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Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - John F

He's still at it. Yet again, 'all engines....need an annual oil change' .!!!!!

I do wonder if HJ is subsidised by the oil industry. Does anyone with even basic physics/chemistry qualifications [that's pre-uni A-level, by the way] seriously think that great aunt Minnie's Ford Fociesta needs an oil change after 3,000 miles and 365 days of twice weekly trips to the shops and the occasional social drive? Quite apart from the expense it causes unnecessary pollution.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - gordonbennet

I quite agree with HJ on this, there are always exceptions, but for the cost involved there seems little point in not doing so.

Who are we supposed to listen to instead, makers of certain cars who's engines and gearboxes, complete with their long life service intervals, are proving to have anything but a long life in too many cases.

Each to their own, HJ's advice is good common sense preventative maintenance, and cheap enough if loaf used, if you don't want to do an annual service then don't.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Armitage Shanks {p}

www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=28812. Cheap enough and is generally thought that oil should be changed on "time" and not just "Mileage"

Quote from Pistonheads

"My missus used to drive 1.1 miles each way to work, despite my nags. Fair enough when she was working late nights, but not on the 8 til 4 watch.


Checked the oil prior to us doing a proper journey and saw the old mayonnaise round the dipstick and panicked about HGF. Asked her if she'd overheated the car by accident at any point recently. "Overheated?" she says, "It barely gets out of the blue."

So yes, short journeys wreck your oil and therefore your engine in due course and your non stainless steel exhausts / catalytic converters because they never get up to proper running temperature."

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - mss1tw

This is classed as extreme use by all manufacturers, as it never gets hot enough to burn off condensate and gets nothing but the harsher operating environment of cold running

IMO anyway!

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Wackyracer

He's still at it. Yet again, 'all engines....need an annual oil change' .!!!!!

I do wonder if HJ is subsidised by the oil industry. Does anyone with even basic physics/chemistry qualifications [that's pre-uni A-level, by the way] seriously think that great aunt Minnie's Ford Fociesta needs an oil change after 3,000 miles and 365 days of twice weekly trips to the shops and the occasional social drive? Quite apart from the expense it causes unnecessary pollution.

You seem to forget that short journeys on a cold engine are far worse than long motorway journeys with a warm engine.

On a quick jouney to the shops, The engine is not at operating temperature and therefore will be running a rich mixture, Some of this excess petrol will find it's way into the oil for sure.

Then there is the fact that the oil will become acidic due to contamination from combustion deposits that get past the pistons.

It only costs me £10 a year to change the oil and 30mins of my time. I don't think that is a waste of money.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - RobJP

He's still at it. Yet again, 'all engines....need an annual oil change' .!!!!!

I do wonder if HJ is subsidised by the oil industry. Does anyone with even basic physics/chemistry qualifications [that's pre-uni A-level, by the way] seriously think that great aunt Minnie's Ford Fociesta needs an oil change after 3,000 miles and 365 days of twice weekly trips to the shops and the occasional social drive? Quite apart from the expense it causes unnecessary pollution.

How would a degree in Chemistry, and a couple of decades working in oil development and testing do you ?

Because that's what I've got, and I'll support HJ's viewpoint entirely.

Out of interest, as you seem to believe HJ (and myself, and others) are in the wrong, care to tell us all YOUR qualifications and experience in this field ?

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - madf

Well, I have a degree in running car engines for short periods of time over decades - and changing oil and filters every year.

Or rather my wife does teyh driving and I do the maintenance. Our 17 year old Peugeot 106 diesel was 17 years old when it was written off: it had done about 55,0000 miles from new. It burned no oil and the engine was untouched .. (the HG was going but that was due to the liner iussue on the 1.4D..)

We previously ran oroginal Minis on the same diet.. average journey length 1.3 miles. One self destructed when the rubber band timing chain tensioner decided to enter the oil via the oil pump. The others survived mechanically..pity about the bodies..

A stated above, DIY oil and filter changes take 30 mins at most and cost £30 tops. Well worth it as an insurance policy..

I've seen the black death sludge on Fiestas where the same treatment has been accompanied with no oil changes.

HJ's advice is spot on...especially for little old ladies...

IIRC the OP is the one who believes in running for 30 years on the original brake and radiator fluid...

Edited by madf on 22/09/2014 at 14:38

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Gibbo_Wirral

As for the "pollution" the OP mentions, where? Oil is widely recycled nowadays. Or maybe he just pours it down the drain.......

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Bolt

HJ's advice is spot on...especially for little old ladies...

IIRC the OP is the one who believes in running for 30 years on the original brake and radiator fluid...

The OP is not the only one who thinks like that,there are plenty of drivers that do it,not so sure about the £30 oil change though

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - madf

The OP is not the only one who thinks like that,there are plenty of drivers that do it,not so sure about the £30 oil change though

Buy from ECP.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Bolt

The OP is not the only one who thinks like that,there are plenty of drivers that do it,not so sure about the £30 oil change though

Buy from ECP.

I dont trust their parts,but agree with HJ, my sil wont change her oil in her Fiesta untill its burnt off and it wont start....then has the front to blame poor quality oil, in 3 years its run out twice

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - mss1tw

I dont trust their parts,but agree with HJ, my sil wont change her oil in her Fiesta untill its burnt off and it wont start....then has the front to blame poor quality oil, in 3 years its run out twice

Says a lot for Ford durability, how old is it?

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Bolt

Its a Y reg with the endura 1.2 unit,it needs new valve seals but she has been told by someone else theres nothing wrong with it...I disagree

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Cyd

I was going to blow my own trumpet as I have a Physics A level, Chemistry O level and a degree in mechanical engineering. And have been an Automotive Engineer for 30 years. Also used to build rally cars.

And I support HJs assertion in principle.

Cold start enrichment (choke as we used to call it), although very precisely controlled by the fuel injection system, is still a necessary component of starting a cold engine. Excess fuel condenses onto the walls of the inlet tract and the cylinders and some of this raw fuel finds its way past the piston rings into the crankcase oil. Also, due to enrichment there are increased levels of combustion product some of which finds its way into the crankcase. Once the engine (and oil) is thoroughly warmed through this excess fuel and combustion product will be evaporated out of the oil with only small amounts of residue (heavy components) left over (which the oils detergent package can handle). If the car only ever does short journeys and isn't getting good runs when thoroughly warmed through, then this excess fuel remains in the oil and attacks the long chain polymers and also uses up the detergent package quicker. This reduces the oils ability to lubricate effectively almost immediately and as little as 8% fuel dilution can cause a crankcase explosion..

