HJ's personal viewpoint is that a car should have an oil change at least every year or 10k miles, whichever comes first.
I spent a number of years working in the oil industry (R&D in Runcorn), and I agree with him on this.
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HJ's personal viewpoint is that a car should have an oil change at least every year or 10k miles, whichever comes first.
I also think that its sensible to have an annual change carried out for what it costs but remember that modern oils are much higher quality than oils of old and are entirely capable of managing long service intervals and stay within grade.
Don't always believe what HJ says. He still insists Supermarket fuel is substandard and that you should only use Shell Nitro when its a known fact all fuel is the same from one of several UK depots and that the only difference is the snake oil added.
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Don't always believe what HJ says. He still insists Supermarket fuel is substandard and that you should only use Shell Nitro when its a known fact all fuel is the same from one of several UK depots and that the only difference is the snake oil added.
Oh blimey, not this again. And please enlighten us all what exactly is Snake Oil?
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I too agree with HJ's philosophy on this, i suspect the OP does too because they're asking the question.
Actually with what's happened recently is it the case of going back to gut feeling/common sense ideas.
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Oh blimey, not this again. And please enlighten us all what exactly is Snake Oil?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Snake_oil
Available at every Shell garage.
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Apologies to the OP for hijacking this thread, but in answer to the above my brother is a Process Operator for a major UK oil refinery, and he knows a fair bit about petrol and diesel, and what goes into refining it from crude oil. It is true that the base stock is the same for 95RON, 98RON and diesel regardless of where you buy your fuel from, and all conforms to the relevant BS standards, but the end product consists of far more than just the base stock.
Each fuel company adds their own additves to the fuel after is has left the refinery, and it's these additives that enhance engine performance, clean and decarbonise injectors etc.
Supermarket fuel is often a couple of pence per litre cheaper than branded fuel. You can either conclude that Mr Asda and Mr Morrison are feeling generous and like to do the consumer a favour by saving him a couple of quid, or that the branded product is superior and therefore costs more. I know which one I believe and which one Skidpan believes.
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Each fuel company adds their own additves to the fuel after is has left the refinery, and it's these additives that enhance engine performance, clean and decarbonise injectors etc.
The additives are actually added at the point the fuel is put in the tanker so that casts a shadow on the validity of your information.
If the oil companies would list what they added and tests could show they were beneficial I might consider suing premium fuels. But its all top secret and that could mean its highly dangerous, a planet saving product or snake oil.
I have been using supermarket fuel pretty much exclusively for 30 years now. Over that period me and the wife have probably done 500,000 miles and never had a fuel related issue. So why should I consider paying more when Asda, Morrisons, Tesco or Sainsburys is fine. When we go on holiday we have to use non-supermarket fuel, there are no supermarkets. Have any of our cars run any better, definetely not.
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Additives may be added before the fuel leaves the storage depot, but not before it leaves the refinery. Also do racing cars use supermarket fuel? Probably not. You say your cars haven't suffered any loss of performance having run on supermarket fuel, but more likely you just haven't noticed it. One tank may not be that noticeble, but over time it could be very noticable.
My old car, a 2003 Skoda Octavia 1.9TDi ASV engine most certainly did lose that bit of edge when running on Morrisons fuel. Over time I noticed that it just didn't perform quite as well as it used to, but I didn't know what it was at the time. I plugged in VCDS and checked the performance of the MAF actual value against the ECM expected value and nothing untoward showed up. I did the same with the turbo boost pressure and EGR duty cycle, and pump timing base setting. No faults or inconsistencies were found and so I couldn't establish what it was. In the end I decided to use the local Texaco station rather than Morrisons, and within a couple of hundred miles its performance was back to as it used to be, leaving me in no doubt that branded fuel was better. A work colleague with a V8 Range Rover told me he experienced exactly the same, and was also in no doubt. Nothing major, just that little bit of extra zip.
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I too agree with HJ's philosophy on this
I don't. For me, science trumps philosophy. With modern longlife oils and better metals there is no need for a dogmatic annual oil change. However, I think it sensible for an early oil and filter change for a new engine at around 8000 miles by which time it should be nicely bedded in, and from then on much longer changes at 20,000, 35,000, 50,000 etc if a big slow unturboed engine; but every 10k if smaller or more stressy. And if it has a turbo and/or timing chains, buy expensive oil, otherwise ordinary cheaper semi-synthetic will suffice.
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I don't. For me, science trumps philosophy.
For me the proof is in the pudding.
I've driven lorries for a lifetime, these days with Gucci oils our 5 year lease lorries are sometimes needing engine rebuilds by 1m k's,
(our 62 plate German lorries came off the road for bottom end work at 12 months when they found ''apparent contamination'' in the oil, in truth probably another VW group non recall),
the rather better serviced Cummins of 70/80's vintage i drove would cover 1m miles easily and showed no appreciable wear.
