Remove the plug on the side of the distributor. On it you'll have three pins. They are + o - . Pull the main HT lead put of the distributor cap and secure it close to earth but not touching. Switch on the ignition and very briefly bridge terminals o and - together. This should trigger a spark. If it does the coil and module are working, so suspect a faulty Hall Sensor. Here is a way to revive the Hall Sensor if it's not working which works sometimes but not others. Try what I've said first though. Post back if you need it and I'll explain how to do it.

Would be good to try Railroads potential fix too thoogh

Unfortunately I posted that before I read the Doc's comment that the vane is damaged. That being the case the Hall Sensor may be physically damaged too, or it may be in good working order. But it won't switch on and off if the vane is damaged. If the vane was in good condition it'd be worth a try, but since it isn't there really is no point.

But for your information what you need to do is trigger a spark in the way I mentioned before and direct it into the terminal socket on the side of the distributor. I have got many vehicles with Hall Sensor faults going at the roadside by doing this, but it doesn't always work. Your Hall Sensor may not be faulty so I would recommend you don't do it. But you'd have nothing to lose if it was.

Ok so I put the new distributor on today and I think I'm really close. The car runs with the starter and is sparking properly, but as soon as the starter disengages it turns off. I think ii may have got the tdc alignment not quite right? The Haynes Manual mentions a notch in the rear cam belt cover that shows when 1 is at tdc but I can't find what it's on about.

So the manual says firing order js 1,3,4,2 and the rotor goes anticlockwise (which is true from watching it. I have them plugged

3 1

4 2

Basically I'm not totally sure where position 1 should be. I've tried offsetting my pattern one rotation either way and it still hasn't fired properly. I'm also pretty sure my current setup is correct as the 2 ht lead isn't really long enough to go anywhere else. I think I'll give aligning the distributor again tomorrow in the daylight.

Where would I be able to see the "rear timing belt notch "? Right at the bottom of yhr engine behind the drivers side wheel?

I've also had a look at an old picture I have of the engine bay and the order I have now is correct. Only thing not right is the king lead is plugged in the other way round. That's probably not important though?

So I've tried swapping the leads 180 and no joy. It definitely tries to start then dies. I've tried wiggling the dizzy a bit clockwise and a bit counterclockwise but it just doesn't fire up fully. I've tried multiple dizzy caps as well (I now have 3). Any more ideas?

The engine was running a bit rough with occasional misfires. I took off the dizzy cap and rotor to try and clean off some of the carbon deposits on them.

Then the next day after taking the cap off, it just went from running fine to total power loss and wouldn't start again.

I think my method of getting the rotor arm off (prying against the ring) could have bent it, and when I took the dizzy off after it totally stalled the black ring cap bit wasn't seated properly.

I reckon you need to get the plugs out and have a look. Surely a plug spanner's cheaper than a dizzy?

Is it turning over rather quickly, or is it a damn good battery? I'm thinking valves, hydraulic tappets or something around there. What's its service record and what's the oil like?

Yup the leads are in the right place. I've checked against the Haynes Manual and an old photo of my engine bay (from when it worked!)