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Ford Ka - Brake performance - mikeymike

Been trying for some weeks to improve the brakes on my daughters 2004 Ka. The pedal travel seems excessive and the braking efficiency seems poor. Took many attempts to remove the front bleed nipples. Been soaking in penetrating fluid every weekend with no success. Finally resorted to heating the caliper with a gas torch (not hot enough to damage anything except my thumb !) and applying freezer spray down a tube over the nipple. Eventually with mole grips I got them out. Replaced nipples and bled through a whole bottle of fluid. I hoped this would solve the problem but little air came out and brakes were the same. Bled rear at same time.

Stripped rear drums (by removing 4 bolts in back plate and not disturbing bearings) brand new shoes and cylinders were there. One adjuster was incorrectly fitted. Instead of its teeth engaging with its partner, it was sitting behind it so was doing nothing. That's thanks to Halfords who did brakes and MOT the week before we bought it. Set the 2 together and moved it on a couple of clicks so drum would just fit. Other side was ok but did same with adjuster. Pumped brakes but heard no clicks. Adjusted handbrake but pedal still same.

So how can I manually move the adjusters without causing drum to drag ? Am I chasing a firm pedal which is not achievable? Is it the twist in the tube leading to the master cylinder ? or have read that the servo push rod can be adjusted ?

Sorry for long post - Mike

Ford Ka - Brake performance - gordonbennet

Presumably you've had an assistant press the brake pedal gradually whilst you 'feel' the braking effort at each wheel, (car raised wheels off couple of wheelbolts in and long lever to apply wheel turning effort via those bolts), check handbrake too like this.

Assuming that there is the sort of braking effort you are expecting at all 4 corners, i'd be inclined to strip the pads from the front brakes and make sure the pistons are free in their pots, and that the sliders are moving freely and lubricated adequately, obviously have a good look at the pads and if any doubt replace them, cheap as chips anyway.

Seeing as you've applied heat to the calipers might be an idea once all done to really stand on the brakes as much pressure as you can reasonably apply, any weaknesses you want to find now not out on the road, any doubt at all in your mind fit new front calipers.

Ford Ka - Brake performance - mikeymike

Hi, no have not assessed the brakes as you suggested, but front pads are brand new and I've had the calipers off and checked pistons and sliders.

Cheers, Mike

Ford Ka - Brake performance - bathtub tom

You may have the handbrake cable over-tight, thus preventing the self adjusters from doing their job. Try putting lots of slack in the handbrake cable, driving around a bit and applying the footbrake heavily.

I also agree with gb about having an assistant and feeling the braking effect at each corner, although an MOT testing station with brake testing rollers may let you measure the efficiency at each wheel more accurately for a small fee.

Ford Ka - Brake performance - madf

If the brake travel is excessive, the rear brakes have too much travel - my first diagnostic.

Agree with bathtub tom... no need to drive tho. Just undoi handbrage cable and apply handbrake hard. You should hear auto adjusters working - you really need a helper for this. If the rear drums came off easily with no binding of brake shoes on drum, suggests auto adjusters not working.

Had same problem on Yaris: carefully coppereased all brake shoes mounting points - there are lots on the rear .. and on the shoe/cylinder joints. Then checked all self adjusters worked freely. (this is a dissassembly jobbie really). Thenm when all moving freely , reassembled and tried handbrake. Lots of clicks.

Then adjusted handbrake cable. Then tried footbrake.

I would trust Halfords to do brain surgery before rear brakes - more complex than disks.

Ford Ka - Brake performance - boggles

Many years ago, i had a battle to bleed the front brakes satisfactorily, on a Mini 1275GT. After much trying, the solution turned out to be removing the front pads. Then, using a couple of tyre levers as stops, the pistons were pumped out until touching them. The brakes were bled as normal, and after putting the pads back, the pedal was A1. For some reason, the air would not purge with the pistons right in. Maybe this may help you.

Ford Ka - Brake performance - jc2

A 2004 KA may well have ABS-has it?

Ford Ka - Brake performance - mikeymike

No ABS. The drums were tricky to get off because the flange on the stub axle gets caught behind the brake lever, so although it was loose it took a while to wriggle it off. Guess it would have helped to release the HB cable inside the car first. After re-assembling, the handbrake did come right up and I had to adjust it back. Maybe I'll try slacking it off and pressing the pedal and then setting it again. I haven't taken off the shoes and springs yet so I guess I will try that to see how the adjusters work.

Thanks for the advice so far, Mike

Ford Ka - Brake performance - Peter.N.

If the front pads are actually 'brand new' it will be a while before they bed in, only then will you get optimum braking power.