When started from cold, different parts of the engine warm up to operating temperature at different rates. Typically, the top of the engine (usually where a set of cams and associated gear operates) is the last area to get thoroughly warmed through. When cold, the production of varnish and sludge due to the reaction of excess fuel and combustion product with the oil compounds is increased. Again, these compounds will be cleaned away (mostly) once the engine is thoroughly warm. Again, if the engine is only doing short journeys these compounds will remain and the engine will start to sludge up, often in the cam galleries and sludge will also settle into the base of the sump if the car is only driven occasionally.

Also when running from cold, condensation forms inside the engine. Some of this water mixes with the oil. It evaporates off once thoroughly warm, but builds up over short journeys. This water reduces the viscosity of the oil and promotes corrosion in vital parts of the engine.

Three engines I've direct experience with are the Rover V8 (ala SD1 and Range Rover) and my B207R in my Saab 9-3 Aero and the Toyota 998 vvti in my wifes C1. Due to the processes outlined above, the Rover motor was prone to sludging up its rocker galleries and the walls of the vee. 3000 mile oil changes were essential for good longevity. On the Saab motor (same basic engine in various GM cars) part of the oil from the cam gallery drains back to the sump through the cam chain housing, lubricating the cam and balancer chains on the way. Any sludging up of the chain end of the cam gallery reduces the amount of oil draining over the chain. This gets gradually worse until the chain is starved of sufficient oil and failure [expensive] becomes inevitable (the chain is otherwise quite robust). Frequent oil changes with a flush each time (5k) keep this at bay. On the Toyota motor it's power output is low and in the winter the air flow around the top of the engine prevents the cam chamber casing from thoroughly warming up even on longer runs. As a result the cam cover gains a layer of mayo (yes, I have removed the cam cover and seen this). So I change the oil before the winter and again after the winter but with a flush to get rid of the mayo.

On top of this, driving hard also mechanically and thermally strains the oil. My Saab is tuned and puts out 260hp and 360Nm from a 2litre turbocharged petrol. When being driven with plenty of "clog" the turbo glows orange quite readily (petrol turbo exhaust gas temperatures can touch 950C or more) putting plenty of thermal strain on the oil as it passes through the bearings. The mechanical strain on the oil as it passes through the main and big ends will be considerable when under sustained acceleration on the motorway in 6th. These thermal and mechanical stresses degade the oil. Any sludging or varnishing of the oil supply lines to these critical parts will further strain the oil as the supply is constricted. This effect will accelerate over time if left unchecked. Indeed, oil supply issues are a major cause of turbo failure on many cars (source: a conversation with garrett engineer at JLRs warranty warehouse). Frequent oil changes with flushes can slow this process considerably, or even stop it altogether.

I've known several engine engineers over the years and met other knowledgable engineers in relevant fields. the advice has always ben consistant. More frequent oil changes are good for the longevity of your engine. Remember, car engines and the associated service regimes are designed to give an average life expectancy of around 120 to 150 thousand miles over about 12 years and also to satisfy the demands of fleets for lower "cost of ownership". Most manufacturers stipulate that low mileage is regarded as arduous conditions. So, if you want to maintain your engine "like new" especially if you do low miles, then change the oil more frequently. If you don't mind wearing it out (possible causing premature MoT failure or even low end-of-life age due to uneconomic to repair as well as reduced economy as it ages), then leave that old oil in and save a few pennies now.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - nortones2

CyD might be familiar with this: www.serioussaab.co.uk/articles_pages/sludge.html re Saab turbo engines.

Oil supply to pump is blocked by sludge blocking the oil pickup strainer.

Author points out that damage starts immediately if semi-synth oils are used in turbo engines. Frequent changes (6000 miles) needed even with full synthetic.

Seems to back up HJ too.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Trilogy

My Merc specialist advised every other year servicing for my 1996 E300D, as I do a maximum of 3,000 miles a year. It has a mixture of journey lengths, with 40 miles plus being most common.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Cyd

Thanks for that NT. Doesn't cover my model specifically, but there are plenty of cars that do suffer from clogged strainers. Diesel Mazdas spring to mind.

I always include a flush with my changes and my engine oil is now noticeably cleaner at drain time than it was when I first got it.

I note that the article suggests using a piece of welding wire to probe into the sump to see if it picks out any sludge. A much better solution IMO is to use a endoscope through the sump plug hole. Perfectly functional endoscopes for DIY use can be had off eBay from about £40 and I believe any garage worth its salt should have at least a semi pro version (£less than 200 quid investment).

I've always believed in frequent oil changes and used to change the Mobil 1 in my rally car after every event! I believe it's even more critical with a turbo - the clearances in the bearings are simply so small that any varnish build up will cause premature failure.

When I bought my Saab, I sold my Rover 800 Vitesse Sport to a ROC enthusiast. I'd had it for 11 years and bought it off a car nut. It had 175k on the clock and the engine had never needed any repairs, ever. I even removed the cam cover for the buyer - clean and shiney inside with only the tiniest traces of sludge and varnish in the oil traps that inevitably exist in the cam chamber.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - nortones2

Once a year is enough for me, but I'm convinced using the right oil and changing it before low-lying sediment builds up (which won't be shown on oil analysis) is good practice. The endoscope is a good idea. Can envisage looking under the floor-boards to save crawling along in the cellar as an added bonus.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Andrew-T

Does anyone with even basic physics/chemistry qualifications [that's pre-uni A-level, by the way] seriously think that great aunt Minnie's Ford Fociesta needs an oil change after 3,000 miles and 365 days of twice weekly trips to the shops and the occasional social drive?

I may have a more advanced physics/chemistry qual. than the OP, albeit some 50 years ago. I agree with the other replies, though I don't give my second car an annual oil change even tho it only does about 2000 miles. That is because I only drive it occasionally, for about 40-mile trips. The engine is always fully warmed through; no condensation accumulates in the oil and no mayo in the cam cover. I change the oil when it starts to darken noticeably.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - The Gingerous One

All I know is "Oil is cheaper than engines".

And low mileage engines can often equate to low-maintenance, "yeah it's 12k service intervals but I only do 5k/ year..."

Just think of all that extra work the oil has to do in a turbo engine, turbo is running hot and the oil has to lube & cool it. yet some cars can apparently not be serviced for 20k miles ? I'll be steering clear of those....

So I agree with HJ, stuff the manufacturers recommendations, 10/12k or once a year.

Stu

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - John F

Well, it looks as though HJ's supporters are in the majority here! However, most of the arguments in favour of annual changes for a 3K per annum engine seem to be based on the damaging effects of short journeys.

Great aunt Minnie's small modern engine will warm up quickly; is three or four miles a 'short journey'? Statistically, most journeys are short, so presumably those who disagree with me and make very regular but short journeys are changing their oil every three or four thousand miles, are they? The logic of their arguments dictates that they should do so.

