honda - buying a car MOT issues - Rog46

Hi im about to buy a car , its an old car 2008, ive checked mot history (below)and im unsure if its worth getting hope you can help.

  • Suspension component corroded but not seriously weakened all round (5.3.3 (b) (i))
  • underbody corrosion
  • Front Oil leak, but not excessive
  • Sub-frame corroded but not seriously weakened (5.3.3 (b) (i)) LAST YEAR
  • Nearside Rear Coil spring corroded
  • Nearside Front Macpherson strut corroded but not seriously weaken
  • Central Exhaust mounting defective (
  • rear axle FEW YEARS BACK
  • honda - buying a car MOT issues - leaseman

    You will receive more help if you tell us the exact model and engine details, together with current mileage and the price asked by the dealer/ private seller. Do previous MOT mileage readings make sense?

    honda - buying a car MOT issues - corax

    Sounds like it's shortly on it's way to the crusher. Corrosion everywhere, 16/17 years old. I wouldn't bother.

    honda - buying a car MOT issues - gordonbennet

    Sounds like a typically neglected 17 year old car.

    The only reason to buy it is if its recycling centre cheap and you are prepared to get underneath and do the rust preventative work yourself, but before you do anything else check how bad the corrosion issues are for yourself, don't suppose its been overmaintained either so expect a full brake overhaul to be on the cards and front suspension will more than likely need some refurbishment.

    honda - buying a car MOT issues - Chris M

    Our 14 year old Panda has had corrosion on rear springs and suspension mentioned most years for about the last 7 MoTs. Cosmetic only and it's up to the MoT tester if they are minded.

    If the price is low enough the OP could easily get several years motoring out of the car.

    honda - buying a car MOT issues - Andrew-T

    Firstly, as has been said, it has to be cheap, and you don't actually say whether this is a list of advisories or an actual FAIL. If it's a Pass, the tester has reported corrosion on various parts which are inherently pretty tough, and may simply be surface rust which is not threatening. Subframes are usually solid structures - what matters is where they are attached to the bodywork. Coil springs often lose some coating and show rusty metal but are not a threat.

    If you buy this car, regard it as a stop-gap until the next MoT which it could fail and then be sorap.

    honda - buying a car MOT issues - John F

    Buying would probably only make sense if the OP is prepared to devote a sunny weekend to getting underneath and arresting the corrosion. If as much rust as possible has been wire-brushed and sc***ed off and then a coat of anti-rust protective paint has been applied, the next MoT tester, seeing that preventive maintenance has been done, might look favourably on it.

    honda - buying a car MOT issues - argybargy

    Sounds like the sort of car I might once have bought before I got wisdom. You've noted the make as Honda and that gives me hope that the car might be saved, but you haven't given any further information.

    My Honda Jazz had MOT advisories in 2023 of suspension components "corroded but not seriously weakened", and I had the parts replaced right away. But there's a lot more with the car you mention, and you've probably already decided not to bother.

    honda - buying a car MOT issues - Gateway88

    How much is it? and how long is the current MOT? Maybe worth a punt if has a full year.

    honda - buying a car MOT issues - edlithgow

    Impossible to say without a price, but impossible to say anyway without looking and poking at it.

    MOT advisorys are (even) more arbitary than MOT fails, but as has been said, IF there is STILL no significant structural weakening, it is possible to slow rust progression right down with a bit of work.

    Its also possible to repair or bodge structural fails to get through an MOT, but both (especially a successful bodge) are more demanding

    I've had some success with concrete on chassis outriggers, and bonding plaster in wheel arches, as well as the more accepted use of welding techniques

    Edited by edlithgow on 22/04/2025 at 01:02

    honda - buying a car MOT issues - edlithgow

    DP

    Edited by edlithgow on 22/04/2025 at 01:13

    honda - buying a car MOT issues - Terry W

    I know this is "precious" but MOT rules are there for a reason, not to be circumvented.

    Steering, suspension and braking components are immediately safety critical and should be replaced. They are most likely to fail under stress caused by sudden inputs - as when braking or cornering hard. You may be willing to take the risk - but you are also responsible for passengers (friends and family)

    Reported rust issues need to be inspected - an opinion cannot be given without hands on, or at the very least photos. Extensive corrosion (in body seams and structural components) means that in an accident a car will basically fall apart. Concrete, plaster etc is not an acceptable solution.

