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Thinking for car change - Vikti

I'm looking for a better economy, if possible. My current car is 2012 Ford Fiesta Zetec petrol 1.25/80BHP and for the last year I did 7500 miles with combined 48.3 MPG. I need to mention I'm trying to be economical as possible (driving with 60 mph on the motorway, changing gears at 2000 rpm) Using the car mainly for commuting (80 miles per week, 50 of them on motorway). My budget is around £5000, but if the investment would be beneficial for me in terms of saving from fuel costs, I'm willing to spend more.

Thinking for car change - RT

7,500 miles at 48.3 is about 705 litres/year - so a 10% reduction would only save you about £116/year in fuel costs - you'll never recoup the cost of changing your car on that basis.

Thinking for car change - Vikti

I forgot to mention that I can sell my current car for around £5000 (according to websites, it has 52000 miles).

Edited by Vikti on 27/04/2022 at 08:40

Thinking for car change - elekie&a/c doctor
Stick with what you’ve got . £5k valuation for a 2012 fiesta seems a tad optimistic to me .
Thinking for car change - Vikti
£5k valuation for a 2012 fiesta seems a tad optimistic to me .

No joke, but prices are crazy high at the moment. I can get £4000 from "webuyanycar" and I think would get 4500 with part exchange.

Thinking for car change - Andrew-T

I forgot to mention that I can sell my current car for around £5000 (according to websites, it has 52000 miles).

You said you are looking for 'better economy', without saying if you mean fuel consumption or your overall domestic outlay. If the latter, the biggest change you could make would be to get £5K for your car (if you can) and buy something much cheaper - which clearly may not have the effect intended.

If you mean purely fuel consumption, you aren't likely to save very much with either a petrol car or a diesel, which will use fewer litres, but they cost 10% more than petrol. So as has been said, save by not spending on this occasion. If prices are 'crazy high', that applies when either buying or selling !!

Edited by Andrew-T on 27/04/2022 at 18:14

Thinking for car change - Engineer Andy

I forgot to mention that I can sell my current car for around £5000 (according to websites, it has 52000 miles).

You said you are looking for 'better economy', without saying if you mean fuel consumption or your overall domestic outlay. If the latter, the biggest change you could make would be to get £5K for your car (if you can) and buy something much cheaper - which clearly may not have the effect intended.

If you mean purely fuel consumption, you aren't likely to save very much with either a petrol car or a diesel, which will use fewer litres, but they cost 10% more than petrol. So as has been said, save by not spending on this occasion. If prices are 'crazy high', that applies when either buying or selling !!

...and changing to diesel at present for low mileages makes less sense because of the large difference in the prices - petrol at around £1.60 / Ltr or so and diesel around £1.73 /Ltr in my area.

Thinking for car change - badbusdriver

Unless there are problems with your current car, just stick with it. The amount you'd save in mpg relative to the £5k outlay really wouldn't be worth it.

With used car prices as high as they are, your £5k won't go as far as you might hope, therefore the car you'd get wouldn't be as as young as you'd hope. With that in mind, reliability should also be taken into account, and in that respect the 1.25 Fiesta is very good indeed!.

Also worth pointing out that your economy is not solely determined by the revs, it is actually how much throttle is being used. So you might be doing 2000rpm in 5th going up a hill but your foot is hard down due to a the lack of torque. Changing down to 4th or 3rd would result in higher revs, but because you are not using so much throttle to maintain the same speed, your mpg will be higher.

Thinking for car change - John F

.... you might be doing 2000rpm in 5th going up a hill but your foot is hard down due to a the lack of torque. Changing down to 4th or 3rd would result in higher revs, but because you are not using so much throttle to maintain the same speed, your mpg will be higher.

Not so. Illustrated by the realtime mpg display in our Peugeot 2008. I have experimented with this in manual mode (the EAT6 in auto does not allow any engine 'labouring'). On change down, even though you might be lighter on the throttle, the mpg reading immediately worsens as the higher revs allow more power to get to the wheels and also to be wasted in engine heat and frictional losses. This obviously uses more fuel, even if the speed remains constant.

It is always best to keep the revs as low as possible without labouring the engine, although I suppose modern fuel and ignition systems prevent the damage that could be caused in the past by overfuelling and pre-ignition. But it's still a good reason to choose auto over manual when buying used as the engine will have been protected from such misuse.

