is situated under the bonnet to the rear under the plastic scuttle panel, were the wipwrs are,
if you stand at the front of the car so the drivers side is on your left, the ECU is in the top right hand side under the black plastic trim, because it is in a stupid place,and right next to the cars drain holes, leaves and dirt block the whole and the water does not drain away that quick, hence the ECU gets damp, we were lucky and the guy managed to remove it and un- block the drain hole and dry out the ECU, it depends how bad yours is, in some cases it may need a new one.
Hope this helps
Thanks Duke
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Great reply Duke - this problem has been going on for ages.
Cutting the tip off the drain tube stops the tube from becoming blocked - this should stop any further reoccurances of the problem.
I reckon the thread originators problem lies either in the starter motor or it's associated wiring. A thorough check of all connections (including the battery terminals!) and earth straps is a good place to start.
Otherwise, a little jiggery-pokery with a multimeter is in order.
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groups.msn.com/honestjohn - Pictures say a thousand words.....
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Thanks for that, but touch wood, my father hasn't had any more problems, what concerned us was that my fathers vehicle, is a 2000 W reg but has still only covered 8,900 miles, its only used as a second car, but it was obviously out of warranty.
Thanks Duke
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8900 miles from new in 2000?
That's not always a good thing you know! Chances are everything is OK but make sure the antifreeze and brake fluid is kept changed every 2/3 years.
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groups.msn.com/honestjohn - Pictures say a thousand words.....
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My bets are on the battery live and earth cables as well, sounds like classic symptoms, the click and then not enough power to turn it over. The ECU is unlikely to manifest like this.
Remove and clean the battery terminals. Remove and clean the starter motor terminals and connectors. Remove and clean the battery earth to body connector at the body end. Remove and clean the engine to body earth strap engine and body end.
It could even be a duff battery.
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Indeed RF, I agree. One other fault I have seen on some Rovers is the (v. short) lead between the solenoid and the starter motor can fail - giving these symptoms. The solenoid clicks correctly, but then the motor doesn't turn. Thankfully, it is quite cheap to mend :-)
number_cruncher
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thanks for all your suggestions, I will have a clean around tomorrow. One thing the garage noticed that I didnt was the battery indicator was black, meaning damaged cells. Think I will get the battery changed anyway for the winter and hopefully this wont happen again!!
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Hello all
Mine's an (03) MG ZTT 2.0 CDTi (Automatic), very same symptoms as described here. Currently garaged as mechanic couldn't accurately identify problem, even with one of those computer diagnostic machines hooked up. Will pass info on though and hopefully it'll be a straightforward fix? Fingers crossed eh??
Thanks to all thread contributors
Edited by KingPinn53 (Dial999) on 27/10/2015 at 08:53
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