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ANY - No Torque Wrench, No Problem? - edlithgow

My Torque wrench is a cheapo torsion beam type. Not very precise but they are more robust than the “clicky” type, which is why I brought it back from the Yook. Cant get them in Taiwan, according to the Ktown tool shops.

There isn’t clearance to use it on any bolts on the front end of the engine when its in the car, apart from the crankshaft pulley bolt, which is accessible through a port in the wheel well. I cant get a ratchet or a breaker bar on them either so its likely any torque wrench won’t fit.

IOW there probably isn’t a “right tool” for the job

I have to use ring or open-ended spanners on these other bolts, but in principle one could apply a measured force to these with a calibrated spring, giving a torquing capability.

I’m using the luggage scale method outlined here, except I dont have a (working) luggage scale.

engineeringtoolbox.comImprovised Torque Wrench

Improvise a torque wrench with a luggage scale.

Crude substitute is half a bike inner tube, cut ends knotted together, with a few turns of Norfolk whipping bootlace above the knot, finished in a reef knot. Shorter loose end is tied to the spanner, longer gets used to measure (and limit) the applied tension. Steel tube through inner tube loop forms T-handle for the pull.

Calibrated by hanging a jerrycan from it and filling with water. (1L water taken as 1kg.) supplemented with 2 X1.9kg iron weights. Not VERY linear (deviations seem to be after loading up the iron) but probably close enough.

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forumosauploads-12829.kxcdn.com/original/3X/4/4/44...g

forumosauploads-12829.kxcdn.com/original/3X/4/4/44...g


Torque = Force X length =mgL
Torque spec. for cam pulley bolt 40nm. Ring spanner 0.22m long ring to ring
m =40/(9.8X0.22) =18.55kg

from above regression line eqn, length for this force =1.65x18.55+25.13 =55,73cms

Snags? (apart from maybe getting the arithmetic wrong)
(a) If that spanner comes off it'll likely whack the operator pretty hard. Should probably give it a tether.
(b) A “clicky” torque wrench stops applying torque as soon as the spring pressure is exceeded. With this the operator has to stop applying torque, as with the torsion beam type. Likely both clicky and these are affected by operator technique, but to different extents.

Of course in general no torque wrench would be no problem, because I seldom use one, but for some things I feel I should.

An alternative in such cases would be to mark the original angular fastner position (too late, didn't think of it) and simply restore it, a turn-of-the-nut method without the need to translate from a torque spec.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qs0Kktf-2Uk

Here's yon Hubnut geezer doing essentially this (about 3 minutes in) with a crankshaft pulley bolt.

This does involve the assumption that it wasn't too badly wrong in the first place, but (apart from, say, where one has a blown head gasket) this should be mostly valid.

Edited by edlithgow on 15/08/2023 at 03:47

ANY - No Torque Wrench, No Problem? - bathtub tom

Decades ago, I was taught the (roughly) correct torque for any nut/bolt was the maximum force you could put on the correct size spanner with two fingers.

ANY - No Torque Wrench, No Problem? - edlithgow

Decades ago, I was taught the (roughly) correct torque for any nut/bolt was the maximum force you could put on the correct size spanner with two fingers.

I n my long undistinguished and intermittent mechanical meanderings I've never been very concerned about torque.

Not sure, but I think the last time I used a torque wrench was the last time I took a cylinder head off, on a BMC 1800 Maarina maybe 40 years ago,

I'm thinking about it a bit now though, and I'm pretty sure that most if not all of the fastners I have put on by feel have been MUCH less tight than the "official" torque specs, yet my wheels havnt fallen off.

Your rule of...er...The Two Fingers seems to be in line with this.

I'm fairly sure that would be A LOT less than 40Nm in the case of the above cam pulley bolt, and if I tried to apply 40Nm with 2 fingers I'd probably dislocate them.

I still pretty sure a torque setting is optional for just about everything except head bolts and (maybe) cam and crank bolts

Edited by edlithgow on 15/08/2023 at 11:01

ANY - No Torque Wrench, No Problem? - John F

I still pretty sure a torque setting is optional for just about everything except head bolts and (maybe) cam and crank bolts

I also have a cheapo torsion beam type, probably nearly 50yrs old now. I use it for wheel nuts, to ensure I can remove them if puncture, and spark plugs, to ensure I don't strip the head's aluminium thread. Give or take 5 ftlb is precise enough for me.

ANY - No Torque Wrench, No Problem? - edlithgow

I still pretty sure a torque setting is optional for just about everything except head bolts and (maybe) cam and crank bolts

I also have a cheapo torsion beam type, probably nearly 50yrs old now. I use it for wheel nuts, to ensure I can remove them if puncture, and spark plugs, to ensure I don't strip the head's aluminium thread. Give or take 5 ftlb is precise enough for me.

