My E Reg 1300 Golf, which apart from being underpowered, has always run really well.
When I fired it up yesterday it sounded like it was running on three cylinders only. As it sits outside all night I assumed that it was damp. I sat reving it for five minutes and it seemed to clear as it got warm I then drove into work and it seemed OK. When I started it up after work at 18.30 hrs it did the same thing (misfiring, cutting out) and I again reved it up until I was confident enough that it wouldn't cut out on me and get me killed on the way home. It did the same thing this morning so I left it at home and got a lift into work.
I've just started it up in the dark and it started really poorly again and misfired for about five minutes. I had the bonnet up in the dark during this time but couldn't see any electrical leakage of any sort. All the leads seem OK and are fitted properly.
Can anyone advise me of the best course of action please.It has done 75,000 miles and is serviced regularly.
|
|
Had the same problem last Autumn. I started by replacing the distributor cap and rotor arm (pretty cheap) on one day, then the plug leads (not so cheap) another day. In the end it was a duff spark plug that was misfiring when cold but sort of OK once the engine was hot until the breakdown in the ceramic insulator got so bad the misfire was there all the time. New set of plugs and all was well.
|
Thanks for that.
The plugs are relatively new and have done around 3000 miles.
Could still be a duff one I suppose. I've just taken that air cleaner top off and the auto choke looks like it's working OK. I'll see if it's fully closed by the morning just to make sure it isn't sticking.
I'll probably follow your trail. I assume that the 1.3 engine is relatively uncomplicated?
|
Just had a look at the distributor cap and rotor arm.
Both are original VW parts so I assume that they are the factory fitteds maybe.
The little sprung bit in the middle of the cap fell out and was lost. They both look incredibly worn so I've replaced them both at £7.
I'll see how it is in the morning.
|
If it's still misfiring in the morning, identify which cylinder by sequentially removing each plug lead in turn. You'll hear the engine as it goes down to two cylinders on all but the duff one. You can then isolate the problem by working backwards from the plug. Make sure you observe electrical safety precautions though an HT kick is not pleasant!
|
Had an identical problem on an old astra. It was the head gasket. Coolant would seep into the cylinder overnight. It would then start and run on three cylinders for a couple of minutes.
Just to rule this out open your expansion tank and smell for a crankcase/oil mist type smell.
Also check your dipstick for mayonnaise type deposits.
|
|
|
|
|
remember some mechs who service NEVER CHANGE THE LEADS OR PLUGS,just to make a bit more money,i would change these ,get a new rotor and dist cap, and i bet that sorts it out.
|
I've: -
checked that the choke appears to be closing properly
changed the rotor arm and dist. cap.
Got in it this morning.
It fired up first time, ran perfectly for 30 seconds then started to misfire again.
|
There doesn't appear to be any mayonaise type stuff around the dipstick or filler cap.
I'll get some new plugs and leads in the week.
|
Yeah, plugs and leads will have you sorted..I'm sure.
--
groups.msn.com/honestjohn - Pictures say a thousand words.....
Reply |
Report as offensive
| Link
|
|
Leads shouldn't be more than £20 for a set of 5 from Halfords/GSF/Euro Car Parts. Even if that's not what the problem is, car will thank you for its present!
|
|
|
|
|
Sound just like my plug problem. I suspect in my case the fairly new plug (about 5K miles old) was dropped at some stage cracking the insulation near the tip just enough to cause a misfire. As mapmaker says, Halfords leads are much cheaper and if your distributor is Bosch they sell Bosch brand leads at about the same price as their own brand. Good luck!
|
Thanks for the contributions.
I left the motor at home today. I'm struggling to look at it until Wed night because of work so I'll post back then and coj a lift in the meantime?
|
It's been in my local garage today.
The only thing that the mechanic could spot that was obviously wrong was something to do with the carb being set not rich enough. It was 0.5 and it should be 2.5 ish apparently. I can't see how this would give me the problem that I have had but I'm not a mechanic! I've asked the chap to keep the car until the morning and try it when it's cold rather than give it back to me not fixed!
He's also replaced the clutch cable which he reckoned was ready to snap and ordered a new engine mounting which is knackered. Probably end up costing me more than the car is worth!
|
...could be a hall sender problem if it is not firing properly, although this generally causes hestitation in starting.
As above, change rotor and cap which are cheap in value but can make a huge difference. Also check the leads carefully, one could be split?
|
Finally got the car back today.
Mechanic thinks that he has found the problem. I'll only know in the morning for sure.
He has replaced a bit of the carb that operates the automatic choke together with some wires that come out of it.
Cost me £78 plus new clutch cable (£10) plus new engine mounting (£40) plus fitting.
Hope that it is OK now given the worth of the car and the amount that I have had to shell out!
|
Went down this route with my F reg 1.3 Jetta - leads, plugs, rotor arm ,dizzy cap after suffering the same symptoms as yours.
The one item you never suspect is the culprit - THE COIL. Substitute this and check if the mis-fire goes. It's an age problem, the internal insulation breaks down and reduces the HT to the plugs. Cheers, Mike
|
|
It seems loads better (but not perfect) so it must have been something to do with the choke. Just runs a bit rough for a minute or so when cold before clearing.
|
Halmer
I have a problem with my choke as well on the same car. Could you tell me exactly what the mechanic did to yours please?
Thanks
|
Hi Sarb11
I'm not sure what the part was but it was £78 excluding fitting.
I would have tried the scrapyard if I had got time but I hadn't. The mechanic told me that he could convert it to amnual choke for £40 plus fitting but it has always worked so well that i preferred auto. It's an old 1300 but a belting little car.
The part was the bit that controls the choke with a coiled spring inside it. I'll have a look in my Haynes manual and identify it for you.
|
|
It's called a choke cover!
|
|
It's the only bit of the carb that has electrical connections I think. Two wires run from it if I recall.
|
|
The car is a load better but still lumpy when cold.
|
|
|
|
