Hi everyone,
My girlfriend's Ka today has started to over-rev for no apparent
reason.
It only happens when she depresses the clutch after selected a gear.
Does anyone have any ideas what's wrong?
Thanks.
Filed into drop down menu system 20/9/07 - PU
Edited by Webmaster on 20/07/2008 at 20:53
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Hi
Can you describe what is happing in detail?
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Hi Can you describe what is happing in detail?
I have, beleive it or not! that's it.
When she lifts the clutch back up, foot off the gas it revs on it's own!
It stops after a short while but it's definitely not right.
I can't really describe it in more detail because that's about it.
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Air leak in the inlet manifold?
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Clean or fit a new idle speed control valve.
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Thanks Dynamic Dave and jc for the replies.
She went to work this mornin in it and she say's it's fine at the moment.
All she did was squirt WD40! on something ( don't remember what exactly) and so far it's ok.
I will mention though to her about your theories.
Thanks.
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My Fiesta does that occasionally but not all the time. It was a lot better after I reset the ECU though and left it to idle for 10 minutes.
--
"Ah...beer - my only weakness - my achilles heel if you will"
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If WD40 affects it,then possibly throttle cable or linkage.
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Hi, did the WD40 treatment sort out the problem for good or has it come back? My wife's X reg Ka had the same problem for the first time the other day... every time the clutch was engaged it revved like mad for a few seconds and then it settled down. Today (2 days later) I set out to get it fixed but the problem had vanished so I took it for a good run (30 miles) and the problem just began to reappear towards the end of my journey so I tried to take it to my local Ford dealers* and they said they wanted £80 just to have a look and they wouldn't be able to do that until the middle of next week so I then took it to a smaller independent garage they said that there was no obvious fault and that something was probably clogged up or sticking and they suggested using Redex petrol supplement... I have used this and so far so good.
*You may have noticed you tripped the swear-filter by using a now replaced word. Don't !
Edited by Pugugly on 10/05/2008 at 20:53
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Check the switch above the clutch pedal. If this is misaligned or disconnected the symptoms you describe will happen.
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Only fitted on early ones.
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>Only fitted on early ones.
jc
Clutch pedal switches were fitted on Ka's built from 15.9.96 to 14.10.2002.
I am assuming the car is outside it's 3 year warranty so there should be one fitted.
Cheers
Charles
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Apologies for replying on an old link.
However, I was searching the internet for solutions to my girlfiends Ford Ka (July 1999) over-revving when the clutch is depressed and came across this link, which starts with a problem with exactly the same symptoms we are having.
With regards the clutch pedal switch solution - can anyone realign or reconnect a clutch pedel switch or does this require a mechanic if this is the problem?
Any advice will be appreciated,
Many Thanks,
Mack
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if its the same as a fiesta its push and twist,(like a light bulb)you should find it hanging down if its come out of the pedal
so easily done yourself
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if the brake light switch remedy do's not work try cleaning the earth wire that go's from the battery to the front slam panel single thin black wire held onto the slam panel with a torx's bolt ,remove clean and refit ,this has been known to make the revs hang ,
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Is it at idle - vehicle stationary (wheels not moving) or when driving during gear changes - if the latter it probably needs the three pin multiplug to the throttle plate sensor changing for the later level multiplug - available as a kit from a Ford dealer.
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Thanks for all your replies.
Going to have a look this weekend at your suggestions.
In reply to hford: the car over revs when idling/coasting/between gear changes, basically everytime the clutch is depressed after using the throttle.
Could it simply be that the throttle cable has become slack and needs tightening ?- can this occur? or would the cable ever need lubricating?
Anyway as I say I am going to investigate this weekend.
Thanks Again,
Mack
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mack7 i couldnt understand the post from hford but with hindsight i think he was trying to say road speed sensor this is attached to the cable that goes into the speedo drive on the gearbox and may well be your problem ,you can disconect it and see if it makes the running better but not if its one of the newer new ones because it might put the dash light on (im not sure).
difficult to get to because its right at the back not like the old escorts (ramps would help)
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I was trying to solve this problem for a couple of days and found what causes it. I have an 1998 fiesta with the Endura-e engine (the same is one installed in most KA cars):
- it is caused by the throttle position sensor (tps) - a small black plastic piece with a three-wire plug which is located on the back side of the throttle body.
- in my case it was not faulty because i've taken it out and measured it with an ohm-meter, nor was the connector faulty. I've read that sometimes the connector itself can fail, and that there exsists a revised one.
- it was the wrong resistance of the tps in the idle throttle position that was causing it - it seems that this is a design flaw and that TPS is set to work near the "edge" and over time when the material changes its properties this causes it to go over the ege - and overrev.
