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Would be interested in where the Jazz was built SLO.
From memory the 06 / 07 were built in China , 59 plate probably in Swindon but some still came from Japan.
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Does the build location actually matter? Genuine question, not being facetious.
I often read Japanese-made cars are better built vs British made ones. And they get less rust treatment than British assembled because Japan doesn’t salt the roads. How truthful is this?
One would think Japanese made cars for Europe would get adequate rust treatment.
I believe pre-2009 Jazz for the UK were made in Japan. Post 2009 in Swindon.
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Just spent an interesting couple of hours car shopping with mother dear. Looked at a 2018 Hyundai i10 1.0 SE (£8695) which was much nicer to drive than her Jazz and much more civilised inside than an Aygo/C1/108. It drove perfectly and looks very clean, with only a couple of minor scuffs to detract from it. The service record however was typical PCP/Lease car, as in it wasn’t main dealer and there’s one fake stamp at year 4 when it no doubt came to the end of term (the dealer has also serviced it since) and the previous keeper had drilled a hands free car cradle to the top of the dash which kills any deal stone dead. The manager is arranging to have it repaired and has offered £1,500 for her 2009 Jazz with no Mot which is very decent. I’d opt for an i10 but I’d probably ask him to find another.
We then looked at a Peugeot 108 but this was rejected because she felt it was cheap and nasty inside. I rate these wee cars, but they are built down to a price. We then moved on to a Kia Picanto 1.0 base model, which was a very tidy little car with dealer history and 4yrs of warranty left. A good car, but then ones elderly mother dear decided that she doesn’t want change and wants another Jazz.
Next stop was the local Honda dealer to try a Mk III Jazz. This was dismissed due to cost and it being “much larger” than her car. So, we’re now left with only two options, fix her own car or find another newer Mk II that’s done less miles than her own - I think it has 39k up. So it’s going in for a wee bit of welding next week at the usual weak point on the offside sill just forward of the rear arch, it’s hardly the disaster the garage suggested to her. I took a good look at her wee car and it’s otherwise very sound so it’ll be mend and make do for now, but I will keep an eye out for a nice low mileage Mk II.
Edited by SLO76 on 03/09/2023 at 14:59
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Will your mother missed the silky smoothness of the four cylinder Jazz to be replaced by the missing torque low down in three cylinder cars ?
Did earlier I 10 s have four cylinders later to be replace by the three?
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You could let her have a try driving your Leaf. I don't know what the instrument panel, etc are like on an electric car but if it is not like a jumbo jet controls she might like it. From what you are saying about the Leaf it sounds good for local motoring. As for the Jazz - rust never sleeps but you might be able to keep it at bay for another year or so.
Too big and too complex for her now. If I could jump in a Time Machine and bring back a new base model Honda Jazz from 2009 she’d be delighted.
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First of all, thank you for updating the forum
Locally there has been a 51 plate red Fiesta with 22,000 miles positioned at the front of an independents sales pitch for months, advertised at £4995!
I have drove past it for months and commented it will never sell.
Well only a few weeks ago, there it was on a Saturday morning in Morrisons car park in use by a elderly couple.
Im amazed its lasted so long being a push rod engine not to mention those fiestas where renowned for rust.
I have no idea what it sold for but that is one of the best examples of over priced cars i can think of.
I forgot to add, one way to avoid the price rise is to buy an accident damaged car.
If your planning to keep it for a good few years, you find the accident damage pictures to see what happened (buy a report) and you find a decent repairer you can often save 50-60%.
Edited by daveyK_UK on 03/09/2023 at 15:21
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one way to avoid the price rise is to buy an accident damaged car. If your planning to keep it for a good few years, you find the accident damage pictures to see what happened (buy a report) and you find a decent repairer you can often save 50-60%.
I wouldn't do that. I know a few folk who thought that was a good path to go down, only to regret it when they rotted teminally. The problem seems to be the repaired areas aren't as well protectected from corrosion as new. Also, any welding can't be fully protected if it's in a hidden spot, as the heat will destroy any existing protection.
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Thats sad to read
I have only heard good experiences, i think the key is lots of research and having a repairer/seller with a good reputation.
For example, last summer (think it was June 22), Vauxhall Astra 1.4 turbo petrol design trim for £4.9k (it was advertised at £5k) with a full MOT.
The hpi report he paid for showed the copart advert including photos of all the damage.
It would not be my first choice of car but he’s had no issues so far , he had to pay for an aircon re-gas this summer.
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Thats sad to read I have only heard good experiences, i think the key is lots of research and having a repairer/seller with a good reputation.
Even a repair by a well regarded bodyshop is not going to be able to match the factory for rust resistance. If they were to spend a lot of time and money treating the car with a proper anti rust product, maybe. But at the end of the day, it is highly unlikely they would go to that much trouble, they are doing it to make money after all.
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Any write-off will almost certainly have been cheaply repaired by a non-insurance approved workshop using pattern parts which simply don’t fit correctly or have the same rust resistance as the original parts. I wouldn’t touch one and I can spot them a mile off, they’re never right and no one wants them when you come to sell it on.