Cyd, your post was excellent, and I agree that one or two of the engines you mention make more demands on the oil than Minnie's Fociesta. However, I have read nothing which makes me think of changing my mind. For those who remember my last posts on this subject I can assure them that my 1980 TR7 is still running sweetly after its recent fourth oil change since 1989. It has only done 16,000 miles since then so the oil hasn't had much work to do. Frankly, it would have been absurd to have changed it 25 times.

Someone asked about my qualifications. Mechanics was part of Additional Maths O level, then A levels in Physics and Chemistry aged 17, a lifelong love of machinery and interest in engines and 40+ years of servicing, repairing and maintaining my cars as economically as possible.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Happy Blue!

John, I wonder if you are missing the point deliberately. Any car that has an average mileage of less than say 5,000pa could be driven in one of two extreme ways; either no more than two miles every working day, or far less frequent but longer journeys of say ten miles once a week. The former car will need oil changes more frequently for reasons stated above and the latter, less frequently for the same reasons.

A car which is not driven at all for long periods clearly does not need oil changes as frequently but if used again after standing for more than one year, the first thing I would do is change the oil because oil absorbs water from the atmosphere and reduces its effectiveness.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - RobJP

John F (who started this thread) has stated (couple of posts above here) that he is running a TR7 on the oil change that was done in 1989, and has done 16k miles in the car since then. 25 years ago.

I hope to god I never have the misfortune of buying one of his old cars.

Edited by RobJP on 23/09/2014 at 22:13

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Andrew-T

A car which is not driven at all for long periods clearly does not need oil changes as frequently but if used again after standing for more than one year, the first thing I would do is change the oil because oil absorbs water from the atmosphere and reduces its effectiveness.

Blue, I am wondering how the oil in your sump will absorb much water from the atmosphere? I think the greater worry might be that every last trace of it has drained down fron the cylinders.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Cyd

I think the greater worry might be that every last trace of it has drained down fron the cylinders.

Agreed

I used to switch off the fuel pump and block the intake trumpets on the rally car, then crank for 15 seconds before allowing it to start. Oil pressure would usually get to about 30psi during cranking.

I also found internal corrosion due to condensation to be a problem on spare engines sat in the garage.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - madf

Anyone who drives 16,000 miles in 25 years is ill suited to give advice to others based on his personal experience.

For all we know, his average 600 miles a year could - and probably is - all driven in summer to and from classic car rallies. And the car is garaged .

Frankly to discuss the matter further gives his advice credence which it does not possess.

And it's an engine designed at least 50 years ago so irrelevant to modern cars.

( I write as a qualified physicist who used to work in the car industry)

Edited by madf on 24/09/2014 at 12:30

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - skidpan

I am quite happy running a car on extended oil changes provided the car does longish runs and uses the correct oil. My BMW was fine on the 18,000 mile or 2 year schedule but never did shopping trips and school runs. If it had I would have fitted in a simple annual oil change.

But if I was only doing 5,000 miles a year on short runs I wouild never leave the oil in for 10,000 miles/2 years even if it was the correct oil. Our Seat had the option of standard or extended intervals. We do about 8,000 miles a year in it so I went for the annual oil change schedule. Long term its costs no mkore since the oil for the annual service is cheaper.

My "classic" does about 2,000 miles a year. Would I ever consider letting it do 10,000 miles between oil changes. Absolutely no way. I change it every 3,000 miles using a good quality oil of the correct grade for the engine, costs about £25 for Motul 5w 30. And that engine only ever does decent runs. Never goes to the shop and back etc.

£25 for an oil change is about 150 miles of petrol. I simply don't know why the subject needs debating.

Not going to comment on anyone who is still using 25 year old oil.

Edited by skidpan on 24/09/2014 at 13:28

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Andrew-T

Not going to comment on anyone who is still using 25 year old oil.

Skidpan, if you read more carefully, this OP says he has changed the oil 4 times in those 25 years. Not ideal, but better than you are suggesting.

Edited by Andrew-T on 24/09/2014 at 15:00

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - John F

Just to answer above points; he who bought my old 133,000m A6 2.8 for £800 [inc 10/12 tax and MoT] probably got a bargain. My TR7 is used all year - admittedly it might rest for up to three weeks during the 'salt' months. I have never noticed any 'mayonnaise' evidence of the above suggestion of 'water absorption' .Oil and water are immiscible and even if an invisible emulsion was formed from microscopic particles of water it would soon be destabilised by heat. [Non-chemists please google 'immiscible' and 'emulsion' if not familiar with these terms].

We used to do many miles - I got over 400,000 miles out of two second-hand Passats - both engines were OK when I sold them at 192,000 [GL5] and 242,000 [2.0 GL] , probably because of my careful economical maintenance schedules.

I still contend that for those living in poor or reduced circumstances like great aunt Minnie, who might take nine years for their six year old car to go from, say, 60,000 to 90,000, an annual oil change is an unnecessary hassle and a needless expense. I agree that the HJ supporters' regimen might prolong the engine life from, say, 150,000 to 200,000 - but is great auntie M really going to be bothered?

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - John F

And it's an engine designed at least 50 years ago so irrelevant to modern cars.

Not really. The Triumph 'Slant 4' indeed appeared in Saabs of the 1960s but it had a several years of improvement and development before it appeared in the TRs of the 70s - and my TR is 1980. I suspect its bearings, rings and cylinder surfaces are of similar composition to great aunt Minnie's Fociesta. But whatever the age, we are discussing oil, not metal. Both have improved to a considerable degree, especially engine oil.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - RobJP

Virtually every reply has disagreed with you, and believes you are in the wrong.

They range from industrial chemists, (in my case an ex-oil chemistry specialist), to engine builders for rallying, and lots of other experience. And yet you are still harping on, trying to 'prove' your poin, but without any 'proof'. So you end up nitpicking, to make up for the lack of any proof.

You yourself have conceded that it might improve engine life from 150,000 to 200,000 miles. So that's 50,000 miles bonus lifespan, for the cost of a few oil changes. Maybe it won't make any difference to aunty Mabel. But if you told her that you concede that it MIGHT do that, then she would make a decision herself. And quite possibly move to annual oil changes.

Engines are expensive. Oil changes are pretty cheap. Even a main agent BMW oil change is less than £180, so I'd imagine most independent garages are £100 or so. You've got to go through a hell of a lot of oil changes to make up the cost of an engine, and the fitting of the same.