The TPS in endura-e is a potentiometer which is connected like this:
- one pin is connected to the minus (chasis)
- the second one is connected to constant 5 volt source from the ECU
- the middle pin is the slider and changes the voltage as the throttle turns. When you turn the key (give a contact) and measure the voltage between it and the chassis in idle, it has to be 0.4 V. In my case it was 0.55 V
You can adjust this sometimes by loosening the screws on the tps and moving it to the side (it has a little play)
What I did (and I don't recommend it is to solder a 5k ohm trimmer pot between the slider (middle pin) and a minus pin (the brown wire in my case) and with it I can regulate the idle voltage from 0 to 0.55 V and by experimenting i could clearly see:
- if I set it above 0.4 V it has a tendency to revv a little longer
- if I set it above 0.48V it is overevving madly
- if it's at 0.4V - its fine
Of course you shouldn't turn the trimmer too low not to short-circuit the ecu source, and if it's set too low the engine might have a tendency to stall at idle. AND NEVER DO THIS if you don't know how to fit it firmly and to insulate it properly.
First try loosening the screws (just a little) with a star screwdriver and tapping the tps so that it moves in the same direction where the throttle turns when increasing the gas. Be careful not to spray the tps with wd 40 because it will make the problem even worse (it affects it a little) and if you're removing it remember to look carefully where the axle sits in it's slot because if you mount it back just a little off it could make it worse.
PS My car is still sometimes stalling when idling, but I think, This is an another problem (with the idle air control valve)
Hrvoje
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Well I just had to sign up to the forum to let you all know this is the nuts! I had exactly this problem on the wifes car. I'm no mechanic, but I don't mind dabbling with the unknown.
So, a week or so back the wife complained that when changing gear, the car was revving high, i.e. the revs did not drop when the clutch was pressed. I firstly put it down to a jamming throttle cable, but when I checked the car when stationary it was perfect. Took it for a spin, and she was dead right, over-revving like mad.
Out came the tool box and here it goes.
1. I first removed the Inlet Control Valve to se how cruddy it was. It was a bit messy so I cleaned it through with carb cleaner hoping that would fix it. It seems this simple little job does on a lot of cars, but not ours.
2. Secondly I had read that the wiring loom to the Throttle Position Valve has a known fault and replacing it usually cures it. Went to scrappy, bought on for a fiver, soldered it on, but still did not do the trick.
3. Then I found this page talking about idle voltage on the TPS slider pin Got out the multimeter and found that at idle, without the egine running, I was reading 0.65v. Whey hey I thought! I took off the TPS, give it a good clean up, removed the brass ferules where the bolts slide through, and opened up the holes by approx 3mm. When I refit the TPS I ensured that I lowered the electricl plug end more towards the ground which I guess looking from the front of the car was a clockwise rotation by a couple of degrees. Now when I checked the idle voltage I was around 0.42v.
Took it for a spin and it again runs like a dream!
So, thanks to the forum, I saved around £25 for a new wiring harness, £45 for a new TPS, and £55 for a new ICV!
Wicked!
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Hi,
I bought a 2005 SportKA in January and it's had these symptoms on maybe 4 occasions since I bought it. It's one of those problems that you can't really take to a garage because it's so infrequent. But it does pull the car along faster than you'd like to go sometimes. Bit strange. Mine seems to do it when you start it up again after a long journey. Anyway, just wanted to say thanks for the advice, as I now feel I can point a mechanic in the right direction!
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Just found this post and read all about the Throttle Position Sensor. Put a call out to a mate to borrow an ohmeter off him, should get that tonight.
Can anyone tell me where I find this ruddy TPS? My mindset is if you can read a map and an instruction manual you can tinker with a car, but I've never had to mess around with one before!
Do I need to disconnect the battery before I start touching contacts?
TA!
Matt
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SNIPQUOTE!In reply to Wicked!
Hi mate , well ive been having this on my fiesta for a while now. Ive tried cleaning the icv, a new tps asnd a new tps wiring plug and still the same. can you explain how to test the voltage? Thanks alot
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 19/09/2008 at 19:46
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Hi....bought a 2006 Ford Ka and have been experiencing the exact same problem. The engine starts to "hunt'/ rev in neutral/when clutch depressed.
Took it to a Ford Dealer....they did a computer upgrade and recalibrated same, free of charge. This was done at a dealership in South Africa, but UK should have the same policy.
Have had no further problems with revving.
Ciao
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Hi All,
I had this problem for about 3 months and got to the point of getting dangerous , I read all these and other comments and thought wow, it could be several things, but rather fancied the disconection of the batterey which recalibrates the "computer chip" on re connection.
By co-incidence the car needed a new clutcch so I took it to a well known clutch specialist they said they would disconnect the battery while fitting the clutch.
Result - never had a problem since , so before you pay any money just disconnect the battery for half an hour then reconnect, it cost nothing and may sove you problem it did mine. Good luck.
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