Thinking for car change - Andrew-T

.... you might be doing 2000rpm in 5th going up a hill but your foot is hard down due to a the lack of torque. Changing down to 4th or 3rd would result in higher revs, but because you are not using so much throttle to maintain the same speed, your mpg will be higher.

Not so. Illustrated by the realtime mpg display in our Peugeot 2008. I have experimented with this in manual mode (the EAT6 in auto does not allow any engine 'labouring'). On change down, even though you might be lighter on the throttle, the mpg reading immediately worsens as the higher revs allow more power to get to the wheels and also to be wasted in engine heat and frictional losses. This obviously uses more fuel, even if the speed remains constant.

It is always best to keep the revs as low as possible without labouring the engine, ...

John, I think you are describing petrol-engined cars. The effect you describe doesn't (always) happen with my Pug diesel. Climbing a gentle gradient at about 50mph in top (5th) I can change to 4th and use less fuel, probably because I am nearer the peak of the torque curve - which is typically around 2000rpm for a diesel or 3000 for a petrol.

Similarly I can cruise down a gentle gradient at about 30mph in 4th or even 5th, when the engine is idling at about 1100rpm, but I don't find any advantage in doing so. So there is not necessarily any purpose in keeping RPM as low as possible - tho that certainly used to be the mantra in the 'old days'.

Thinking for car change - John F

It is always best to keep the revs as low as possible without labouring the engine, ...

John, I think you are describing petrol-engined cars. The effect you describe doesn't (always) happen with my Pug diesel. Climbing a gentle gradient at about 50mph in top (5th) I can change to 4th and use less fuel, probably because I am nearer the peak of the torque curve - which is typically around 2000rpm for a diesel or 3000 for a petrol.

Interesting. Is that demonstrated on a realtime mpg gauge or a theoretical argument? Assuming speed remains constant, the power needed is exactly the same whichever gear is used, but extra power will be needed to spin the engine at higher revs if in a lower gear. Your argument must rely on the assumption that the engine runs more efficiently at higher revs, i.e. power output per ml of fuel, whether petrol, diesel, or LPG, which I find hard to believe. If that were the case, cars would be much lower geared.

Thinking for car change - Andrew-T

It is always best to keep the revs as low as possible without labouring the engine, ...

John, I think you are describing petrol-engined cars. The effect you describe doesn't (always) happen with my Pug diesel. Climbing a gentle gradient at about 50mph in top (5th) I can change to 4th and use less fuel, probably because I am nearer the peak of the torque curve - which is typically around 2000rpm for a diesel or 3000 for a petrol.

Interesting. Is that demonstrated on a realtime mpg gauge or a theoretical argument?

Yes, now and then I watch the instant consumption figure on the dash, most often while cruising at indicated 60-62mph on the M'way, which is pretty level. With the 1.6 HDi I don't usually see a penalty in changing down from top to 4th while climbing at 50mph, but I would probably expect to at 60.

Edited by Andrew-T on 28/04/2022 at 12:39

Thinking for car change - John F

I cannot think of a much easier life for a car. And I cannot think of a much more economical, mechanically reliable and cheap to repair car than this. If cared for, with mileage at a guess around 80,000 miles, it should only be about halfway through its life, as long as any corrosion is dealt with as soon as it appears. (Our Focus Zetec lasted over 21yrs and 160,000 miles).

The main motoring cost for most people, especially those doing fewer than 10,000 miles a year, is depreciation. From now on the depreciation cost of this car will be minimal. A car purchase is not an 'investment' which might appreciate and/or pay a dividend, it is a 'wasting asset' which, unless it's something like a McLaren F1, starts reducing in value as soon as it is bought. Saving a penny or two per mile on fuel (£75 - 150 a year) is peanuts compared to the cost of changing to a more expensive car.

I sometimes get a thought about changing cars, so I go and lie down and wait until the thought passes.

Thinking for car change - daveyjp

Unless the car generates income it isn't an investment. Its a depreciating asset so fuel savings won't cover the cost to change,

If you want to save significant amount on fuel spend the obvious is to go full EV, but you will need far more budget to get a vehicle which meets your needs. MGs are considered the best value for the potential range offree.

