Hi everyone,
We run a year 2000 Seat Toledo TDI 110 Red eye.
On driving the car today, after 4 miles, the engine suddenly lost power akin to the brakes being applied and staying on or loss of Turbo. The car was gutless but drivable. We parked up for 2 hours, came back and restarted and the car was fine. After another 4 miles the same thing happened = gutless but drivable. We parked up at a shop for 3 minutes, restarted and the car was ok. I would have expected to lose power again but we were home within minutes.
Any ideas whats causing this drastic loss of power. It only seems to happen when hot and after a restart its ok, but only for a while!
Thanks in advance.............
btw the cars done 90K
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Any warning lights? sounds like the car is going into limp home mode.
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This thread might give you some clues. I presume it's the same engine in your car.
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=5918&m...e
hope this helps
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Dieselhead,
My God, I've just trawled through the whole thread you linked me to!! It all seems to be there. Theres many people on that thread that appear to have the identical problem to me.
I'll move forward using some of that info.
Invaluable Link, many many thanks for taking the trouble putting it up here.
Cheers Dieselhead, your a star!
PS ANYONE WITH VW/ AUDI TDI POWER LOSS. READ THAT LINK!!!
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I think that thread covers just about everything, answer must be in there somewhere..
Glad to be of help, best of luck with it!
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I'd put money on it being the MAF sensor.
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groups.msn.com/honestjohn - Pictures say a thousand words.....
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A test to see if its the MAF sensor apparently is to unplug it and drive the car. If when driven hard the problem dosen't occur, that means its the MAF sensor. A side effect of a disconnected MAF sensor is smoke and heavy fuel usage apparently but the performance should be near enough ok.
Just out of interest, what makes you think its the above? Everything seems to point to a sticking wastegate component in the Turbo which happens when revved hard resulting in a fault code and limp home mode.
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It's just that every under-performing VAG DI engine I've disgnosed and fixed has been the net result of a failed MAF.
Without naming names, other marques using a similar system suffer the very same faults. There are countless manufacturuer TSB's out for this issue.
Apparently driving on motorways in rain/roadsalt is bad for MAFS - leads to a buildup on the sensor hotwire.
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groups.msn.com/honestjohn - Pictures say a thousand words.....
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Sorry to doubt you DL. Seems like you were right about the MAF.
Took the car for a blast tonight with the MAF sensor unplugged and the car drove fine. Plugged the sensor back in and gave the car some stick and the power dropped off like before. Unplugged it again to double check and another drive and back to being ok.
You seem to be right!! Sorry, sorry...........
Any ideas exactly what part I need? Europarts are quoting me about £120 to £160 when I say I want a MAF sensor. Does this component break down into seprate parts that fail??
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That's OK! I'm used to it!
The MAF and the housing it sits in is a matched pair so no individual components are serviceable.
EuroCarParts quote is a keen price - I'm pretty sure they would be switched-on enough to be quoting for the correct part.
I'm afraid it's time to bite the bullet and shell out for a new one.
Is your MAF made by Bosch?
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Hi DL, Just to confuse things, I took the car out again last night AFTER test driving it and coming up with the failed MAF thing. This time, with the MAF plugged in, I drove it hard and the car flew. Much more free revving and powerful than when we bought it some 6 months ago. No matter what I did, I couldn't get the power to drop off with the MAF plugged in! IT drove like a dream.
Did I dislodge something with the MAF whilst plugging and unplugging on the previous drive??
I'm totally confused now! Still the MAF??
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Judging by other forums, there are a lot of people fitting a Merc (Pierburg?) MAF in place of the standard Bosch unit. Costs between £40-£50 from Merc dealers.
The part number is - A 611 094 00 48.
Apparently you will need a size T20 or T25, 5 (five) spline torx/star bit (Maplins) to remove the screws, although some have managed with pliers!
Also, I believe a locating tab or similar needs to be trimmed off the plug with a stanley knife.
Other than that ,it works a treat, and supposedly lets it rev a bit more freely too.
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