|
Thats a blighter, i suspect you are on the right track, presumably you've bled the cooling system properly and its not just an air lock?...yeah i know, wishful thinking.
About the only money i would spend on this would be a compression test, then decide from the results, and that might be more expensive than it sounds depending on how stubborn the injectors are to remove, possible cracked head too.
I think you can only look at this in the value of your car, that model even if yours is an otherwise prime example isn't loved and the values reflect this, i suspect all but the simplest of fixes will be far more than the car is worth...though i'm none to talk having spent far more than my old MB was worth over the years in TLC.
You could try keeping it topped up, bleed air first, rad cap loose and try a trial run, if thats impossible with reasonable top ups its probably terminal.
Best of luck with sorting this out, i suppose recovery home is possible if you have the right cover...on that subject don't some breakdown policies cover replacement car?
The only good thing is that if you are coming back to the UK, after your presumed holiday, cars will be cheap enough to buy with mostly reluctant buyers as the UK weather deteriorates.
|
|
Was moving to Spain, but plans cut short.
YES did all you stated, bled the water, let it run and cool down, but when the cap is on tight the presure is just too much, whistles now like mums kettle, (Just the HOT water trying to escape)
I do expect blown HG plus suspect a crack in Head.......
BTW there is puffs of smoke from the header tank, NO oil like, or water in the sump according to dip stick.
So, what now park it flat and BURN it, ...nahhh i will remove the head and take a look, may just get lucky, a head gasket kit, issue is the local Renault Dealer is closed till next week.
Yes just looked on silly bay for another could be cheaper fly up grab another and return pick up the wife and pet, and continue on.
Thanks for your comment -
|
|
What GB was saying was to leave the rad cap loose so there would be no pressure build-up. It just depends how big the leak is as to whether this will work.
I managed to limp an old Citroen CX 2.2 Diesel 100 miles like this towing a caravan. Had to top-up the coolant a couple of times.
|
|
I drove a Citroen XM for 4 years with the cap loose and lost no water at all, but it was only a slight leak, enough to blow the water out if you pushed it hard. If yours is ejecting water from the filler when you start it the likely culpret is a cracked head I'm afraid.
|
|
As GB says. Try gentle running with no cap on, Might get you home with breaks, take plenty of water with you. HG though, almost certain. Good luck.
|
|
Yes I did follow GB's comment and taken note
Just came back from a 2km drive, it is just spitting out all over the place so applied the Cap on just 2 turns and a little tape to make it not remove or go tighter and it took 8-mins and boiled all away.
Noticed one thing, there is like a water (Smoke) coming from the header tank, when you place nose it smells oily or burnt diesel, not buring Radatior smell.
I came back, took cap off and it took 3 ltrs of water and thats just 2 km there and 2 back.
Also this time check dip-stick and OIL OK, but I removed the oil filler cap, and for the 1st time noticed a slight Milky layer forming on it, so there is a tell tall sign the water is now getting into the engine area.
I do value all comments I am tossing up options here.
|
|
It's a cracked head or a badly broken head gasket...
So basically it's scrap unless you can repair it to last until you get home. Which means head off and new gasket... And if the head is ctacked, that will last 10miles (if lucky).
By now, you probably have warped the head...so machining required even if it is not cracked..
|
|
OK the latest
Run it Idle for 20-mins, let the air bleed again, the fan cuts in OK, this time I place the cap on 1 - 1/2 turns and made it secure, went up the road, (YES lot's of power still) white smoke from exhaust, then went slowly, drove 10 km round trip, Temp guage went to normal, and thought on the last 1-km would give it some power and let it rev over 2,000 RPM, and noticed the water emitting from header tank, returned back to motel and let it idle.
Removed the cap, and noticed the headder tank dry, but still squirts coming from engine turning over, also topped it up to just below the min mark, placed cap back on left it for 10-mins more and temp did not move, but was hot with fan cutting in and out.
So, think, its a headgasket, anyway here is what I am going to try, get up while still dark, and drive in 6th gear not letting revs go above 1,800 and see how far I get, pulling up every now and then to check water level.
Yes just filled 40 ltrs of water in bottles so have ample, we are only 160km from spain where parts are much cheaper than France, plus they will be open not like here.
Wish me luck, and YES I will give you all a progress report (When able to get net)
Cheers all and appreciate those comments, gave me lots to think.
|
The head gasket has failed without a doubt. As previously mentioned, this will be a very expensive job and will almost certainly exceed the value of the car.
The coolant pressure cap serves two purposes. Firstly it's an overall safety relief valve in the event of the cooling system pressure getting too high, but in theory the cooling system pressure should never reach the rating of the cap (15psi) if the engine is dissipating heat properly, since the pressure is regulated by the temperature. Secondly the cap allows air back into the system as the engine cools and the coolant contracts. Without this the hoses would be sucked flat.