I ensure I can remove wheel nuts by greasing the studs and latterly, (for the last 10 years or so) putting polythene sheet on them too, which I think has a nylock stylee effect

Never used a torque wrench on them, but I did recently come across the torque spec, which was pretty high, even if its intended to be a dry spec,

(Though if it is, since I'm not ever doing them dry, I suppose I could cut it by 25%. Or something. None of the std lubrication "adjustment" tables include polythene sheet of course, which, if it IS like Nyloc, puts additional torsional stress on the fastner, so we might be back where we started, er, roughly)

65-87 ft lbs. Since the lug wrench in the toolkit is probably only about a foot long, thats about equivalent to the same weight, or about 36kgs, 18 kgs a finger with the 2-finger rule above.

Thats gotta huyt

In the above cam sprocket bolt case, if my sums are right thats about 10kgs a finger. Not sure I could do that either.

Perhaps we have to apply an arthritis factor to account for the time elapsed since apprenticeship.

I just snug wheel nuts up with one hand, giving me the option of two hands and a cheater pipe when taking them off

I might do a comparison sometime, if idle curiosity compells

Never seen any need to use a torque wrench on spark plugs either, though I do now see a need to make very sure I don;t cross-thread them (again), which sadly a torque wrench would probably not have prevented.

Edited by edlithgow on 16/08/2023 at 00:43

ANY - No Torque Wrench, No Problem? - John F

Never seen any need to use a torque wrench on spark plugs either, though I do now see a need to make very sure I don;t cross-thread them (again), which sadly a torque wrench would probably not have prevented.

It might have done. For modernaluminium heads with their relatively soft threads the plug tightening torque is usually no more than around 20ftlb, which requires very little strength. An experienced mechanic will be able to judge this with practice, but for the diy amateur mechanic who wishes to avoid an expensive helicoil experience (which fortunately I have never yet had), it's wise to use a torque wrench.

ANY - No Torque Wrench, No Problem? - edlithgow

I think, given that I use one so rarely, that if I didn't already have one, I wouldn't now buy a torque wrench. This homemade lashup is lighter, more robust (the beam-type are pretty robust but the pointer can get bent), more flexible, and of course cheaper.

It'd be quite easy to make a few tailored to different ranges, say an inch-lb range, if one needed that.

It could perhaps be improved a bit by substituting a wee chain for the measuring/limiting string, more adjustable and no stretch

A spring balance would save the calibration step, but would be more difficult to use since you'd have to watch the dial/scale which is generally sideways on to your line of sight. (Mirror?)

The electronic luggage balances, which do offer top-reading, seem to be fragile (GF's is bust) and need batteries.

Edited by edlithgow on 18/08/2023 at 03:36

ANY - No Torque Wrench, No Problem? - edlithgow

Lashings of lashings. Attempting to hold the cam sprocket while I torque it.

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Still shifted, but didn’t jam so firmly as when following the “Use a screwdriver, because we believe in miracles” directions in the manual, so could be forced back, hopefully without having damaged valves.

... a Wizard Wheese. Torqueing thing getting set. The tether was a bit of rope that was to hand and didn’t really have to be that hefty.

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...and a Rotten Show. Think they sold me the wrong cambelt. I can get the original back on, but the new one doesn’t look physically possible. Some of that could be wear, but I doubt it all is.

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CnC. Outer is the Japanese original

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ANY - No Torque Wrench, No Problem? - John F

....and a Rotten Show. Think they sold me the wrong cambelt.

They sure did! Original looks OK. How many miles has it done? I would probably reuse it and ask for my money back for the obviously wrong'un.

ANY - No Torque Wrench, No Problem? - edlithgow

Yeh, I wasn't VERY keen on replacing it, especially as the original was Japanesium while the replacement was Chinesium, and the car may never run again anyway.

Its been in for 12 years, though, and one gets a bit tired of always head butting "recieved opinion".

Certainly if I can't get a correct replacement (village mechanic says he can't get one, "car is too old" but I havn't tried back at source yet) I'll just put the oldun back on.

It looked ok but now I've struggled with it a bit its slightly frayed at the corners

ANY - No Torque Wrench, No Problem? - edlithgow

Got towed, so it'll be taking its shiny new cambelt to the crusher.

If I'd had some warning I could possibly have rented some off-road space, but they'll likely have damaged it in removal, since the engine mountings and exhaust manifold were detached, so that'll be that.

They got some tools which I'll try and get back if they havn't already disappeared (bureau is closed tomorrow for some unknown reason according to the cops) but otherwise the end of an error.

ANY - No Torque Wrench, No Problem? - bathtub tom

Got towed, so it'll be taking its shiny new cambelt to the crusher.

Sorry to hear that, the saga's been amusing no end of folk.

ANY - No Torque Wrench, No Problem? - edlithgow

Plus theres this...

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ANY - No Torque Wrench, No Problem? - edlithgow
An experienced mechanic will be able to judge this with practice, but for the diy amateur mechanic who wishes to avoid an expensive helicoil experience (which fortunately I have never yet had), it's wise to use a torque wrench.

Heres Mr O, torqeuing a spark plug like a pro, 6.20 in

www.youtube.com/watch?v=WaXpWsoFyb0

Edited by edlithgow on 01/09/2023 at 01:08