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I agree with RT, I'd rather the level was higher than lower.
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Can be enlightening RTFM, not all engines are dipped when cold for the correct oil level.
Keep mine topped up or near enough, which might mean the odd half pint going into the Subaru between oil changes, my ocd would probably cause bad dreams if i found the oil level at or below mid way point.
Can't see the point in saving £2.50 worth of oil when the alternative of allowing the oil to run to its minimual level might see a moment of oil starvation following some violent evasive or braking action when the oil already low gets sloshed up one end of the sump, that cost would seem a bargain in comparison, let alone the fresh oil added doing no harm at all and only good...agreed i'm talking about my own situation where i can buy decent quality oil in bulk and use it in all our cars because they're old school.
We're already into the surreal of there being production engines (i'll never buy such garbage) fitted with toy oil pumps unable to self prime, meaning you have around 10/15 minutes to get the fresh oil back in or have possible problems, (how you're supposed to refit a leaking sump gasket in 10 mins isn't fully explained), a colleague has had an engine replaced due to the garage not replacing the oil quickly enough leading to seizure...they call this progress.
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Apart from my first car when I was 18 (a knackered VW Golf that burned a pint of oil every 100 miles), I've never needed to top up any engine in between services. I've always checked fluid levels monthly, the Focus comes back from its service with the oil at the MAX and there it stays (1.6 petrol Yamaha engine). When I bought the car in 2008 I paid for a litre of top-up oil as I was travelling to France three times a year. It never was needed and it's so old now I'm not sure I would want to.
If I had a car that used oil I think I would be happy with it midway between MIN and MAX. I looked at the spec for my engine, the difference between MIN and MAX is half a litre so if I kept it halfway it would only be quarter of a litre less than full. As the total capacity (including filter) is 4.1 litres, I can't see that ever being a problem. Other engines may be different.
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I'm in the "arguably erroneous" camp, as is everyone else. That's why they call it "arguable"
My reasoning is that
(a) it gives me a bit of reserve in case of leaks
(b) Oil cost is negligable
(c) It tops up the additives/viscosity etc (though I very much doubt these are significantly depleted on my use pattern)
(d) I'm in Taiwan, so any warm up time effect, (probably a tiny effect anywhere) will be less here.
(e) I've read somewhere that my car specifically has a fairly low minimum, though I don't know if this is true and would probably do it with anything anyway.
I probably wouldn't top-to-max just before an oil change, but since my OCI is around 5-6 years, this doesn't apply very often.
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a colleague has had an engine replaced due to the garage not replacing the oil quickly enough leading to seizure...they call this progress.
Not heard that one before GB, what engine was it or who made it, Ive come across a mechanic that forgot to put the oil in before several times and seized it on the test drive, but not how quickly/slowly it was put in?
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a colleague has had an engine replaced due to the garage not replacing the oil quickly enough leading to seizure...they call this progress.
Not heard that one before GB, what engine was it or who made it, Ive come across a mechanic that forgot to put the oil in before several times and seized it on the test drive, but not how quickly/slowly it was put in?
IIRC if you dont replace the oil fast enough on a Ford Ranger the oil pump, which doesn't self prime, needs a special procedure to get going again. That would seem likely to produce the behavior described.
I dunno if any other manufacturers have embraced this clever trick.
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Not heard that one before GB, what engine was it or who made it, Ive come across a mechanic that forgot to put the oil in before several times and seized it on the test drive, but not how quickly/slowly it was put in?
1 litre Ford ecoboost.
John Cadoggan first raised this issue about the 3.2 engine in Ranger pick ups, i hadn't realised the 1 litre could have similar issues (we're assuming the indy workshop did the job correctly otherwise), neither are engines i've had any dealings with, but this has ruled out the otherwise pencilled in 3.2 engined Ranger for me.
Can anyone expian why these pumps can't self prime, seems a backward step to me but there must be a reason.
Edited by gordonbennet on 12/11/2022 at 17:24
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Not heard that one before GB, what engine was it or who made it, Ive come across a mechanic that forgot to put the oil in before several times and seized it on the test drive, but not how quickly/slowly it was put in?
1 litre Ford ecoboost.
John Cadoggan first raised this issue about the 3.2 engine in Ranger pick ups, i hadn't realised the 1 litre could have similar issues (we're assuming the indy workshop did the job correctly otherwise), neither are engines i've had any dealings with, but this has ruled out the otherwise pencilled in 3.2 engined Ranger for me.
Can anyone expian why these pumps can't self prime, seems a backward step to me but there must be a reason.
I'd a friend who had a T reg Fiat Punto. When he changed the oil himself (car was probably around 5 years old) the oil pressure light wouldn't go off. He phoned a contact at the Fiat garage and they advised that he needed to use the right Fiat oil. He went to the Fiat garage for oil and did another change. The oil pressure light went off this time, once started.
Could it just be that the wrong grade/ spec of oil is being used in the Ford's you mentioned???