    Emissions may be the only area which has no major safety implications - bodges are a matter of personal environmental conscience.

    Any car with the potential faults described by the OP would need to be very cheap to justify purchase. If unable to properly assess the condition - run, don't walk.

    honda - buying a car MOT issues - edlithgow

    Well, rules need to be written to avoid ambiguity and to some extent create clear pass/fail boundaries, so they tend to exclude nuance and judgement.

    The basis of a bodge, at least the way I'm using the term, in an MOT context, is to hide, rather than properly repair, a structural fault. This indicates only applying it to marginal non-critical faults that in my judgement arent likely to kill me, and it also means I cant be absolutely sure that these were MOT fails, since it was critical that the tester didn't become aware of them.

    One of them was a perforation through the rear of both the front wheel arches on an 1800 Marina, which had a huge rot trap there. I used the bonding plaster to re-create the surface contour, which I then covered with GRP amd underseal. Quite a long way from suspension mounts, but quite big holes.

    PASS. It may have helped that the tester was distracted by my super-strong genuine reconstruction of both chassis rails bottoms and outriggers, probably because I'd re-designed them to use continuous flange welds, which pretty much do themselves, but look different. He spent quite a long time hitting them quite hard with a BFH, totally against the MOT rules, and apparently quite tiring

    I used a thin layer of concrete on a wire mesh armature (a similar structure to that used on ferrocement yachts at the time), inside the drivers side chassis outrigger on my Mk1 Lada to reinforce the crumbly outside, . It seemed fairly strong (I wrote off a Fiesta that pulled out in front of me later with no significant damage to the Lada) and I never use "official"jacking points (the outrigger main function) anyway

    This kind of thing would probably be harder to get away with nowadays because bituminous underseal, which can hide a multitude of sins, probably isnt in nearly as much use on older cars as it was then, perhaps partly because people have reaslised that it tends to encourage rust

    Edited by edlithgow on 22/04/2025 at 12:15

    honda - buying a car MOT issues - madf

    My response to the OP's question:

    If you have to ask, do not buy.

    )You appear not to know about cars so diy repairs will not be an option. AT this age, garage repair bills will be horrendous

    honda - buying a car MOT issues - edlithgow

    My response to the OP's question:

    If you have to ask, do not buy.

    )You appear not to know about cars so diy repairs will not be an option. AT this age, garage repair bills will be horrendous

    While this is almost certainly true, its also probably a bit redundant as advice. Most people who dont "know cars" asking questions on here are probably never seriously going to consider DIY, but in fact rust prevention isn't really technical at all, and even structural work isn't actually very technical, plus (unlike mechanical and electrical work which can now approach DIY impossibility) it has been technically fairly static. WYS (and,perhaps also what you can hide) IWYG.

    I didnt "know cars" at the time of the above repairs/bodges, and IIRC didn;t have a license when I did the Marina, but I had a library card, (Pre Internyet) to learn with. Its true I had access to gas welding gear,but nowadays there are cheap MIGS that might do at a pinch

    I also had plenty of time, since I was unemployed. Thatchers Britain thing. Sooo Last Century, unless it isnt.

    Edited by edlithgow on 24/04/2025 at 02:27

    honda - buying a car MOT issues - Bolt

    Hi im about to buy a car , its an old car 2008, ive checked mot history (below)and im unsure if its worth getting hope you can help.

  • Suspension component corroded but not seriously weakened all round (5.3.3 (b) (i))
  • underbody corrosion
  • Front Oil leak, but not excessive
  • Sub-frame corroded but not seriously weakened (5.3.3 (b) (i)) LAST YEAR
  • Nearside Rear Coil spring corroded
  • Nearside Front Macpherson strut corroded but not seriously weaken
  • Central Exhaust mounting defective (
  • rear axle FEW YEARS BACK
  • I`ve had 5 of these since 2013,

    the problems that one has is normal for usually neglected cars I am at present looking for one as I don`t like or can afford the MK10 so the 8th or ninth gen is in my sights

    to answer, these do suffer these problems but there are good ones about but need searching out, I have got Autotrader and others messaging any that come up and there have been some nice looking ones come on the market but have found problems that are not in the advert so not bothered with them yet