Thinking for car change - movilogo

People often just want to change car but try to justify with calculation to make it look like rationale decision :-)

Thinking for car change - Vikti

If I go for MG, it would cost me around £25 000 to buy, without to mention the interest because of the finance I would need. I would safe £1136 from petrol each year (if price stay 1.60). I would need to drive 27 years to recoup the £30 000 price of the MG. For these years the car will be 200 000 miles driven. And I'm not counting the cost for charging battery at home.

Thinking for car change - Engineer Andy

I'd stick with what yoiu've got - as others have said, the cost to change (including possible higher insurance and/or VED) will wipe out any gains you may get mpg wise, and you'll be saddled with a car you don't fully know its usage and/or maintenance history - which could, if you're unlucky, lead to big bills.

Better the 'devil' you know.

Thinking for car change - badbusdriver

If I go for MG, it would cost me around £25 000 to buy, without to mention the interest because of the finance I would need. I would safe £1136 from petrol each year (if price stay 1.60). I would need to drive 27 years to recoup the £30 000 price of the MG. For these years the car will be 200 000 miles driven. And I'm not counting the cost for charging battery at home.

For £5k you aren't going to get something significantly more efficient* or reliable than your Fiesta, so unless you really want a change you'd be better just sticking with it.

*Unless you went for a diesel, and that wouldn't be advisable at this price point.

Thinking for car change - Vikti

*Unless you went for a diesel, and that wouldn't be advisable at this price point.

What budget I would need for a diesel and would it be a good choice In my circumstances?

Thinking for car change - badbusdriver

*Unless you went for a diesel, and that wouldn't be advisable at this price point.

What budget I would need for a diesel and would it be a good choice In my circumstances?

There are two main issues with diesel.

First is reliability, this car vary dramatically depending on both car and journey type (you should be OK here). Second is maintenance costs. A normal service might not cost much more than a petrol, but should anything other than this be needed, costs can spiral dramatically.

One of the few modern diesels forum member and ex motor trader SLO recommends is the Honda 1.6 DTEC. You could get into a 2013 Civic (up to 80k miles, no insurance write offs) with this engine for just under £7k. At 60mph on the motorway 70mpg+ is feasible, but say 60-65mpg average. Based on current average fuel prices, your 7.5k annual miles will cost around £1150 for the Fiesta, the Civic's would be around £925 (at 65mpg). Assuming you work 48 weeks, that is a saving of less than £5 per week.

But should the Civic require a set of injectors, that would require about 4 years of the money you saved in fuel over the Fiesta!.

So at the risk of becoming repetitive, (unless there is a problem with the Fiesta) you'd be far better off financially to stick with it.

Thinking for car change - Vikti

You could get into a 2013 Civic (up to 80k miles, no insurance write offs) with this engine for just under £7k.

And those around £2000 extra will be recouped by fuel savings with 8 years driving which will add 60 000 miles to the engine and finger crossed will not break by then (80 000+60 000). The thing I can get from your advice is that diesel is suitable for my journeys which I wasn't sure about. The best I can do is to check regularly for a diesel car similar to mine (what about Fiesta 1.6 TDCi ECOnetic?), where I will not spend too much upfront, and for sure to have warranty included + FSH.

Thinking for car change - badbusdriver

And those around £2000 extra will be recouped by fuel savings with 8 years driving which will add 60 000 miles to the engine and finger crossed will not break by then

The chances of you getting 8 trouble free years out of an already 9 year old diesel is absolutely tiny. Maybe if it has just had injectors and or fuel pump replaced, otherwise you will have to stump up for this at some point.

what about Fiesta 1.6 TDCi ECOnetic?

This goes back to the reliability factor. The cost of developing new engines (whether petrol or diesel) means that manufacturers often share. The 1.6 in the Ford is a PSA (Peugeot/Citroen, now PSA) unit which has the nickname, 'diesel of doom'!. This is perhaps slightly unfair, but it does seem to be the case that they are very sensitive to service intervals and, particularly, the exact specification of oil used.

The VAG (VW, Audi, Seat, Skoda) 1.6 diesel also has a poor reputation (this was the engine at the centre of the 'dieselgate' scandal).

Those two engines will account for a huge proportion of the diesel engined cars of a Fiesta-Focus size within your budget.

Personally, I might be tempted by a Vauxhall Astra or Corsa with the 1.7 diesel (but being very aware that it still could all go pear shaped). This is an Isuzu engine and much more reliable than the 1.3 and 1.6 diesels you also get in Vauxhalls, which come from Fiat. One of them should certainly fall within your £5k budget.