Maybe you should come up with a good reason why changing oil annually is NOT a good idea. Because your current argument has floundered quite badly.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Trilogy

My 1998 Octavia diesel engine was running fine at 222,000 miles, using very little oil, even though for the last three years it was only serviced every 20,000 miles.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Bladerrw

Don't you as an "ex-oil chemistry specialist" have some proof to back up your assertions about oil life. Are there no published works comparing service regimes that would settle this?

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - RobJP

Don't you as an "ex-oil chemistry specialist" have some proof to back up your assertions about oil life. Are there no published works comparing service regimes that would settle this?

As far as I'm aware, there are no published works.

Information, as they say, is power. If you pay £500k for a load of research to be done, are you really going to publish it, so your competitors get all that for free ?

Oh, and the bit of information in there (cost) is based on a piece of work that we did back in the early 90s. Probably 10 times that cost now.

If anyone is from the area, they might remember. Black VW Polo 'breadvan' types with roof boards fitted (to increase wind resistance and drag) continually running up and down the M56 in the early 1990s. That was part of a project that I was involved in. We had 10 of those cars, and they racked up huge mileage.

I'd still be bound by a confidentiality clause that I'm not prepared to break, so I'll just say that more frequent servicing means a LOT less wear on engines.

Don't believe me ? Fine. I don't give a hoot. Carry on as you are, getting cars serviced every 20k. Go for it.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Andrew-T

Virtually every reply has disagreed with you, and believes you are in the wrong.

You yourself have conceded that it might improve engine life from 150,000 to 200,000 miles.

It's fun sitting on the fence in this discussion. Each side offers 'evidence' and then dismisses the other's 'lack of proof'. If this car does 150K miles without trouble, but might do a completely unnecessary 200K with annual oil changes, why do them?

We all accept that an engine will benefit from frequent oil changes: you can change every 1000 or 6 months if you have money (and oil) to burn. But anyone with a bit of interest and knowledge can choose to use a lower safety margin, especially if his engine does not rely on tight tolerances. Just agree to differ.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - John F

We all accept that an engine will benefit from frequent oil changes: you can change every 1000 or 6 months if you have money (and oil) to burn. But anyone with a bit of interest and knowledge can choose to use a lower safety margin, especially if his engine does not rely on tight tolerances. Just agree to differ.

V wise comment, Andrew-T, [unlike some in this most interesting debate]. I have searched the internet to find some evidence of how long an engine will last with rare oil change intervals, and found nothing much apart from anecdotal stories ranging from 'just keep it topped up' to 1000m changes.

However, it is a fact that decent oil these days is far better than it used to be, and both quality of metal and engineering tolerances are also much improved so that bearings and 'scraped' surfaces wear much less quickly than they used to. I do not know what the average mileage of a scrapped car engine is but I would guess that most of the reasons for scrappage are not worn engines [can anyone from the scrap car business enlighten us?].

What is absolutely clear is the widespread ignorance of differing engine longevity with differing oil change regimes. And what is absolutely plain is the vested interest of the motor industry [all those who vehemently disagree with me should declare any such conflict of interest] to encourage poor gt aunt Minnie to spend as much money on her car as possible.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Andrew-T

<< I do not know what the average mileage of a scrapped car engine is but I would guess that most of the reasons for scrappage are not worn engines [can anyone from the scrap car business enlighten us?]. >>

I would guess that quite a few cars are scrapped with a good deal of useable life left. They have been scrapped because of lack of fashion, or in other words boredom. Their resale value may have dropped below £1000, so only dung-beetle traders might be interested, and owners throw them away because 'it costs more to fix than it's worth'.

At the height of that silly Scrappage Scheme about 7 years ago I remember a Pug dealer saying he had taken in a totally roadworthy 306 with about 15K miles on it. That was just criminal waste. And IFIRC it could not even be dismantled for parts.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - madf

And it's an engine designed at least 50 years ago so irrelevant to modern cars.

Not really. The Triumph 'Slant 4' indeed appeared in Saabs of the 1960s but it had a several years of improvement and development before it appeared in the TRs of the 70s - and my TR is 1980. I suspect its bearings, rings and cylinder surfaces are of similar composition to great aunt Minnie's Fociesta. But whatever the age, we are discussing oil, not metal. Both have improved to a considerable degree, especially engine oil.

That is John F's reply to my comment about the age of the design of his engine.

I regret you dispaly an apparent ignorance about engine design. Modern engines rely on high tolerances, and bearing materials much stronger than in the past. Bores are often coated with anti wear compounds as are piston rings.

Multi valve engines mean finer clearances and far cleaner oil- all of which mean better oil filtration is needed . The demand for improved mpg means the old 20W-50 oils are obsolete and 0W-20 is becong the new standard.

Add in DPFs and the requirement for lower emissions and not changing oils in arduous conditions is just crazy when a new engine can cost £8k plus.

Oh and multi valve multi cam engines often result in lots of smaller oil pathways... block those and you get rapid wear.

Frankly I think you are micturating into the wind. And refuse to comment further on a thread based on ignorance and lack of evidence.

Try reading about the scientific method.

Edited by madf on 25/09/2014 at 16:27

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Trilogy

Oil change requirements are just a con created by oil companies to sell more oil. As long as it is kept topped up, no need to worry.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - alan1302

Oil change requirements are just a con created by oil companies to sell more oil. As long as it is kept topped up, no need to worry.

I hope that's a tongue in cheek comment

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - focussed

If you want to keep your oil in your car's engine sump for years because you think that regular oil changes are a conspiracy that's up to you-it's a free country(so far).

Me? I'm going to change mine, in all of my ten or so engines that I have to maintain, just as often as I like, and the engines will feel better for doing it.

Thank you and good night- have you changed your oil today?

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Trilogy

Thank you and good night- have you changed your oil today?

Not a daily necessity. Have you?

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - skidpan

If anyone is from the area, they might remember. Black VW Polo 'breadvan' types with roof boards fitted (to increase wind resistance and drag) continually running up and down the M56 in the early 1990s.

IMHO its a bit irrelevant to todays cars. In the early 90's I had a Golf GTI that I drove for 113,000 miles. The oil was changed every 10,000 miles as per the schedule using the correct VW Quantum oil which was a 10w 40 mineral oil. No doubt your Polo ran a similar oil. Todays oils are far removed from that specification. Most are semi-synthetic or fully synthetic, the best are Ester synthetic. No comparison to the early1990's which were not that long ago.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - RobJP

If anyone is from the area, they might remember. Black VW Polo 'breadvan' types with roof boards fitted (to increase wind resistance and drag) continually running up and down the M56 in the early 1990s.

