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I wouldn't want to be without my Pela, I've found it great for other uses around the house such as draining down pipes etc. On the lawnmower it saves having to tip the thing over to drain as there's no sump plug
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I wouldn't want to be without my Pela, I've found it great for other uses around the house such as draining down pipes etc. On the lawnmower it saves having to tip the thing over to drain as there's no sump plug
Doh.
To change the oil in my pressure washer pump i've been inverting the thing, why i didn't do exactly the same as when changing power steering fluid i don't know, but thanks to your post i'll be putting that right soon...i use an extended tube on a standard 1 litre transmission oil bottle using it as a vacuum.
I've never used a vacuum pump changing vehicle engine oils and never will, on many vehicles the oil filter is fitted from underneath anyway and i let the engine drain for several hours, overnight on the Landcruiser for oil pick up inspection.
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"I've never used a vacuum pump changing vehicle engine oils and never will, on many vehicles the oil filter is fitted from underneath anyway and i let the engine drain for several hours, overnight on the Landcruiser for oil pick up inspection"
If you think about it GB, in reality it doesn't matter, any coa*** debris left in the bottom of a sump has to first pass through the oil pump pickup screen and then through the oil filter which traps any further microscopic debris from circulating through bearings etc.
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If you think about it GB, in reality it doesn't matter, any coa*** debris left in the bottom of a sump has to first pass through the oil pump pickup screen and then through the oil filter which traps any further microscopic debris from circulating through bearings etc.
Fair points,however the real problem isn't a sliver of casting swarf or silicon sealer, since engine makers started putting Diesel injectors inside the crankcase, as against external screwed/clamped in where a spark plug would traditionally sit, injector blow if it happens, and it does when injector seals weep unseen because now inside the engine, can be an engine wrecker as the oil pick up can become completely blocked over time with caked on carbon, almost no vehicle now comes with an oil pressure gauge so carbon could be building up and gradually starving the engine of oil over thousands of miles before the oil pressure light is triggered.
Many of us with Diesels now leave our engines to drain for several hours, or overnight, to enable visual inspection of the oil pick up strainer for carbon through the drain hole, either directly or via a borescope...i did exactly this myself yesterday, its almost the only thing that will wreck Landcruiser/Hilux Diesel engines, easy on LCs with the 3.0 litre lump because the strainer sits directly above the drain hole.
One of the reasons i ruled out a 3.2 litre Ford Ranger pick up, the oil change of which has to be completed in 20 minutes because someone saw fit to specify an oil pump which can't prime itself.
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"because someone saw fit to specify an oil pump which can't prime itself."
That would seem to be one of the most ridiculous design decisions. What is the reason? How do they prime it at the factory when they're building the car?
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"because someone saw fit to specify an oil pump which can't prime itself."
That would seem to be one of the most ridiculous design decisions. What is the reason? How do they prime it at the factory when they're building the car?
There must be some way to prime the pump, you wouldn't sc*** a perfectly good engine because the sump gasket needed replacing which couldn't be completed within that time frame.
It was John Cadoggan who i first heard this from, you can probably imagine what he had to say about it, seems ludicrous to me for any engine let alone one in a working vehicle.
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"because someone saw fit to specify an oil pump which can't prime itself."
That would seem to be one of the most ridiculous design decisions. What is the reason? How do they prime it at the factory when they're building the car?
There must be some way to prime the pump, you wouldn't sc*** a perfectly good engine because the sump gasket needed replacing which couldn't be completed within that time frame.
It was John Cadoggan who i first heard this from, you can probably imagine what he had to say about it, seems ludicrous to me for any engine let alone one in a working vehicle.
Actually, IIRC (and I think I do) I believe you first heard of it from me.
I heard it from John Cadoggan, and (again, IIRC, and I think I do) he thought it was just fine, essentially because it had been designed by brainy engineers, and he reckons, I suppose correctly, that he is one.
He reserved his rather trademark tediously protracted scorn for the Luddites that didn't like it, like...er...us.
The message was essentially Just Do AS You Are Told, DOOODE.
Not very Australian at all.
Again IIRC (and I'm less sure here) this pump could vary its output independently of engine revs, so reducing parasitic pumping energy losses.