Also on those overmaintained:-) engines in all those miles a turbo failure was simply unheard of, fast forward to today and they're stupidly regular.
Not as any of this matters, i'll do it my way and you'll do it yours, i suspect either of us could suffer massive engine failure through no fault of our own at any time...probably you first...:-)))))
One could argue its in a makers interests for vehicles not to last indefinately, some probably learned their lesson with the superb late 80's and 90's designs, they won't make that mistake again.
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the rather better serviced Cummins of 70/80's vintage i drove would cover 1m miles easily and showed no appreciable wear.
Also on those overmaintained:-) engines in all those miles a turbo failure was simply unheard of, fast forward to today and they're stupidly regular.
Interesting to hear that, GB, I wonder if this is because 70s turbos were plain and simple units matched to suit the normal operating rev range of the engine: nothing much would kill them if provided with good oil suppply and with clean, adequate air filters.
From the 80s onward, though, wastegates became almost universal, at first controlled by boost pressure agains a spring, nowadays controlled by the ECU (as are the Variable Geometry type as initially used by Iveco), possibly failed wastegate are a primary cause of turbo failures.
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Interesting to hear that, GB, I wonder if this is because 70s turbos were plain and simple units matched to suit the normal operating rev range of the engine: nothing much would kill them if provided with good oil suppply and with clean, adequate air filters.
From the 80s onward, though, wastegates became almost universal, at first controlled by boost pressure agains a spring, nowadays controlled by the ECU (as are the Variable Geometry type as initially used by Iveco), possibly failed wastegate are a primary cause of turbo failures.
TBH i think the reliability of lorry turbos, and cars, is down to maintenance and a bit of driver care., (though take your point about simpler parts and probably less stressed being as the engines were bigger and didn't have every ounce wrung out of them so running easy continually.)
Fresh oil regularly given, or more importantly, the nasties removed regularly, and then the engine and its ancilliaries being allowed to warm up a bit and cool down a bit in the right order before and after hard work.
It's one of my things i have to do, i will not be told to start and drive away in a lorry, just aint doing it, similarly i'm not shutting straight down no matter how often they tell me the maker says its got water cooled this that and the other and its no longer necessary.
So far, in well over 3 million miles, mostly in turbo Diesels i'm yet to have a turbo failure i can recall.
Oh, by the way, even if the box is automated manual, as most now are, i still change the gears myself because i'm controlling the revs, not seeing the revs go unecessarily high at nearly every junction because second rate programming can't cope with moving junctions.
I have a simple balancing act argument for them when they try to come the idling wastes fuel current mantra...basically it goes like this..in my left hand i have a cupful of fuel used for warm up/cool downs for a week, in my right hand is two turbochargers, the cost of a wrecker capable of pulling 44 tons in, and down time and loss of revenue to fix, not counting the infinite cost of a customer let down...i'll take the left hand every time...anyway mines the best on fuel so they've got no argument.
I'll let you know if my method has worked again in two years time when my current twin turbo steed is replaced, so far out of the three identical 62 platers its had no faults other than a silly electrical problem with an aftermarket product pumping equipment relay, and the aforementioned bottom end pull down which all of them had...the others have spent a fair time at the workshops between them with various problems, one of them in particular using copious amounts of water, but it's early days yet.
Edited by gordonbennet on 01/10/2015 at 17:47
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I do love how everyone goes on about 'modern' synthetic/longlife oils, and how wonderful they must be.
Funnily enough, it seems to be the same people who HATE 'branded' premium fuels, insisting that they're no better than cheapo supermarket stuff.
There is a slight discrepancy there. In one respect, they're denying any advances (fuel), but in the other respect, they're claiming wonderful technological advances (oil)
As I said, I worked at a major refinery location for a number of years (12 years, actually), and I worked in oil R&D during all that time. I don't any more, as, eventually, I grew to hate the commute. There was also talk about the R&D work being moved, and I certainly wasn't going to re-locate.
So, my (knowledgeable) viewpoint is this, as previously stated : Change your oil and filter every 10k miles / annually, whichever comes first. In addition, ensure the old oil is removed via the sump, NOT through siphoning from the dipstick.
If John F or anyone else would like to refute that, then feel free. But let's see your background too, to actually see if you know what you're talking about, or if it's just some random spouting off.
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I do love how everyone goes on about 'modern' synthetic/longlife oils, and how wonderful they must be.
Funnily enough, it seems to be the same people who HATE 'branded' premium fuels, insisting that they're no better than cheapo supermarket stuff.
There is a slight discrepancy there. In one respect, they're denying any advances (fuel), but in the other respect, they're claiming wonderful technological advances (oil)
As I said, I worked at a major refinery location for a number of years (12 years, actually), and I worked in oil R&D during all that time. I don't any more, as, eventually, I grew to hate the commute. There was also talk about the R&D work being moved, and I certainly wasn't going to re-locate.