Thinking for car change - galileo

You could get into a 2013 Civic (up to 80k miles, no insurance write offs) with this engine for just under £7k.

And those around £2000 extra will be recouped by fuel savings with 8 years driving which will add 60 000 miles to the engine and finger crossed will not break by then (80 000+60 000). The thing I can get from your advice is that diesel is suitable for my journeys which I wasn't sure about. The best I can do is to check regularly for a diesel car similar to mine (what about Fiesta 1.6 TDCi ECOnetic?), where I will not spend too much upfront, and for sure to have warranty included + FSH.

Don't forget that diesel fuel is a higher price than petrol and has been hard to find recently in some areas. I would agree with the majority view that you would be better staying with your present car rather than taking the risk of changing it for one which may have or develop problems.

Thinking for car change - badbusdriver

(Peugeot/Citroen, now PSA)

That should read, now Stellantis, which includes Fiat and Vauxhall amongst others.

Thinking for car change - Andrew-T

<< The thing I can get from your advice is that diesel is suitable for my journeys which I wasn't sure about. >>

Don't fall for this idea. The standard consensus on here is that anyone needs to clock up a high mileage (say > 15K a year) before a case can be made for going diesel. Plus there are places where diesel cars are not welcome. Some drivers prefer a diesel car for the way it drives, which is another matter.

I have driven Peugeot diesels for 25 years and am happy with the one I have. But much of the car-buying public don't like them any more so they depreciate (unless you buy an old one). My argument is that they make less CO2, but not all THAT much less, in reality.

Thinking for car change - expat
First is reliability, this car vary dramatically depending on both car and journey type (you should be OK here).

The OP might be ok for his type of usage but what about previous owners? If they didn't give the diesel regular long runs then it may be just about to expire. People sell cars for a reason and one of the most common reasons is that they are expecting big bills. Unless you know all the previous owners then a secondhand diesel is taking a big chance of getting huge bills.

Thinking for car change - Big John

48,3 mpg is pretty good anyway! Don't get blinkered by potential diesel fuel / car tax savings as on a £5k budget (doubt you'll get that for the Fiesta) the potential garage bills would eclipse any savings. With a diesel you'll be buying a higher mileage car probably fitted with a DPF. DO NOT buy a diesel that's had emissions technology removed / deleted otherwise you may fail an MOT and it's illegal to drive. It used to be a good fall-back to find a car that wasn't fitted with a DPF new - the old VAG 1.9 pd engined cars were well renowned (although some had DPF near 2009) for starship mileage capability but most are too old now to be a good proposition. Lot's of ultra low emissions zones not keen on pre euro 6 diesel engined vehicles .

It's not a great time to buy a used car as prices are over inflated - yes the trade in might be worth a bit more but what you're buying will have gone up by more!! Any transaction will need to leave the garage with profit - this will come out of your pocket indirectly.

I'd stick with the 1.25 Fiesta myself as although it's not exciting it's a well regarded engine unlike the 1.0 ecoboost engine that superseded it. Saying that you might be in the mood for a change anyway - that's a different conversation .............

Edited by Big John on 27/04/2022 at 19:32

Thinking for car change - Ian D
Sound advice above, stick with the car you have, it is by far the best option.
Thinking for car change - bazza

As above, good advice. The 1.25 Yamaha zetec is an absolutely superb engine and there really isn't any advantage in changing it, don't forget diesel is 15 to 20p a litre more than petrol and increasing, the financial benefits of diesel are negligible these days for most of us.

Thinking for car change - badbusdriver

John, I think you are describing petrol-engined cars. The effect you describe doesn't (always) happen with my Pug diesel. Climbing a gentle gradient at about 50mph in top (5th) I can change to 4th and use less fuel, probably because I am nearer the peak of the torque curve - which is typically around 2000rpm for a diesel or 3000 for a petrol.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Interesting. Is that demonstrated on a realtime mpg gauge or a theoretical argument? Assuming speed remains constant, the power needed is exactly the same whichever gear is used, but extra power will be needed to spin the engine at higher revs if in a lower gear. Your argument must rely on the assumption that the engine runs more efficiently at higher revs, i.e. power output per ml of fuel, whether petrol, diesel, or LPG, which I find hard to believe. If that were the case, cars would be much lower geared.

I was going to suggest you may be overthinking this John, but I guess it could also be that I am underthinking it!.