IMHO its a bit irrelevant to todays cars. In the early 90's I had a Golf GTI that I drove for 113,000 miles. The oil was changed every 10,000 miles as per the schedule using the correct VW Quantum oil which was a 10w 40 mineral oil. No doubt your Polo ran a similar oil. Todays oils are far removed from that specification. Most are semi-synthetic or fully synthetic, the best are Ester synthetic. No comparison to the early1990's which were not that long ago.

If you say so we weren't using fully synthetic oils in the early 1990s in that test, then I'd beg to differ.

But hey ho. Obviously you were part of that test group, like me. One of us seems to have a better memory than the other one though.

Oh. One little point. Mobil 1 (AFAIK the first fully synthetic engine oil for 'general' car use) was introduced in the 1970s.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - HandCart

Was it available (without special order) in the UK at that time? Because I don't remember it until the 90s. (Not saying it wasn't there; just that I was unaware of it.)

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - galileo

I definitely recall ads for Mobil 1 around 1979/80.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Ordovices

Are you implying that the current Mobil 1 is the same formula as it was in the 70s?

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - mss1tw

Oil change requirements are just a con created by oil companies to sell more oil. As long as it is kept topped up, no need to worry.

Assuming that wasn't tongue in cheek as someone said...

Which is the con then - Long service intervals for fleet benefit, or short service intervals for oil/part companies/service departments?!

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Trilogy

Not entirely tongue in cheek. Will post a longer reply when I have more time.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - skidpan

If you say so we weren't using fully synthetic oils in the early 1990s in that test, then I'd beg to differ.

But hey ho. Obviously you were part of that test group, like me. One of us seems to have a better memory than the other one though.

Oh. One little point. Mobil 1 (AFAIK the first fully synthetic engine oil for 'general' car use) was introduced in the 1970s.

I never said or suggested that synthetics were not available in the early 90's. I remember a mate using Mobil 1 in the late 80's, hugely expensive and very difficult to find. When he did a continental tour he was so worried about finding some should he need it he took a 5 litre with him. I used semi synthetic at this time in one of our cars because that is what was specified.

But in the Golf GTi I used what VW specified and at the time it was a mineral 10w 40.

The Mobil 1 sold today will be way better than the Mobil 1 sold in the 80's and 90's.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - RobJP

The Mobil 1 sold today will be way better than the Mobil 1 sold in the 80's and 90's.

Can you back that statement up with any proof at all ? Even some proof that it's better than the Mobil 1 sold in the 70's will suffice

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - John F

www.overdriveonline.com/next-gen-oil-test-shell-hi.../

Here is a link some might find interesting, hope it comes out OK when posted. Not sure whether observations on presumably diesel truck engines run to >500,000m with 50,000m changes can be extrapolated to cars!

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - galileo

www.overdriveonline.com/next-gen-oil-test-shell-hi.../

Here is a link some might find interesting, hope it comes out OK when posted. Not sure whether observations on presumably diesel truck engines run to >500,000m with 50,000m changes can be extrapolated to cars!

Note that these were running 5000 miles per week, presumably mostly on Interstates/Highways, not pottering to the shops or Church on Sundays, like Aunt Minnie.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - brum

Modern truck engines are engineered for extended oil changes.

1. Like modern airplanes, trucks run virtually 24/7 and cover massive mileages.

2. They have massive oil sumps

3. Lab based Oil condition monitoring is carried out regularly to monitor both oil and engine condition.

4. Truck engines are not stressed in the same way as cars.

5. Modern truck engines require very expensive and very high spec oil. and have very large filters.

Edited by brum on 27/09/2014 at 21:36

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - gordonbennet

Am i alone in wondering why they went to all that trouble to test a thinner oil, yet failed to mention fuel savings.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - brum

Because its American, and therefore not related to the real world we europeans live in. The article is typical Usa non scientific PR cack.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - skidpan

The Mobil 1 sold today will be way better than the Mobil 1 sold in the 80's and 90's.

Can you back that statement up with any proof at all ? Even some proof that it's better than the Mobil 1 sold in the 70's will suffice

Mobil 1 sold in the late 80's would have met SF or possibly SG specs.

Mobil 1 sold today comes in many varieties and meets SL, SM or SN specs depending on which oil you need.

The newer specs also have to meet various manufacturers requirements as well as the requirements for DPF's etc which did not exist in the 80's.

Put some 1980 spec Mobil 1 in a modern engine and you would be asking for trouble.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Andrew-T

<< Put some 1980 spec Mobil 1 in a modern engine and you would be asking for trouble. >>

I'd like to know just what 'trouble' you are thinking of. Since that 1980 Mobil 1 was such good stuff I would have thought that as long as you changed it appropriately it would be more than OK in most cars?

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - skidpan

<< Put some 1980 spec Mobil 1 in a modern engine and you would be asking for trouble. >>

I'd like to know just what 'trouble' you are thinking of. Since that 1980 Mobil 1 was such good stuff I would have thought that as long as you changed it appropriately it would be more than OK in most cars?

Back in the 80's cars did not have sophisticated emmission control systems, most in truth still had carburettors and a block breather that dumped oil into the air cleaner. Modern spec oils, as well as lubricating far better are designed to be compatible with the systems fitted to modern engines.

On diesels with DPF's its essential to use a low SAPS oil. These did not exist in the 80's. There are 3 types, C1, C2 and C3, the handbook will tell you which one you need.

VW, Ford, BMW, Mercedes etc all have their own specifications that have evolved over the years as the engines and control systems have changed. VW have a bewildering array of specs for different engines.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - HandCart

Do VW's Service Depts keep lots of different oils then, or do they have a bulk tank of "this is more or less right for nearly everything" with a hose and a trigger?

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - brum

VW have a bewildering array of specs for different engines.

Not true. For the past few years they have standardised on two specs. 504 for petrol engines and 507 for diesel engines, both specs are covered by one oil (504/507). This one oil covers all VAG group passenger cars past and present.

Part of the problem is the practice by dealers not to follow manufacturer procedures but substituting cheaper and inferior oil to make a couple of quid extra profit and extra future work resulting from premature wear.

Edited by brum on 29/09/2014 at 19:05

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - corax

Part of the problem is the practice by dealers not to follow manufacturer procedures but substituting cheaper and inferior oil to make a couple of quid extra profit and extra future work resulting from premature wear.

Do they really do this? You're saying that they'll list what type of oil they have used on the invoice but use a cheaper oil in reality?

I would have thought that the right oil used in bulk quantities would be quite cheap, but I don't use main dealers - I buy the oil and my mechanic changes it. Of course I suppose he could be substituting a different oil, but I like to think I can trust him, and I have seen him carrying out the job occasionally :)

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Wackyracer
Mobil 1 sold in the late 80's would have met SF or possibly SG specs.

