Amazing what you find when the wife actually lets you have the car for more than five minuets to check the levels.

Right front indicator bulb holder crusty so didn't work, cleaned and OK now.

Half the dash light bulbs useless, include the EM light, so now I have codes on paper clip test.

Cig lighter and reversing light not working but fuse OK?

Codes now are;

17? I can't find a 17 code anywhere.

22; TPS Voltage too high? I guess that is the 'tick over screw in the throttle stop.

44; Lambda sensor too weak? but reading are too higjh on CO?

I have cleaned the connector which was a bit oily.

I also found #1 and #3 plug lead connectors were a bit loose on the cable so I have re-crimped them, seems OK now.

Anyway of checking the CAT short of buying a new front pipe/catalyst?

Edited by Ukhozi on 14/01/2014 at 13:46

Anyway of checking the CAT short of buying a new front pipe/catalyst?

Take it to a garage and ask them to do a pre MOT emissions test?

Or borrow a tester.

Unlikely to be the Cat. Older cars without one do not give CO readings as high as yours.

All I know is, when I compare the build quality and metal

Unfortunately the thickness of metal has nothing to do with build quality. My 1964 Anglia had steel way thicker than my Leon but the steel used today is much better quality and design puts the strength where its needed. The Anglia could never have been considered to be a well built car.

Unfortunately you are comparing two very different cars. The A class was always a pile of tat that should never have worn the Mercedes badge.

Anyway,,,, Thanks for all the help and suggestions so far. I managed to loose code 44, (lambda weak) so happy about that but 22 and 71 remain, possinbly a wiring fault rather than a sensor problem?.

Update;

Autosnap doesn't read GM J1962 codes, bummer.

TPS arrived Friday but when I went to fit yesterday it I noticed there was a slot in the throttle spindle but nothing to connect the spindle to the internal 'pips' of the sensor, I guess there must have been a sliding tab that connected the two so I made a new one from some plastic scrap. I still get code 22 though, I have adjusted the throttle stop up and down but from what I read that is just the stall speed setting and should be set with the TPS and ICV disconnected and the TPS is self adjusting to that position and then relates it's actual position relative to that.

ATS arrived this morning after wife departed so I will fit that this evening and hope I loose code 71 at least.

Edited by Ukhozi on 27/01/2014 at 13:28

Up date;

Been playing with the TPS and both old and new ones work but the two pips inside are at different positions, I can get the required 0.42V on the blue wire, (ECU ref voltage) and I have 5v and ground but at 1/3rd throttle or the tps is 10mm from the mounting holes, on the old one it is les, about 15 degrees but still too low. is the bit that fts in the spindle slot just a bar or is it more complex than that?

Managed to clear all three codes at last. so car is now running better than ever but still juicy for a 1400cc car. Just need to get test re-bokked and emissions done.

The weakest area on these is the single wire from the lambda sensor that is supposed to earth through the exhaust. Seems a bad idea. As a suggestion, try using a multi wire sensor which would have an earth and a signal wire. The earth/return can be connected to something on the engine, ideally where there is another one with a nice shakeproof washer or something. If there are any heater wires for the sensor just leave them be. A decent secondhand sensor will be fine. That might be part of the problem especially with such drastic overfuelling. Fault codes can be a bit misleading. Hang in there, it'll be one of those problems that is just suddenly fixed and swapping sensors with a scrap car might be another way - if you can! Good luck.

Try cleaning up the negative connections, engine straps, gearbox straps etc. Undo them and put them back, high resistance joints can develop without you realising it or being able to see it. It's only 12V after all, not a lot of voltage to burn through bad joints.

All seems to be sorted now, problem with the TPS has been cured by the fitting of a second hand throttle body and TPS with a new ICV, with the voltage set to 0.42V and 4.6 at WOT it now runs smooth and has lost that 'jerky' take off I had.

problem with the panel lights going off when I turned on the heater was the triple diplay plug loose. Obviously pulled it when I had it all apart to change the heated rear window warning bulb. (SOD of a job)

Edited by Ukhozi on 19/02/2014 at 10:21

Tracked down the correct ECU and on its way and a pair of bonnet bumpers, well you never know, might be the problem, not!
Still getting the ATS light/code up after 10 minuets despite being on the third ATS and then clears when I park. weird?
Colortune now to hand and a job for the morning, if it shows blue I am really scratching what is left of my hair out.

PASSED!, Thanks for all advice. down to 0.48 after a bit of 'Italian tuning' by the tester, blew a load of crap out the back. just told be off about the last joint in the system before the tail section, needs a pinch tighter.