I'm no mechanic, but my understanding has always been that it is how far open the throttle is (or how far down you are pressing the pedal), that determines the amount of fuel used, not the engine speed.

Using a bicycle as a comparison, my thinking is this: If I pedal up a hill in a high gear, the crank will be turning relatively slowly (rpm), but I am using a lot of energy (fuel) to maintain a given speed. If I change to a lower gear, the crank will be turning at a faster speed, but I am using less energy to maintain the same speed.

I don't see why this would be any different in a car?

I'm not suggesting the engine speed has no bearing, but neither do I believe that coming down hill, in gear (but off throttle) at 3000rpm will use the same fuel as going uphill in the same gear at 3000rpm.

Thinking for car change - Andrew-T

<< If I pedal up a hill in a high gear, the crank will be turning relatively slowly (rpm), but I am using a lot of energy (fuel) to maintain a given speed. If I change to a lower gear, the crank will be turning at a faster speed, but I am using less energy to maintain the same speed. >>

If you integrate your input of effort, is it better to do fewer turns requiring more effort, or the opposite - more turns with less effort ?

And cruising downhill with closed throttle should use zero fuel in a 'modern' diesel !

Edited by Andrew-T on 28/04/2022 at 12:46

Thinking for car change - galileo

Using a bicycle as a comparison, my thinking is this: If I pedal up a hill in a high gear, the crank will be turning relatively slowly (rpm), but I am using a lot of energy (fuel) to maintain a given speed. If I change to a lower gear, the crank will be turning at a faster speed, but I am using less energy to maintain the same speed.

I don't see why this would be any different in a car?

The difference in the two gears you notice is the difference in pedal effort (force).

You also need to consider the speed at which you rotate the pedals, 'work' is defined as force x distance, and power as work per unit of time.

So the lower gear uses less force but the pedals move further in the same time, the 'work' and 'horsepower' will be the same.

I thought that car engines usually give best thermal efficiency at full throttle, or is that not the case?

Thinking for car change - John F

Using a bicycle as a comparison, my thinking is this: If I pedal up a hill in a high gear, the crank will be turning relatively slowly (rpm), but I am using a lot of energy (fuel) to maintain a given speed. If I change to a lower gear, the crank will be turning at a faster speed, but I am using less energy to maintain the same speed.

I think you are confusing force with energy. The same amount of energy is required to get the bicycle from the bottom to the top of the hill, no matter what gear it is in, and no matter how long it takes. The comparison is complicated by considerations of heat generated by muscular contraction and relaxation and the frictional losses at the joints, which I suppose might be similar to the considerations of what goes on in the joints of an ICE. The more mechanical oscillations there are, the more energy is needed to supply these heat and frictional losses.

Thinking for car change - Andrew-T

<< I'm not suggesting the engine speed has no bearing, but neither do I believe that coming down hill, in gear (but off throttle) at 3000rpm will use the same fuel as going uphill in the same gear at 3000rpm. >>

There's another small point to consider when comparing petrol with diesel. Especially in a lower gear, a diesel engine can propel the car on a closed throttle without stalling, while the driver of a petrol engine will need to prevent that happening, so may use more throttle ?

Thinking for car change - Metropolis.
Whoops wrong thread

Edited by Metropolis. on 28/04/2022 at 13:33

Thinking for car change - Vikti

Thank you all for replies and advices.

I would like to ask one more thing. For around one month I can hear sounds coming from my car while driving. youtube.com/watch?v=kL2ym-v36I8&feature=share It's not all the time and it's not happening right after start. I believe it needs to heat up, probably after around half an hour driving. It's worse when the weather is warm. Sometimes is happening even when the car is stopped. youtube.com/shorts/SAqaKkH5yhw?feature=share here engine is off, on first gear and without handbrake. I'm inside the car trying to shake it moving forward and backwards. Went to my local garage, mechanic had a quick look at each tyre using a jack. Seemed okay for him but said for a deeper inspection to come next week. Anyone with an idea what's wrong?

Thinking for car change - John F

Brake pad(s) down to the metal? But the garage would surely have spotted this.

Thinking for car change - Vikti

Brake pad(s) down to the metal? But the garage would surely have spotted this.

They even thought the pads are new. I must say the first video is compilation from 25 minutes driving.

Thinking for car change - badbusdriver

Wheel bearing?.

