beingo van hdi1.6 - bleeding brakes

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Tue 17 Feb 2015 21:50
beingo van hdi1.6 - bleeding brakes - dixieliners

Took to garage to have rear brake cylinders replaced a couple of days later brake pedal nearly touches the floor if you lightly push pedal released and apply brake pedal all OK thought might just want bleeding. Took it back to garage they say they can't bleed the be makes maybe master cylinder or brake servo anyone have any ideas

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Wed 18 Feb 2015 06:39
beingo van hdi1.6 - bleeding brakes - mss1tw

No ideas but just to let you know my 54 plate has had 2 new master cylinders and both garages have had a tough time bleeding it. The second M.C. was fitted specifically as they just could not bleed it with the existing one fitted. It was still a pain and they ended up keeping overnight with a rod holding the pedal down - but it did bleed.

So they aren't trying anything on.

A new M.C. is where I'd start if it's proving tricky to diagnose.

Edited by mss1tw on 18/02/2015 at 06:39

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Wed 18 Feb 2015 08:24
beingo van hdi1.6 - bleeding brakes - jc2

Possibly needs vacuum bleeding rather than pressure bleeding?

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Wed 18 Feb 2015 10:34
beingo van hdi1.6 - bleeding brakes - Railroad.
There's no science to bleeding brakes (or cooling systems) so I don't know why people make such a big deal about it. It's about removing the air in the system. The most effective way to do it it to either pressure bleed or vacuum bleed. Air cannot get trapped in the system, but if the pedal is pumped without allowing the master cylinder time to recover with each pump then air just gets pushed back and forth. If the procedure is carried out properly then it should present no problems.

Also on your vehicle make sure the rear brakes are properly set up and adjusted with the handbrake slackened off. Adjust the handbrake cable last.
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Wed 18 Feb 2015 16:38
beingo van hdi1.6 - bleeding brakes - Railroad.
In addition to what I just said, the master cylinder can be easily tested. Remove all the brake pipes from the master cylinder and make up two pipes to 'dead end' it. Use those two pipes and screw them into the MC, tightening one end of each pipe but leaving the other end slightly loose. Get an assistant to gently push the brake pedal to bleed the air out then tighten the pipes. Gently push the brake pedal and then apply a bit more pressure. Be careful not to put your whole weight on the pedal and force it. You could damage it if you do. If the pedal is hard then the MC is perfectly good. If the pedal still goes to the floor then fluid is passing the pistons and the master cylinder must be replaced.
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Wed 18 Feb 2015 17:50
beingo van hdi1.6 - bleeding brakes - gordonbennet

I suspect its the rear cylinders causing the problem, it wouldn't be the first nor last time.

Worse example i ever had of slave cyls refusing to bleed was on Series Landrovers, drums all round so 6 slave cyls moving in and out and the air with them as you attempted to pump bleed them, didn't have a pressure bleeder in those days, whether it would have done the job i don't know.

How i sorted it was thus...and if you are really struggling this might be worth trying on the Berly...i removed the drums and used G Clamps to secure the slave cyls in at their start point, quick bleed out remove clamps and hey presto the most solid brake pedal known to man.

You could wire the slaves in tight if G Clamps unavailable or difficult to set up.

Hopefully it won't come to this though, a pressure bleeder should do the trick.

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Wed 18 Feb 2015 23:41
beingo van hdi1.6 - bleeding brakes - dixieliners

I suspect its the rear cylinders causing the problem, it wouldn't be the first nor last time.

Worse example i ever had of slave cyls refusing to bleed was on Series Landrovers, drums all round so 6 slave cyls moving in and out and the air with them as you attempted to pump bleed them, didn't have a pressure bleeder in those days, whether it would have done the job i don't know.

How i sorted it was thus...and if you are really struggling this might be worth trying on the Berly...i removed the drums and used G Clamps to secure the slave cyls in at their start point, quick bleed out remove clamps and hey presto the most solid brake pedal known to man.

You could wire the slaves in tight if G Clamps unavailable or difficult to set up.

Hopefully it won't come to this though, a pressure bleeder should do the trick.

The garage replaced m/c said they can't get the brakes any better prob take it to citreon

Thanks for the replies guys

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