Mobil 1 sold today comes in many varieties and meets SL, SM or SN specs depending on which oil you need.

The newer specs also have to meet various manufacturers requirements as well as the requirements for DPF's etc which did not exist in the 80's.

Put some 1980 spec Mobil 1 in a modern engine and you would be asking for trouble.

Usually high grade oils Exceed the current API ratings by a big margin. Quoting

API rating doesn't mean much TBH, Even knowledgeable Americans will admit that API are pretty poor compared to the ACEA grading of oils.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - brum

Mobil 1 is a marketing sub-brand name and does not refer to a particular oil but to a range of products. The same goes for Castrol Edge, Castrol GTX, and many other manufacturers oproducts.

Edited by brum on 29/09/2014 at 19:07

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Happy Blue!

Except in the 1980s Mobil 1 was a single oil capable of replacing almost all other oils. I used the oil extensively.

Edited by Happy Blue! on 29/09/2014 at 22:28

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - skidpan

VW have a bewildering array of specs for different engines.

Not true. For the past few years they have standardised on two specs. 504 for petrol engines and 507 for diesel engines, both specs are covered by one oil (504/507). This one oil covers all VAG group passenger cars past and present. Part of the problem is the practice by dealers not to follow manufacturer procedures but substituting cheaper and inferior oil to make a couple of quid extra profit and extra future work resulting from premature wear.

As per my original post I can assure you that the handbook for my 2013 Seat Leon contains more than 2 oil specs and one oil. For starters there are different oils for standard or long life. then diesels fitted with DPF's need different oils to non DPF models. Then PD diesels have a different oil.

Not exactly one size fits all is it.

Edited by skidpan on 30/09/2014 at 14:25

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Gibbo_Wirral

The current Peugeot service handbook lists four different oils.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - madf

In 2003. Toyota quoted four oils for my Yaris D4D

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - skidpan

Part of the problem is the practice by dealers not to follow manufacturer procedures but substituting cheaper and inferior oil to make a couple of quid extra profit and extra future work resulting from premature wear.

Do they really do this? You're saying that they'll list what type of oil they have used on the invoice but use a cheaper oil in reality?

I would have thought that the right oil used in bulk quantities would be quite cheap, but I don't use main dealers - I buy the oil and my mechanic changes it. Of course I suppose he could be substituting a different oil, but I like to think I can trust him, and I have seen him carrying out the job occasionally :)

They do indeed. When the wifes Kia Ceed was due for its first service I rang the 4 local dealers (all within 12 miles) for a price. 3 said £160, the other £120. When questioned this dealer (who was a Ford dealer with a Kia franchise added during scrappage) admitted he used Ford Semi Synthetic oil when servicing Fords and Kia's. Kia require a fully synthetic C3 spec oil in our car since its a diesel with DPF, the Ford oil simply did not meet the standards. The dealer was quite happy to use the correct oil if we paid another £40.

Went to the closest dealer.

Afterwards I contacted Kia who were simply not bothered what their dealers were up to despite it clearly saying in the warranty book that incorrect grade lubricants would mean an end to the 7 year warranty. Or were they hoping to have a get out clause.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Wackyracer

admitted he used Ford Semi Synthetic oil when servicing Fords and Kia's.

It will be wrong for some Ford's too, Later Ford requirements are for Fully synthetics to FORD WSS-M2C913-D spec.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Andrew-T

<< Not exactly one size fits all is it. >>

Of course there will be differences between all these grades, and some will have been developed for special purposes. But as none of us drive space rockets, I remain to be convinced that using another oil of the correct viscosity will cause mission-critical failure in most cars.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - brum

As per my original post I can assure you that the handbook for my 2013 Seat Leon contains more than 2 oil specs and one oil. For starters there are different oils for standard or long life. then diesels fitted with DPF's need different oils to non DPF models. Then PD diesels have a different oil.

Not exactly one size fits all is it.

ONE oil does cover them all

If you knew anything about oil, bothered to research it, you would know that a 504/507 spec oil, such as Quantum longlife III, complies with all of VW's previous specifications such as 502.00 for petrol and 505.00 or 505.01 (PD) for diesels. It is backwards compatible.

The fixed/variable schedules as explained in the SEAT manual quote the MINIMUM OIL SPECIFICATION for useage/service regime, in case you can't obtain the 504/507 spec oil or are a cheapskate.

There are even oils that comply with the vw 504/507 spec and also other manufacturers specs e.g. BMW and Mercedes.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - skidpan

As per my original post I can assure you that the handbook for my 2013 Seat Leon contains more than 2 oil specs and one oil. For starters there are different oils for standard or long life. then diesels fitted with DPF's need different oils to non DPF models. Then PD diesels have a different oil.

Not exactly one size fits all is it.

ONE oil does cover them all

If you knew anything about oil, bothered to research it, you would know that a 504/507 spec oil, such as Quantum longlife III, complies with all of VW's previous specifications such as 502.00 for petrol and 505.00 or 505.01 (PD) for diesels. It is backwards compatible.

The fixed/variable schedules as explained in the SEAT manual quote the MINIMUM OIL SPECIFICATION for useage/service regime, in case you can't obtain the 504/507 spec oil or are a cheapskate.

There are even oils that comply with the vw 504/507 spec and also other manufacturers specs e.g. BMW and Mercedes.

I am only quoting what is in my handbook. It clearly gives the specs for different engines some of which are not available in the new Leon such as the PD engines.

For your information I know a great deal about oils, probably forgotten more than you know.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - John F

Not entirely tongue in cheek. Will post a longer reply when I have more time.

I'm still waiting, Trilogy, hope you have time soon. I think the Merc specialist advice in your first post is sensible.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Trilogy

Not entirely tongue in cheek. Will post a longer reply when I have more time.

I'm still waiting, Trilogy, hope you have time soon. I think the Merc specialist advice in your first post is sensible.

I do seem to remember an oil magnate once saying oil changes were a bit of a con fabricated by oil companies to sell oil. Not sure how long ago that was. Frankly, I do wonder how many people will keep a car long enough for any engine damage to become apparent.

IMO, I believe there will be more people causing damage by letting the oil run too low. Whenever I buy a car, I always check the oil level, with the dipstick. On two occasions I have found no oil on the dipstick, I just walked away. Way back in the 1980s I did ask a friend if he ever checked his oil . He said there was a warning light on the dashboard that told him when it was too low. Actually, this warning light was for low oil pressure!

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Ed V

Well, I assume that if I had no engine oil, the oil pressure light might be on?