Edited by Railroad. on 25/12/2014 at 17:46
|
|
Also have the heaters on full the whole trip and keep a v careful eye on the temp gauge. What's your oil like? Check that too. Can you get some Radweld or similar into it? Might help. Suggest that if you make it, the car is probably scrap though! Good adventure--i'd try it. Best of luck!
|
|
Yes, I will go look for Rad Weld, not sure what they call it here in France, little hard not knowing all the lingo.
It's due to snow around here and towards Pau / Spainish Border tomorrow morning, so will be a slow cold trip, BTW I just removed the Thermostat - had some gasket Glue and made sure this was replaced well,just finished that little job, handy with 10 mil socket and vise-grips, Job Done.
Replaced the thermo housing, No Leaks from removing this Thermo, this I hope will help the circulation and give me more confidence, in driving towards destination.
Till tomorrow (Fingers Crossed) we only live life once may as well try all hurdles before me.
|
|
I wonder if you can find any K-Seal (or whatever the magic new CHG potion is called) down there, as Bazza i'd be tempted to throw something in and try to complete the trip gently.
We'll be thinking of you, keep posting when all this is just an amusing after dinner anecdote for friends.
Edited by gordonbennet on 25/12/2014 at 19:27
|
|
Any Supermarche or Hypermarche will have it or if there's a Nor Auto nearby. it will be called Stop Fuite Radiateur or Anti Fuite Radiateur or similar. Use the whole can or two, nothing to lose and it should help.
|
|
Egg white. Un oeuf will do it, in the absence of anything better.
|
|
As others have suggested you need K-Seal or SteelSeal - not Radweld. The problem with this situation is that the pressure will force all of the stuff out before it does any good.
Ideally, you need to identify which cylinder the pressure is coming from and loosen the injector to allow the pressure out (on a petrol you would remove the spark plug) and then run it so the K-Seal or equivalent can then be on the low pressure side of the leak and has a chance to plug it.
|
|
UPDATE !!!!
Well here is what happened.
Applied a Stop Forte, as unable to locate k-seal any place here, run it for 1-hour and while the circulation was working, it was still pushing out water from the header tank.
Decided to try make way down the road, the Temp Guage never moved above 1/2 way, (Normaly sits just under 1/3rd way)
Went 10 km, then pulled over and noticed that there was a lot of black smoke emmiting from exhaust.
Went only 2km more and STOP - LOSS LOSS OIL Preasure light came on.
Pulled off into a parking area, turned it off and let it cool down, checked oil level and OK, but a very strong small of oil coming from engine area, plus small of burning oil when you take the oil filler cap off.
Started it up, (This time very hard to start) got it going and POP
CATUS, KAPUT........no oil presure within the engine, the engine stalled, cut-out, and not able to start again.
Oil seals gone some place - Cant be bothered any more, think to the Turbo area....
Well, as for my role, I tried, so hitched into town, went on Angloinfo, placed a notice of (Car Wanted must have tow hitch) and was offered many, decided on getting last night a Merc Vito Van 2.2 Turbo, with Rego and with Two Bar and 1/4 tank of fuel, got this for 400 Euro
But was 250km away, spent the day on a number of trains, got it (Van) at 3pm last night, drove back to the Laguna and my Trailer, hooked the trailer up, (No Problems) removed all personal effects, to Van, and right now in a Motel.
Today (6am) will go back to the Laguna, take a look, but feel a LOSS Cause, will strip it today of my Mag Tyres, Xeon Headlights, turbo and CD and rear Changer and outside wing mirrors which should get me most of my money back place this into the Merc Van, and continue my 2014 Xmas trip to Spain.
New Years Res.....NEVER get another Renault....well never 2.2 dci motor.
The best to all who are reading this.......you may find this post Valuable......and amusing....but this is the facts.
Over and Out
Col.
|
|
10/10 for effort in trying to nurse the knackered car the rest of the journey! Can't win 'em all.
|
|
PD, your post was only read today.
BUT as to my replay, I just posted (YES) Number 1 Injector was under presure so I made this presure release, and while harder to start, did this to ease any presure back into the head area.
However, for others, if you do have a cracked head, HG or other build up, when you start make sure the top cowling cover is off, look at the injector area, turn over the motor and any signs of smoke (Like Buring white/blue) is a sign of presure within that cyclinder.
PD is 100% right, loosen the injector or if spart, make it so the build up can enit, when placing in any additavies.
PD = Good Point
Cheers
Col
|
|
Latest Update
In Spain arrive with replacement 400 Euro Merc Van, as stated No issues at all
Bye Bye Renault
|
Latest Update
In Spain arrive with replacement 400 Euro Merc Van, as stated No issues at all
Bye Bye Renault
Are you just scrapping it in France?
|
|
I have done it.....
Removed the 5 Tyres, alloys, EU Headlights, CD + CD 6 Stacker plus airflow meter......
Called a wrecker gave address, and said
Send it to DREAMLAND
OH ! Under the rear seat is the fuel level area, I opened it and extracted 50 ltrs of Diesel
placed that into my 400 Euro Merc 2001 Van, loaded the extra parts, hooked the trailer on...and Bobs ya Uncle
|
|