The only time I’d consider a write-off would be on an older sub £2,000 car that has been deemed an uneconomic repair because of a simple parking knock etc. Any car at £5k plus would need to have suffered a substantial hit in order to have been written-off. It’s just not something I’d buy or recommend to anyone. I’ve yet to see one that was right.
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SLO, would it make sense to have the Jazz waxoyled or similar to help prolong its life I can recommend Lanoguard, incredibly easy to use, although ideally should be applied every year.
A neighbour has a 2009 Jazz, bought new, just 43,000 miles covered, no mention of rust yet on any MOT.
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SLO, would it make sense to have the Jazz waxoyled or similar to help prolong its life I can recommend Lanoguard, incredibly easy to use, although ideally should be applied every year.
A neighbour has a 2009 Jazz, bought new, just 43,000 miles covered, no mention of rust yet on any MOT.
Really only worthwhile if you do it when the car is new or nearly new.
A few days ago my mother had a 2009 Honda Jazz, bought new with no mentions of rust on any Mot.
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SLO…with this mind (write off repairs)…what would you say to repairing my 08 Yaris. Deemed uneconomical to repair and awaiting final valuation by insurance. A bodywork place that buys salvage cars to repair and resell has given an estimate of circa £500. This involves replacement drivers front wing, light and wheel bearing, right strut and front bumper.
It has only done 60k miles and drove perfectly prior to crash. I’ve no intention of reselling the car and will instead be using it as a workhorse til death.
Edited by Moodyman on 03/09/2023 at 23:46
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SLO…with this mind (write off repairs)…what would you say to repairing my 08 Yaris. Deemed uneconomical to repair and awaiting final valuation by insurance. A bodywork place that buys salvage cars to repair and resell has given an estimate of circa £500. This involves replacement drivers front wing, light and wheel bearing, right strut and front bumper.
It has only done 60k miles and drove perfectly prior to crash. I’ve no intention of reselling the car and will instead be using it as a workhorse til death.
Wee cheap but reliable car like that is well worth repairing for £500. I’d fix it.
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SLO…with this mind (write off repairs)…what would you say to repairing my 08 Yaris.
Wee cheap but reliable car like that is well worth repairing for £500. I’d fix it.
I initially thought you were asking @SLO to fix your car.
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Interesting read. Mrs SD has a 2005 plate 1.4 CVT Jazz that has just passed its MOT running even cleaner than last year. No advisories. Bought at 6 months old from local Honda dealer. We are prepared to buy a '14 or '15 plate to replace it, and fully expected to again this year. It has rust on the rear doors (hidden when shut) and early in its MOT life the surface rust on the underside was mentioned in conversation with our (then) go-to local indie. She also thinks the newer versions are "too big" (who am I to argue ?) It is the longest we've ever owned a motorised vehicle. We had a major issue early on when the fuel pressure regulator was damaged during a dealer service and later on, some misfiring; cured by running the plugs at a smaller gap than recommended. I service the car now. Not the greatest drive but almost irreplaceable....
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That Honda i'd get it welded properly not just a quick fix for this MOT and then get someone to wash and clean the underside then blast it fully with chain lube or some other oil product including every orifice/cavity.
Once rust has a start the more solid treatments, eg Dinitrol/Bilt Hamber/Waxoyl/Lanoguard, arn't effective enough in my experience unless you are prepared to inspect and recoat every year, you need oil based to seep right into the seams, plus a recoat oil spray takes minutes not hours.
I've used various treatments over many years, i find Bilt Hambers cavity waxes are one of the best for cavities because the probes that come with their large aerosols (which never block) allow full coverage inside sills doors boot/bonnet and cavities.
For underbody coverage of anything other than new or JDM import (never seen salt), i now use waterproof marine grease hand lathered onto chassis suspension and high abrasion areas, and use ACF50 as a whole underbody spray once or twice a year, not forgetting to paint the exhaust with zinc.
My method is time consuming first time and initially expensive because ACF50 isn't cheap by any means nor is Bilt Hamber's finest, you probably won't want to get that involved.
For your Honda situation SLO i reckon a competent welder sorting out the immediate issues and using his judgement to sort out any further weakening areas, followed by a good coating in chain lube or similar oil that Honda will be around for a good few years yet, if its costs £1000 this year for the above thats nothing compared to the cost of a replacement vehicle at todays ridiculous prices...plus unless you travel to get a south of England car the chances are you'll end up in the same boat a few short years down the line after spending £xxxx on said replacement.
Edited by gordonbennet on 04/09/2023 at 13:27
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After calling round local garages and finding none do welding, the two recommendations I received are snowed under for 4-6wks with work and are “not looking for more” combined with the very generous £1,500 offer for her car (with no Mot) from the A/C branch she’s used since her car was new and the decision has been made to buy a red Mk III Jazz with 19,000 miles they’ve just brought in for her from another branch. The staff here are genuinely very good and the deal is pretty fair. Plus it should save me any hassle over the next few years. Her wee car will no doubt live on via some small backstreet dealer with the ability to fix it.
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