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Wackyracer

I remember watching an episode of 'The Garage' some time ago when they had a Jeep with a wrecked engine caused by neglected oil changes and/or low oil level. What oil was left was a slimey gel.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - madf

I do seem to remember an oil magnate once saying oil changes were a bit of a con fabricated by oil companies to sell oil. Not sure how long ago that was. Frankly, I do wonder how many people will keep a car long enough for any engine damage to become apparent.

Many US motorists change their oil at 3,000 miles.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - mss1tw

Many US motorists change their oil at 3,000 miles.

Yes with modern oils that's daft even by my standards.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Wackyracer

GM's oil life monitoring system is supposed to be pretty good at determining oil life.

Dare I say it is the only thing I like about Vauxhall cars?

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - John F

Many US motorists change their oil at 3,000 miles.

Yes with modern oils that's daft even by my standards.

And a prime example of getting people to spend as much as possible, a fundamental ethos of US capitalism - which I am not for one moment knocking.

But at last a bit of science/knowledge is creeping into this debate....

www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/77/gm's-oil-life-system-improves-timing-of-oil-change

..this link [from the US!] is worth a read.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Wackyracer
But at last a bit of science/knowledge is creeping into this debate....

While the GM oil life monitoring system is quite good and well tested, It is still a system that works on an educated guess.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - John F

Whenever I buy a car, I always check the oil level, with the dipstick. On two occasions I have found no oil on the dipstick, I just walked away. Way back in the 1980s I did ask a friend if he ever checked his oil . He said there was a warning light on the dashboard that told him when it was too low. Actually, this warning light was for low oil pressure!

I suspect this is the etymological reason to use the word 'dipstick' as slang for a stupid person. A few years ago a girl whose daddy had bought her a brand new little Citroen offered to take my son back to uni. My kneejerk reaction was to check oil before a long journey. She had no idea why I was concerned that the level barely reached the end of the dipstick, let alone the minimum mark. Mileage? Less than 4,000, I think.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Avant

I've found that VAG cars, both petrol and diesel, need a litre of oil at some point during the first 10,000 miles, and then never again. Knowing this, Skoda gave me a free litre in a nice little pouch Velcro'd to the side of the luggage area.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - brum

Avant, beware. Although its true that many engines use more oil during the running in phase and then settle down to low or minimal useage, I have found that modern vw engines, tsi included, on (rare) occasions have spurious mystery losses of oil up to a litre, fortunately rare and one offs.(so far) They also develop an increasing appetite over time, especially if you are on the extended variable scheme and going over 18000 miles between oil changes.

Regular checkups advised.....not so sure about the variable regime any more...

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Toyota Red

The problem with this approach is the insidious nature of extended intervals, and the irreversible consequences if it turns out not to have been a good strategy and you need the extra mileage that a more generous regime may have allowed.

Mrs TR's car will shortly be receiving its 15 oil change in 57,000 miles we have owned it. Three litres of Mobil 1 and a filter of your choice costs between £24 and £27; we have spent around £375 on changes in total in around 7 years. These oil changes represent 0.65 pence/mile. Other costs over the same period:

Fuel 12.8 pence/mile

VED/Insurance 5.1 pence/mile

Depreciation 2.5 pence/mile

The total costs of the car since purchase are 24 pence/mile. Had we not changed the oil at all, and suffered no additional costs as a result, that would drop it to 23.35 pence/mile. Frequent changes represent under 3% of the overall costs.

If some of this 0.65 pence/mile spent on oil keeps open the possibility of attaining very high mileages then I regard it as a "no brainer" for ourselves. The flexibility of owning a basically reliable car that can be run indefinitely or indeed disposed of at a time of our choosing rather than dictated by mechanical issues is a degree of flexibility I'm willing to pay something for in the hope of attaining.

I don't know how many cars a person in their thirties might be expected to get through in the line of average mileage commuting for three decades until retirement, but given the costs in changing a car, if you can reduce the number required by spending fractions of a penny/mile on a generous changing regime I'm all for it. Ultimately, time will tell if this strategy is misguided but the early indications are promising.

Edited by Toyota Red on 05/10/2014 at 11:24

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - brum

I do wish people would stop posting "it costs ony £xx for oil and a filter"

Most motorists would have the oil change done at a dealer for a typical price of £150 (local skoda price) plus the upselling hassle that dealers try to intimidate people into.

My son, who is not extravagent, rarely has even £10 left before payday. He relies on his car to get to work 75 miles each day, but in reality it costs him more to work and live tha he can afford.

I guess what I'm trying to say is that dealers are a major problem in getting people to have their car serviced.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Toyota Red

I posted a personal perspective since the poster who started the thread changes their own. I'm sorry if this is considered irrelevant. It seems perfectly relevant to my own situation, that oil changes are an inconsequential cost in motoring and (for a DIYer) to skimp on them is not a sensible approach, in my view.

If your son is driving 75/day, 18,000 miles per annum, the annual £150 oil change is around 0.83 pence/mile. This is a minor cost in his motoring overall, I'd venture.

If dealership costs/attitudes prevent servicing, people ought to try and circumvent them by either finding the time to DIY or find a local independent. Circumstances allowed me to go down the DIY route and I accept it will not be possible for everyone but it is acheivable goal for many. Youtube makes it easier than ever to find out what you are letting yourself in for without even opening the bonnet.

Edited by Toyota Red on 05/10/2014 at 17:40

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Andrew-T

If dealership costs/attitudes prevent servicing, people ought to try and circumvent them by either finding the time to DIY or find a local independent.

Unfortunately nowadays it's rather more than just 'circumstances'. Since about 1970 I have tried to do the minor DiY - oil and filter, brake pads, etc. I have now largely ceased, partly because of advancing age, but mostly because on modern cars it's almost impossible without some serious equipment such as a hoist. Car handbooks give almost no useful info beyond what type of oil to use (and nothing about where to find the drain plug) and what is in the fuse box. Most people have to rely on garages or K-F. It's all a big conspiracy, possibly involving Elf & Safety I suppose.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - gordonbennet

Lots of differing views here.

Toyota Red's regime and views are similar to my own, though my cars tend to get bought as well serviced older buys, and i usualy perform a fairly expensive complete service incl all transmission oils, barke refurb and thorough rustproofing upon purchase, then continue the previous good service regime for as long a life as possible...been known to break the golden rule a few times, by spending more than the car is worth to sell, its not being sold so its worth a different price to me.

Others for reasons of incapable, or planned (or unplanned) short term ownership or simply not wanting to dirty their hands will not be doing as TR and i do, they may do exactly as they wish, they can minimise servicing and take a gamble on the vehicle lasting, they may not be bothered if the vehicle is leased or on tick, but by doing minimum servicing they possibly reduce their long term options if their circumstances change and they decide they need to keep the car....long term ownership is one of the reasons i avoid all unecessary tat such as electric parking brakes.