Thinking for car change - Vikti

Wheel bearing?.

Comparing with YouTube videos how bad wheel bearing sounds, I don't think so. I forgot to mention the noise is coming mostly when I'm driving with slow speed - 1st, 2nd, 3rd gears.

Thinking for car change - Bolt

Wheel bearing?.

Comparing with YouTube videos how bad wheel bearing sounds, I don't think so. I forgot to mention the noise is coming mostly when I'm driving with slow speed - 1st, 2nd, 3rd gears.

wouldn`t worry about what others sound like, it does in my opinion without looking at it sound like dry wheel bearing, I would check it as if they fail they can destroy the hub!

Thinking for car change - badbusdriver

Wheel bearing?.

Comparing with YouTube videos how bad wheel bearing sounds, I don't think so. I forgot to mention the noise is coming mostly when I'm driving with slow speed - 1st, 2nd, 3rd gears.

wouldn`t worry about what others sound like, it does in my opinion without looking at it sound like dry wheel bearing, I would check it as if they fail they can destroy the hub!

Many moons ago I knackered the rear hub on my Vauxhall Nova because I didn't do anything about the squealing from the bearing. The wheel locked solid on the way home from work!. I went into a nearby office to ask if I could phone a garage, but a very kindly lady working there used her AA membership (which covered any car she was travelling in rather than just her car) to get me and the car home. Since then I've always been a bit paranoid about any noise which could be a wheel bearing!.

The noise in the first clip sounds like a bearing to me. Also, in the early stages, it wouldn't be a constant noise, plus it would get worse as it warms up. Not saying that is what it is, but a wheel bearing would be the first thing I'd look at.

Re John F's suggestion, in my (irresponsible and skint) youth, I've had at least two cars where the brake pads were worn to the point of metal to metal. This made a grinding/scraping noise in those cases rather than a squealing noise.

Thinking for car change - Bolt

Wheel bearing?.

Comparing with YouTube videos how bad wheel bearing sounds, I don't think so. I forgot to mention the noise is coming mostly when I'm driving with slow speed - 1st, 2nd, 3rd gears.

wouldn`t worry about what others sound like, it does in my opinion without looking at it sound like dry wheel bearing, I would check it as if they fail they can destroy the hub!

Many moons ago I knackered the rear hub on my Vauxhall Nova because I didn't do anything about the squealing from the bearing. The wheel locked solid on the way home from work!. I went into a nearby office to ask if I could phone a garage, but a very kindly lady working there used her AA membership (which covered any car she was travelling in rather than just her car) to get me and the car home. Since then I've always been a bit paranoid about any noise which could be a wheel bearing!.

The noise in the first clip sounds like a bearing to me. Also, in the early stages, it wouldn't be a constant noise, plus it would get worse as it warms up. Not saying that is what it is, but a wheel bearing would be the first thing I'd look at.

Re John F's suggestion, in my (irresponsible and skint) youth, I've had at least two cars where the brake pads were worn to the point of metal to metal. This made a grinding/scraping noise in those cases rather than a squealing noise.

as the squeal only occurs while turning can only be bearing and as said pads would grind rather than squeal, unless its just dust between pads and disc which is possible, and sounds too close to mic to be inner gearbox bearing

Thinking for car change - Vikti

I left the car this morning at the garage, stayed there for more than 5 hours, but overall they said nothing is wrong with it. Cleaning/lubricating brakes for £45. If squeeking again, changing pads/discs recommended. 3 months ago I had a service there without any issues. Strange...

Thinking for car change - Adampr

I suspect it's the handbrake cable. Quite a common issue with fiestas that age. Ask the garage to check or take it to a Ford dealer who will know all about it

Thinking for car change - Vikti

Is it possible to be the handbrake cable even though I'm not using handbrake at all? Since I took the car from the garage, still haven't heard any noise.

Thinking for car change - Adampr

Yes, probably more so. If it's gone, though, who cares?

Thinking for car change - Big John

I left the car this morning at the garage, stayed there for more than 5 hours, but overall they said nothing is wrong with it. Cleaning/lubricating brakes for £45. If squeeking again, changing pads/discs recommended. 3 months ago I had a service there without any issues. Strange...

The joys of motoring

Brakes aren't routinely stripped/cleaned /lubricated every service - sometimes never by some places! (My local Indy does this every major service )

Edited by Big John on 15/05/2022 at 23:58