Honest John advocates regular oil/filter changes at 5000 mile intervals on VW TDI diesels. My Passat has now dropped out of its 3 year warrenty, hence I can play now. But the Passat has a under engine bay cover which is extremly fiddly to remove without a pit/ramp hence access to the drain plug is unobtainable, any comments on removing the oil via the dipstick entry (Common on marine engines) with a pump?
Comments?
Blade
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I think the suction method is designed for garages to save time, not to do a thorough job; so if that is what you intend to do, use it. My 306 HDI also has a panel under the sump (secured by 5 nuts of two different sizes, one of them seized before I got the car) but the worst part is getting at the filter. I still think waiting for the oil to drain fully is time well spent (preferably doing something else).
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any comments on removing the oil via the dipstick entry
>>(Common on marine engines) with a pump?
Yes, several:- www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?f=2&t=10...2
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I change the oil on my Volvo 2030 boat engine by pumping oil out through dipstick and when my Passat is out of warranty, I will use the same technique. The pump is available through yacht chandlers at £10/£15
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I tried using a suction pump on my Passat tdi. The suction pipe would not go far enough down the dip stick hole. I bought a set of ramps in the end. The undertray is not that difficult to remove. I'm also suspicious of pumping the oil out and not getting the gunge from the bottom of the sump.
Buy a pair of ramps and consider how much money you will save over VW costs by doing your own oil changes.
BUT don't forget to use the correct oil - the dreaded 505.01 controversy again!
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Forgot to say - the oil filter is a paper cartridge type and is dead easy to remove - it's on top of the engine and can be seen after removing the acoustic shroud. Undo the plastic cover on top of the filter housing. Don't forget to replace the rubber o rings (which should be supplied with the filter) and don't over tighten the filter cover. Also use a new copper washer on the sump plug and don't over tighten that either!
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What 505.01 (505.00) oil controversy again???????
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What 505.01 (505.00) oil controversy again??????? <<
blade: being the kind person that I am, I saved you the bother of using the search box at the top right of this site; and found the following URL for you to look up:
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?v=i&t=71...0
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I tried to change the oil in my Omega like this but didn`t meet with much success , mainly because the syphon pump I used wasn`t up to the job . In fairness it was only a cheap plastic thing and didn`t have the "suck" to get the oil flowing. The oil was synthetic so it was thin enough . I was doing it this way because the sump plug felt suspiciously tight and I didn`t want to strip the thread . Can`t see anything wrong with the theory though , I think I read that it was a recommended technique by at least one major manufacturer. Can`t say i`ve ever seen any thick gunge draining out either . not for years , clean modern oils and detergent petrols ?
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I think the big difference here is that marine engine sumps are designed to be drained by the pump method, whereas car sumps are designed to be drained from below.
IMO this method is a poor one for cars. I don't think all of the old oil will be removed possibly leaving enough behind to be a cause for concern. A trolley jack and stands set costs about the same as the pump and with a proper drain pan you can do a proper job.
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I know peopl have, in the past, been interested in one of these, and have recently found one on line. If anyone still wants one, try
www.nauticalia.com/products.php
{or more specifically tinyurl.com/2a9jh . DD}
Hope that helps
Tim{P}
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i can vouch for this got one myself for the merc also used it on the lawn mower.
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can see the convience in these but wouldnt it be better to drain the oil at the bottom sump to ensure any debris is properly drained out?
while taking my passat for a serice i noticed that vw just sucked it out the top - prob to save time! then charged me and arm and a leg for it!
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Cars which have this sytem don't usually have a sump plug so traditional draining is not possible.
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They are really intended for boats. My twin Volvos in my boat are about 3 inches from the bottom of the boat and located such that I don't even think a small child could get a drain can there. Hence syphoning them out from the dipstick 'ole. However mine was brilliant when cousins TR7 fuel tank had 1/2 gallon of water in it and needed draining and its done same for another TR owner recently. Also drains bilge water from boat with ease and gets the last drop out unlike the bilge pump which leaves 1/2" of water to slop about in.
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They are really intended for boats. My twin Volvos in my boat are about 3 inches from the bottom of the boat and located such that I don't even think a small child could get a drain can there. Hence syphoning them out from the dipstick 'ole. However mine was brilliant when cousins TR7 fuel tank had 1/2 gallon of water in it and needed draining and its done same for another TR owner recently. Also drains bilge water from boat with ease and gets the last drop out unlike the bilge pump which leaves 1/2" of water to slop about in. Oh and I'll use it on the Alfa JTD to do a 6K oil change cos the undertray looks a complete pain to remove.
Jim
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There is a company selling bigger ones on ebay for £48 if anyone wants to compare, just seach for "vacuum oil"
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can see the convience in these but wouldnt it be better to drain the oil at the bottom sump to ensure any debris is properly drained out? while taking my passat for a serice i noticed that vw just sucked it out the top - prob to save time! then charged me and arm and a leg for it!
A previous thread on the Topliner V.O.P.(made in USA) directed us to an American MB owners site. This showed that draining via the sump plug does not get as much of the debris out as one might expect.
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There\'s at least one previous thread on this type of oil pump. When I find the most recent one I\'ll merge this thread with that one to avoid repetition.
DD.
{Done.}
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However the oil is drained, car or boat, it would surely be best to tilt the engine so that the plug, or the end of the rubber pipe, is at the lowest point?
Boat engines are normally angled down at the back end, forming a natural pocket at one end of the sump. Cars often have dead flat sumps, so a small tilt one way or the other would either catch, or miss, quite a lot of oil.
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I'm inclined to put the wheel on the side opposite the sump drain plug on a kerb. This way, the oil drains down to the correct side of the sump and you get more out than if the car is on the level. Using ramps/ stands moves the oil to the back of the sump so I'm not that convinced of their effectiveness if you're getting fussy.
(Also my stands live in the house, and the car is parked on the street round the corner, so finding a good high kerb is a lot easier than then stands! Also, it mitigates the risk of some idiot driving past my car, hitting it and knocking it off the stands onto me.)
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If the front of a tdi Passat is placed on ramps, then the oil filler plug at the back of the sump, is in the ideal position to drain all the oil out. This applies to all VAG diesels.
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Well not to a '92 Audi 100 which definitely is best jacked up on the left hand side!
Here's another conundrum.
Haynes: To check gearbox level:
1. Jack up front of car & place on stands.
2. Check vehicle is level.
3. Check oil level.
Erm, if the front is up on stands, how do I get the vehicle level?
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After the initial Service (the bedding in period) will the Dealer have a problem doing elective 5000 mile interim oil changes if you are paying? Will it compromise the warrenty?
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