Anyone who pays £150 for intermediate oil changes is throwing their money up the wall, as TR mentions either learn to DIY or get an indy to use the oil of your choice, no need to stamp the book, keep receipts in order to delight and entice the right used buyers when you come to sell, like me for instance who's been known to pay over the odds for the right well serviced used car.

£150 is ridiculous for statutory required oil change, my main dealer was more than happy for me to supply my own bulk bought oil (better than theirs) for regular servicing, that alone saved approx £50 nett. off every service, bringing a minor service on the Hilux below £100...and yes i still did intermediate changes...looking after things works, the price i got for the vehicle when sold was excellent, lost less than a third of new price after 3.5 years straight (unseen) cash sale to trader.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - John F

I posted a personal perspective since the poster who started the thread changes their own.

I don't understand this. There is nothing in this thread so far to change my contention that changing modern high quality oil in a low mileage unstressed basic car engine every 365 days is unnecessary.

Clearly there needs to be an experiment to see how long an engine will last if merely kept topped up with a filter change every 10,000m and an oil change every, say, 5yrs. I would be happy to volunteer our 2000 1.6Zetec 103,000m Focus [I have just changed the 20 month old oil in my usual careful manner, leaving it overnight nose up to drain the last 100mls of the dirtiest goo - something no garage will ever do for you].

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Wackyracer
Clearly there needs to be an experiment to see how long an engine will last if merely kept topped up with a filter change every 10,000m and an oil change every, say, 5yrs. I would be happy to volunteer our 2000 1.6Zetec 103,000m Focus [I have just changed the 20 month old oil in my usual careful manner, leaving it overnight nose up to drain the last 100mls of the dirtiest goo - something no garage will ever do for you].

That is the opposite of what Toyota recommended for my car. They recommend changing the oil every 6months and the filter every 12months (every other oil change).

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Andrew-T

<< That is the opposite of what Toyota recommended for my car. They recommend changing the oil every 6months and the filter every 12months (every other oil change). >>

Yes, but why do they recommend that? Might it just be to make sure there are few successful warranty claims?

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - RobJP

The problem is, you'd have to do it on thousands of cars to get any sort of real evidence. One person's driving style compared to anothers would make a large difference too. Only by having a decent sample size could you get any definitive answer.

You've heard from here from oil specialists, independent garage people, engine builders and racers, and virtually all think that more frequent is better. They ARE a reasonable sample size. On the side of 'long oil changes are bad', you've got BMW, Audi et al, who have built up a bit of a poor record, which is being blamed by a fair number of people on those extended service intervals - BMW's in particular being based on timing chains not receiving the required lubrication, due to worn-out oils.

It's like running on 'premium' fuels. They cost more. Some people get slightly better fuel economy from them, but not enough to make the difference back. But if they also help to keep injectors clean, then do they add up as worth it TO YOU

Only you can answer that question. There is no absolute, or definitive answer. Nobody can say that in this particular case, changing oil more or less often WILL or WILL NOT make a difference. But the evidence seems to point in one direction. It's not proof, absolute and verifiable, and it probably never will be. Much like a jury member, you've got to decide how it adds up, and come to your own decision.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - John F

virtually all think that more frequent is better.

And I do not for one moment disagree with this. An annual change in a 6 year old car which has done 72,000m and now does only 5000 per annum will ensure its engine will probably last till 200,000m. But I doubt if the surrounding car will survive another 24yrs.

All I am saying is that the blanket advice that oil MUST be changed after 365 days is nowadays unnecessary, especially with better modern oil [and I believe it wasn't the BMW chains that were a problem, it was bits falling off the iffy plastic chain guides]

The cost of motoring is a serious matter for those who do not have the luxury of choosing a new car every few years, and of course one must adhere to the warranty conditions in the early years. But I am thinking about the vast number of older cars worth next to nothing doing low mileages which will be probably be scrapped well before the engine shows signs of serious wear. The owners will make the perfectly sensible economic decision to just change it every 10-12,000m or so, even if it takes two or three years to get there, just as I do.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Trilogy

The cost of motoring is a serious matter for those who do not have the luxury of choosing a new car every few years, and of course one must adhere to the warranty conditions in the early years. But I am thinking about the vast number of older cars worth next to nothing doing low mileages which will be probably be scrapped well before the engine shows signs of serious wear. The owners will make the perfectly sensible economic decision to just change it every 10-12,000m or so, even if it takes two or three years to get there, just as I do.

I think it depends on length of journeys to a certain extent. SWMBO car (1998 Saab 9-3) does less than 2,500 miles a year. 80% of that is journeys of no more than 3 or 4 miles. Therefore we have it serviced annually. My 2001 Focus diesel does around 16,000 miles (most journeys are 20 miles plus), so is serviced as recommended by Ford. The 1996 Merc does no more than 3,000 miles. The majority of these are journeys of 40 miles or more. The car uses long life oil on the recommendation of the Merc specialist who looks after it. Services are now every other year, also on his recommendation. However, having read the posts of this thread I may now review that policy.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Toyota Red

I'm not really trying to change your mind, just explaining that from a personal perspective it makes no financial sense to extend oil changes in order to save a few tenths of a penny per mile driven on a car which costs 24 pence per mile to run, at the risk of shortening the operating life to inside the planned period of my ownership.

Oil degrades with use. Engines wear with use, and will eventually reach a point where the operating tolerances are far enough away from design spec that their performance deteriorates unacceptably. These are uncontrovesial statements. For my situation, it simply becomes a statistical approach. If replacing oil frequently requires an expenditure of well inside 5% of the total costs of running the car, and this action increases the likelihood of meaningfully retarding the move away from design spec to a point in the future where it ceases to be a constraint on ownership, this is an approach which makes perfect sense to me. It's not such an unusual approach, it's just I hope to hang on to the car (or at least have the option to) for much longer than the average person keeps theirs.

I enjoy reading about other's approaches, and I'll now pipe down and allow others to continue the debate.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Andrew-T

<< ... it makes no financial sense to extend oil changes in order to save a few tenths of a penny per mile driven ... >>

I don't think it's about fractions of a p-per-mile. It's about preventing failures which may be expensive to fix. And about peace of mind, I guess.

Any - HJ's expensive unnecessary advice-Sat Telegraph - Avant

Whatevr the rights and wrongs of this (amd personally I'm with the majority), it's worth emphasising again that if you buy a car new, or new enough to be still under the manufacturers' warranty, you MUST follow their instructions both for service intervals and the type of oil.

It doesn't matter why. What matters is that they will claim you've invalidated the warranty if you don't.