Edited by edlithgow on 05/12/2024 at 02:08
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I've read the DIY fix is to overfill the engine so that the pump is submerged. Once primed, you drain (or suck?) the excess. Maybe that's how the factory do it.
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I've read the DIY fix is to overfill the engine so that the pump is submerged. Once primed, you drain (or suck?) the excess. Maybe that's how the factory do it.
Makes sense for DIY, i would have expected the factory to be able to fill the pump/filter/oilways via a pressure oil feed of some sort, would certainly be interesting to know more.
Sucking excess cold oil out the dipstick tube (does it even have one?) isn't going to be easy so fitting a Fumoto or similar oil drain valve would make that faff a little less messy than otherwise...its all seems nonsense to me, never come across an engine that couldn't prime itself before, at one time Fords were the easiest vehicles to work on.
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I mentioned the ranger oil pump problem on the Ford thread I started last week, I've no idea of the technicalities but I do know of someone that had a new engine courtesy of Ford when his dealer allowed a trainee to perform a oil change unsupervised/ uneducated, poor lad drained the oil then went lunch....
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Done a bit of digging and apparently the pump fitted to both the 2.2 and 3.2 is a vane type pump rather than a geared affair which simply doesn't have the suction to prime, I've got a vane driven external pump on one of my aquariums and it is a pain to prime.
Again apparently and I couldn't find specific details but there is method to prime them if left to long involving vastly over filling the engine with oil then leaving it for 24 hours.
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Done a bit of digging and apparently the pump fitted to both the 2.2 and 3.2 is a vane type pump rather than a geared affair which simply doesn't have the suction to prime, I've got a vane driven external pump on one of my aquariums and it is a pain to prime.
Again apparently and I couldn't find specific details but there is method to prime them if left to long involving vastly over filling the engine with oil then leaving it for 24 hours.
Dear Lord, what a faff and for what worthwhile benefit when balanced against the robustness required of an industrial vehicle, one that is designed and equipped for off road use to boot.
Didn't know the 2.2 lump suffered with the same hobbling.
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I vaguely remember when the 3.2 litre Ford lump was introduced, this oil pump prime problem was highlighted, and the answer was a special tool that involved removing an oil gallery plug, screwing the tool into the hole and pressurising the gallery with oil which also primed the pump.
I have no memory of where I saw or read it but it seems to make basic workshop sense.
Going further back in my memory, when working for a well known engine manufacturer, I was tasked with a visit to a commercial engine customer to investigate a no-oil-pressure-on start up on a new crate engine. Yup - sure enough no oil pressure on the panel gauge, remove sender from block, no oil delivered. So, engine out - a 250 hp straight six, hanging on the crane, the sump was removed to reveal a perfect oil pump, with no oil pickup pipe and strainer to the sump fitted. I ordered a replacement engine from the warehouse on 24 hour delivery - end of my problem.
Back at the office I called up the engine test report from the factory, which revealed a normal oil pressure reading signed and dated by the tester - Ooops!
When we complained to the factory there was just a corporate shoulder shrug and a suggestion that the oil pickup pipe had been removed after testing, much merriment and p*** taking in our office after that.
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"I've never used a vacuum pump changing vehicle engine oils and never will, on many vehicles the oil filter is fitted from underneath anyway and i let the engine drain for several hours, overnight on the Landcruiser for oil pick up inspection"
If you think about it GB, in reality it doesn't matter, any coa*** debris left in the bottom of a sump has to first pass through the oil pump pickup screen and then through the oil filter which traps any further microscopic debris from circulating through bearings etc.
Nope, the oil filter traps some microscopic debris from circulating through bearings. It lets a lot through.
The cutoff will vary with the filter and wont be an absolute value anyway. Can't remember the numbers for sure but 20 microns seems vaguely familiar as a "good" value in context. This is why people that care, such as big trucks and ships, use supplementary fine bypass and centrifugal oil filters.
When I got the Skywing it had a lot of circulating ferrous metal in the oil which would settle out on the dipstick (which was at an angle) on a long stand.
AC Delco oil filter but I doubt any other generally available brand would have been much better.
Except maybe one with magnets in or on it. I got a locally produced one of these from my GF's mechanic uncle (I believe they were a commercial flop) but its still in a cupboard.
Perhaps it'd fit the Yanmar?
Edited by edlithgow on 05/12/2024 at 23:25
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