In my limited experience, fairly easy (and oddly satisfying) to rebuild as long as you ignore the prevailing Internyet advice to use compressed air to blow out the piston, and just use your brake pedal, which is built for the job.
This assumes a complete strip, which might not be needed if its just your caliper sticking.
Silicone grease and a PTFE thread tape wrap on the slider pins (after cleanup with aluminium foil) seems to work and last well.
I avoid any wet lubricant on the surfaces where the pad ears rest, usually provided with SS clips. I wrap the ears with PTFE tape, and rub the SS surface with a 2B pencil.
The caliper surface behind the clips I rust treat with aluminium and sunflower oil, otherwise rust jacking of the clips can jam the pads. Since I;m doing that anyway I do the whole caliper, which isn't really necessary.
Never dealt with an ABS system, which might be a lot more grief, but if you arent removing the piston you wont have to either.
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Maybe above is naively optimistic, being based on fully stripping just one 37 year old system (1986 Daihatsu Skywing), excluding master cylinder.
Currently looking at a roughly contemporary Yamaha motorcycle, which is quite a bit more advanced, and very much worse.
On the front. single piston hydraulic brake are three slider pins, two outer caliper mount ones which have 14mm hex heads in the middle (?!) hidden under the rubber boot remains. There MIGHT be a slim chance of moving these if I can score access to a vice.
There is also a central pin,, which appears to pass through the brake pads, so they cant be removed unless it is. This has an utterly pathetic wee allen socket head, and isnt going anywhere until the (alloy, I think) caliper is in the smelter.
So it was possible to implement an un-maintainable system even in the 80's, (I b***** hate motorcycles) and it would be surprising if car manufacturers havnt achieved that over the past 38 years of continuous striving.
Edited by edlithgow on 11/04/2024 at 00:20
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