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Can anyone explain why these pumps can't self prime, seems a backward step to me but there must be a reason.
they are using variable displacement pumps, which I gather the new Prius has and is ECU controlled like the water pump. it assists in heating up the engine from cold faster to reduce emissions and keeps a more controlled temp across the whole engine which the Prius for one needs as its not run as often
apparently if an oil change is done the change should be done in a certain time to prevent oil drain off of the pump, otherwise they have to be primed, though I couldn't see how its done.
everything is moving or has moved to ECU control now because of emissions
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they are using variable displacement pumps, which I gather the new Prius has and is ECU controlled like the water pump. it assists in heating up the engine from cold faster to reduce emissions and keeps a more controlled temp across the whole engine which the Prius for one needs as its not run as often
apparently if an oil change is done the change should be done in a certain time to prevent oil drain off of the pump, otherwise they have to be primed, though I couldn't see how its done.
everything is moving or has moved to ECU control now because of emissions
And there was me wondering, as rapidly approaching retirement, about a Toyota Hybrid when the current fleet get taxed off the road, much obliged to my learned friend's information.
...scrubs latest Toyota hybrids from possible future interest...ecu controlled water and oil pumps eh? er not ta.
dare say there's a method of priming whether its diy possible anyone's guess, but do i/we really want to spend our hard earned on such t***
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they are using variable displacement pumps, which I gather the new Prius has and is ECU controlled like the water pump. it assists in heating up the engine from cold faster to reduce emissions and keeps a more controlled temp across the whole engine which the Prius for one needs as its not run as often
apparently if an oil change is done the change should be done in a certain time to prevent oil drain off of the pump, otherwise they have to be primed, though I couldn't see how its done.
everything is moving or has moved to ECU control now because of emissions
And there was me wondering, as rapidly approaching retirement, about a Toyota Hybrid when the current fleet get taxed off the road, much obliged to my learned friend's information.
...scrubs latest Toyota hybrids from possible future interest...ecu controlled water and oil pumps eh? er not ta.
dare say there's a method of priming whether its diy possible anyone's guess, but do i/we really want to spend our hard earned on such t***
Toyota 5th generation hybrid is about to launch, I would suggest doing more research from reliable sources before dismissing buying one.
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Toyota 5th generation hybrid is about to launch, I would suggest doing more research from reliable sources before dismissing buying one.
They are all becoming more technical due to emission's regs so I have doubts GB would rely on a forum member to decide on buying one or not.
might I suggest You tubes ( the car care nut) he is a Toyota tech in the USA and explains things much better than most do, imo, and explains any problems if there are any to watch out for
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might I suggest You tubes ( the car care nut) he is a Toyota tech in the USA and explains things much better than most do, imo, and explains any problems if there are any to watch out for
Yes i watch him regularly, was most intereresting seeing his in depth appraisal of new Highlander/4runner, apart from the engine being petrol the rest of the chassis and running gear axles brakes suspension etc are the near enough the same as my 2005 Prado (small Landcruiser), something that has kept me in Toyota 4x4s for many years is that 'if it aint broke don't fix it philosophy', i've had the same basic engine since 1993 albeit in my 70 series it was mechanically injected.
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apparently if an oil change is done the change should be done in a certain time to prevent oil drain off of the pump, otherwise they have to be primed, though I couldn't see how its done.
everything is moving or has moved to ECU control now because of emissions
I shouldn't let it put you off GB. Apparently they're not the only manufacturer to go down this path. I asked the question on a Toyota forum and got conflicting replies. I did find this description of their 1.5, 3 cyl engine and it seems you should be more worried about the EGR cooler heat exchanger
Right at the bottom of the link:
toyota-club.net/files/faq/20-08-01_faq_df_r3_en.htm
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I shouldn't let it put you off GB. Apparently they're not the only manufacturer to go down this path. I asked the question on a Toyota forum and got conflicting replies. I did find this description of their 1.5, 3 cyl engine and it seems you should be more worried about the EGR cooler heat exchanger
Right at the bottom of the link:
toyota-club.net/files/faq/20-08-01_faq_df_r3_en.htm
The inner Luddite isn't impressed by any of this tat, Toyota are a superb car maker designing some of the toughest most durable vehicles of all shapes and sizes, it's no accident that you find large parts of the best designs have been in use for decades.
Much olbliged for that link BT, 1.5 engine scrubbed from possibles list :-)
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Much olbliged for that link BT, 1.5 engine scrubbed from possibles list :-)
At least it's still got a chain cam drive (for now) and not a cotton belt inside the engine ;>)
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Much olbliged for that link BT, 1.5 engine scrubbed from possibles list :-)
At least it's still got a chain cam drive (for now) and not a cotton belt inside the engine ;>)
Doesn`t stop the rest of the parts of the engine breaking over time if they have not time/mileage tested it, not sure Toyota still do that like Honda do
Maybe they will have better luck with the Hydrogen unit they are working on, including the fuel cell they were supposedly giving up (but still researching into) we def need another form of fuel rather than all electric imo....
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Can be enlightening RTFM, not all engines are dipped when cold for the correct oil level.
Toyota hybrids being the prime candidate.
My previous Peugeot with the Purecrap engine suffered from oil dilution so you never needed to top the oil up at first - then it suffered the classic Purecrap issue of consuming oil so I had to start adding oil to it.
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