My Torque wrench is a cheapo torsion beam type. Not very precise but they are more robust than the “clicky” type, which is why I brought it back from the Yook. Cant get them in Taiwan, according to the Ktown tool shops.
There isn’t clearance to use it on any bolts on the front end of the engine when its in the car, apart from the crankshaft pulley bolt, which is accessible through a port in the wheel well. I cant get a ratchet or a breaker bar on them either so its likely any torque wrench won’t fit.
IOW there probably isn’t a “right tool” for the job
I have to use ring or open-ended spanners on these other bolts, but in principle one could apply a measured force to these with a calibrated spring, giving a torquing capability.
I’m using the luggage scale method outlined here, except I dont have a (working) luggage scale.
engineeringtoolbox.comImprovised Torque Wrench
Improvise a torque wrench with a luggage scale.
Crude substitute is half a bike inner tube, cut ends knotted together, with a few turns of Norfolk whipping bootlace above the knot, finished in a reef knot. Shorter loose end is tied to the spanner, longer gets used to measure (and limit) the applied tension. Steel tube through inner tube loop forms T-handle for the pull.
Calibrated by hanging a jerrycan from it and filling with water. (1L water taken as 1kg.) supplemented with 2 X1.9kg iron weights. Not VERY linear (deviations seem to be after loading up the iron) but probably close enough.
forumosauploads-12829.kxcdn.com/original/3X/4/0/40...g
forumosauploads-12829.kxcdn.com/original/3X/4/4/44...g
forumosauploads-12829.kxcdn.com/original/3X/4/4/44...g
Torque = Force X length =mgL Torque spec. for cam pulley bolt 40nm. Ring spanner 0.22m long ring to ring m =40/(9.8X0.22) =18.55kg
from above regression line eqn, length for this force =1.65x18.55+25.13 =55,73cms
Snags? (apart from maybe getting the arithmetic wrong) (a) If that spanner comes off it'll likely whack the operator pretty hard. Should probably give it a tether. (b) A “clicky” torque wrench stops applying torque as soon as the spring pressure is exceeded. With this the operator has to stop applying torque, as with the torsion beam type. Likely both clicky and these are affected by operator technique, but to different extents.
Of course in general no torque wrench would be no problem, because I seldom use one, but for some things I feel I should.
An alternative in such cases would be to mark the original angular fastner position (too late, didn't think of it) and simply restore it, a turn-of-the-nut method without the need to translate from a torque spec.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qs0Kktf-2Uk
Here's yon Hubnut geezer doing essentially this (about 3 minutes in) with a crankshaft pulley bolt.
This does involve the assumption that it wasn't too badly wrong in the first place, but (apart from, say, where one has a blown head gasket) this should be mostly valid.
Edited by edlithgow on 15/08/2023 at 03:47
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