So, my (knowledgeable) viewpoint is this, as previously stated : Change your oil and filter every 10k miles / annually, whichever comes first. In addition, ensure the old oil is removed via the sump, NOT through siphoning from the dipstick.
If John F or anyone else would like to refute that, then feel free. But let's see your background too, to actually see if you know what you're talking about, or if it's just some random spouting off.
This has always been my philosophy too. Regular engine oil and filter changes are the single best thing you can do to keep your engine in good condition. Those who prefer to change their engine oil on a mileage basis, no matter how long it takes to accumulate those miles then please carry on. The motor repair trade needs people like you.
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So, my (knowledgeable) viewpoint is this, as previously stated : Change your oil and filter every 10k miles / annually, whichever comes first. In addition, ensure the old oil is removed via the sump, NOT through siphoning from the dipstick.
If John F or anyone else would like to refute that, then feel free. But let's see your background too, to actually see if you know what you're talking about, or if it's just some random spouting off.
<<LongLife Servicing and Castrol SLX Professional Powerflow Longlife III How advanced engineering and oil has changed the way your Volkswagen is serviced. LongLife Service regimes The LongLife Service regime is so called because there are no set service intervals and, depending on how you drive your vehicle, and the conditions of use, a service will be required anywhere between 9,000 miles or 12 months (whichever occurs first), up to a maximum of 20,000* miles or 24 months (whichever occurs first). This LongLife service regime has been made possible due to the development of new Volkswagen engines with the latest technically advanced LongLife oil. These engines use built-in sensors that continually monitor the oil quality, making it possible to enjoy reliable and confident motoring for up to a maximum of 20,000* miles or 24 months (whichever occurs first). *Please consult your Volkswagen Retailer or repairer for full information.>>
This is from the horse's mouth, as it were, and with my background of a scientific education and updating myself since then, it seems reasonable to me. I don't need my engines to last 1m miles - 1/4million is enough, thanks.
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<< This is from the horse's mouth, as it were, and with my background of a scientific education and updating myself since then, it seems reasonable to me. I don't need my engines to last 1m miles - 1/4million is enough, thanks. >>
It's a pity the screed you quote is from VW - in the current climate :-)
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<< This is from the horse's mouth, as it were, and with my background of a scientific education and updating myself since then, it seems reasonable to me. I don't need my engines to last 1m miles - 1/4million is enough, thanks. >>
It's a pity the screed you quote is from VW - in the current climate :-)
This is from Millers oils, a firm which I believe has a good reputation. If it's good enough for them, it's good enough for me.
Use
: Extended drain (max)
Intervals
: Change 30000 km / 24 months
Products
Premium
: XF Longlife 5w30 (5862)
Energy Efficient Nanodrive
: EE Longlife 5w30 (7877)
Trident
: Trident Longlife 5w30 (5999)
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Unfortunately, Millers don't do any of the research themselves into the oils. So taking that sort of quote from their website is about as valid as taking it from Audi's website.
They are, in the trade speak 'oil blenders'.
Want to try again ?
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Want to try again ?
Here is an extract from an article written by Jeff Youngs of J D Power who appears to be an authoritative and knowledgeable person; I have put the link below it. My bold type.
One other reason to consider synthetic motor oil is extended periods between oil changes. Petroleum-based oils generally require replacement every 3,500 to 7,500 miles, depending on service use. Synthetic oils can easily offer double the service life as their chemical composition does not break down over time. Several manufacturers have taken advantage of this and supply synthetic oil in their vehicles from the factory to extend oil-change intervals and extend engine longevity. Check your owner's manual or ask your service advisor if synthetic motor oil may be right for your vehicle or driving style.
www.jdpower.com/cars/articles/tips-advice/syntheti...s
I am now beginning to realise why it takes so long for scientific advances to gain widespread acceptance - I think there are probably still people on the planet who think the sun goes round the earth just like the moon does.
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<< Here is an extract from an article written by Jeff Youngs of J D Power who appears to be an authoritative and knowledgeable person >>
Appearances can be deceptive, as we all know. In a previous incarnation I was a chemist, and the passage in your bold type does not ring very authoritatively in my ears: 'Chemical composition does not break down over time'. Any oil will gradually degrade when heated to several hundred °C and sheared between rotating metal surfaces. Synthetic resists better than mineral, but not indefinitely.
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Any oil will gradually degrade when heated to several hundred °C and sheared between rotating metal surfaces. Synthetic resists better than mineral, but not indefinitely.
I was told by an oil specialist that the reason they state X mileage or X months is because of the thermal cycling. He said that cars that do low or high mileages tend to do approx the same amount of cold-hot-cold cycles per day.
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