Hi is it easy enough to get the timing right again as i have purchased the locking kit and will strip it down the weekend

0k i have it all stripped down again ,and im reading that you have to take off the inlet camshaft gear is that correct i really need to get this sorted out for the morning if possible even a phone call would be great i can ring bac straight away to save anyones cost .07971880409 trevor .

Think its a big job for someone who aint got a clue ,so after looking on youtube i found a diagram and so far all is going well chain is back on and timing is all correct (I hope ) so when i get it back together tomorrow i will post on here again .Thanks for any help anyway

Valve timing is critical on any engine and there's only one way to do it, and that's the right way. You cannot get it right by putting paint marks on the pulleys. That's only slightly better than a good guess. Locking the shafts in the right place and correctly tensioning the belt/chain is the only way to get it right.

Happy your progressing but for future reference DONT REMOVE INJECTOR WIRING CONNECTORS WHEN THE ENGINE IS RUNNINIG!!

That's just a good way to kill the ECU drivers.

Buy yourself one of those cheap OpCom code readers and scan it next time.

What I'd do at this stage is fit my "CYLINDER LEAK DOWN TESTER"

Cheap one on ebay for £30> or so.

What it does in conjunction with an air compressor is inject 100 psi of air into the glow plug hole and the gauge reads the cylinder holding pressure,

!00 in and 100 held = good cylinder,

Say 100 in and 60 held air can be heard hissing from say the tail pipe would mean a bent exhaust valve.

If it's coming from the air intake an inlet valve.

Really a definative test for an engine.

You will need some way of acessing either the injector hole or glow plug hole so an adapter will be needed.

But a very useful diagnostic tool.

Start from the middle and initial 20nm (newton/meters)

once they're all at 20 nm it's tighten to 100 degrees then back to the center and tighten again to a further 100 degrees.

Center and working your way out in a circular pattern.

So you will need a degree adapter gauge.

And if you've never tightened to degrees you'll scare the s*** out of yourself doing it

You'll convince yourself your stripping the threads but they are streach bolts and it just feel scary.

I'll be honest and admit it still scares the crap out of me doing it.

I'm wondering what diagnostics the garage used?

Because an MIL lamp on means quite simply the ECU has detected a fault!!

I'd use "OpCom",

you can buy the disk and interface from Ebay for not a lot.

Provided you have a laptop to load it on to.

Meantime check the small diameter black hose from the vacuum pump that runs up to a solenoid bolted to the side of the battery box.

there's two solenoids there check the pipes on both and where on then runs down to the turbo.

This is the controlling vac' for the turbo operation.

And it sounds to me there's no turbo boost.

Your in this pretty deep so buy the "OpCom" from ebay or someone.

I've found this vehicle is only readable by genuine diagnostics so OpCom,TechII or Renaults can clip.

Others diagnostis sytems can give confusing results.