|
Hmm...goes on a bit, and rather poor camera work. The "money shot" of the engine damage, in particular, is very unclear and so not very informative.
No real argument with the message though I'd say his "cost of job spread over 60 months should be less than half the new car payment" guideline is no more or less arbitrary than any other that fails to acknowledge how much worse the new car is likely to be.,
I'd want my new short block to be a bit better wrapped
I'd attribute this failure to c***py oil as well as overextended OCI's. I don't mean "cheap oil". I mean that, IMO, the specified oil is likely to be much less than ideal, but of course you probably dont have any option if you want to maintain the warranty.
Clogged oil rings tend to be due to viscosity improver degradation products, stuff a bit like synthetic rubber pencil eraser. He mentions 0W20 oil, which will have a high VII loading in order to render the low viscosity base oil usable .
Use of an oil with more actual lubricant in it, say a 15W40 truck oil, which will also have more decoking detergent in it, would probably have avoided this problem.
Running an old car in Taiwan I didn't have to worry about low temperatures, warranty, or marginal mpg differences, and ran a blend of Mobil Delvac 15W40 and CPC SAE 40, for higher viscosity and lower VII loading, since the SAE40 has no VII. Cleared the initially visible varnish right out.
If the cops hadn't got the car I would probably have switched to straight SAE40, since Carrefour had stopped stocking the Delvac. This should have been OK in Taiwan temperatures.
Edited by edlithgow on 21/03/2024 at 01:03
|
