There is if you don't service them, i.e. clean and grease them. This is not usually done at a garage 'service' because they like the work of replacing them when they get too rusty.
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My car is serviced at the beginning of September + MoT - at a local Indie I have used for 25 years+
This year it will be a service + MoT + anything needing looked at - this includes wheels off, disk brakes stripped down cleaned, greased and the handbrake drum brakes (integrated with disk) cleaned out & adjusted.
The Bi-annual Brake fettling is around £50+vat - a lot cheaper than sticking pads/scored disks and early replacement of discs & / or pads. Changing brake fluid in all probability is another £40 or so
The Honda fixed price discs & pads is £346 for front & the same for the back. £50 every 2 years seems a bargain buy
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I had a recent SERVICE notification that my rear flexi brake hoses were corroded-4 yr old car car passed MOT though with no formal advisory .On reflection, due to their location, there’s always surface rust on brake hoses /pipes isn’t there?
Brake hoses are rubber, but the end fittings can rust.
If you wipe a bit of sunflower oil on steel pipes and then rub them with aluminium foil they look pretty good afterwards and (providing there isn't heavy rain before it sets) it'll last a long time, probably even in Scotland, certainly here in Taiwan.
I did this on mine and then brought a brake flare kit and copper pipe back from the UK. since I wasnt sure I could get that stuff here.
Neednt have bothered, 7 years later the oil foil still looks OK.
While appearance is important for the MOT, very corroded brake pipes are weakened and shouldn't be hidden by this treatment.
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I had a recent SERVICE notification that my rear flexi brake hoses were corroded-4 yr old car car passed MOT though with no formal advisory .On reflection, due to their location, there’s always surface rust on brake hoses /pipes isn’t there?
Brake hoses are rubber, but the end fittings can rust.
If you wipe a bit of sunflower oil on steel pipes and then rub them with aluminium foil they look pretty good afterwards and (providing there isn't heavy rain before it sets) it'll last a long time, probably even in Scotland, certainly here in Taiwan.
I did this on mine and then brought a brake flare kit and copper pipe back from the UK. since I wasnt sure I could get that stuff here.
Neednt have bothered, 7 years later the oil foil still looks OK.
While appearance is important for the MOT, very corroded brake pipes are weakened and shouldn't be hidden by this treatment.
I doubt sunflower oil would stay on steel here in UK as we have so much salt sprayed on the road during the winter, so its not worth doing, may as well have the flexi pipes replaced as and when needed, I noticed that a lot use grease on steel pipes but end up with advisories for covering the pipe....
as for lipped discs, unless the discs are new, its rare to see a motor without lipped discs but as long as they are within OEM limits and brake fine then ok.
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I had a recent SERVICE notification that my rear flexi brake hoses were corroded-4 yr old car car passed MOT though with no formal advisory .On reflection, due to their location, there’s always surface rust on brake hoses /pipes isn’t there?
Brake hoses are rubber, but the end fittings can rust.
If you wipe a bit of sunflower oil on steel pipes and then rub them with aluminium foil they look pretty good afterwards and (providing there isn't heavy rain before it sets) it'll last a long time, probably even in Scotland, certainly here in Taiwan.
I did this on mine and then brought a brake flare kit and copper pipe back from the UK. since I wasnt sure I could get that stuff here.
Neednt have bothered, 7 years later the oil foil still looks OK.
While appearance is important for the MOT, very corroded brake pipes are weakened and shouldn't be hidden by this treatment.
I doubt sunflower oil would stay on steel here in UK as we have so much salt sprayed on the road during the winter, so its not worth doing...
Doubt is healthy, but for certainty, you have to test...
I havn't tested it in the UK since I didn't think of it until after I got here, but its pretty tough once polymerised, so I THINK it would hold up well, probably at least as well as grease, which you could in any case apply over the top of it.
An advantage over grease is that it is much better cosmetically, looking like galvanising. Cosmetics are important for the MOT, and I have heard of them objecting to grease because it would prevent them from spotting fluid leaks.
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For UK conditions, it might be worth using linseed oil ("boiled" or natural) as an aluminium binder, since it would set quicker.
That would be hard to find here in Taiwan, but fortunately for most of my purposes it isn't really necessary.
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Our 2012 Jazz is on original shiny disks. no lips.
Every 2-3 years I rotate the hub (jacked up,wheel off ) with a screwdriver tip applied to the lip
After 2 or so rotations ,no lip. Repeat other wheel.
But then I diy and service brakes..
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Presumably you can get Tung oil in Taiwan? It's is a good drying oil and produces a waterproof coating as does soya bean oil.
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Well spotted. I believe you can get Tung oil.
I think its a component in a traditional boat caulking, (with IIRC oyster shell lime and coconut fibre. Potential "Bondo" substitute?) and I've been told by some of my adult evening class students they used it during their National Service to treat the brass buckles on parade dress uniforms.
I've just never got around to noting down the Chinese character and locating some, since for most of my purposes sunflower oil is good enough and dries fast enough in the local climate.
For some purposes, notably underbody anti-rust treatment, you perhaps don't want it to set fast, since you want to give it soak-and-creep-time. Castor oil is probably relatively stable but a bit expensive, followed by rape seed/canola, which is available fairly cheaply.
I didn't know soya oil was classed as a drying oil, but when I've used it my impression (no systematic study) was it had a greater tendency to grow mould, a hazard here especially in enclosed spaces, given the high humidity.
Edited by edlithgow on 14/06/2022 at 00:42
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Apologies for the nanny state interjection, but please be careful selecting and using oils. Once you get away from stuff you'd eat, some are very flammable. A lot of shop-bought stuff contains solvents to keep it liquid. Most teak oil, for instance, contains enough VOCs to create a risk of self-ignition.
A friend of mine who builds guitars uses tung oil and applies it with cotton rags that are put into a bucket of water when he's done.
In short, probably avoid anything with high VOC levels, and make sure it doesn't get on anything hot.
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IIRC Waxoyl (which I've only used once, and didn't like that much) is/was thinned with white spirit, which probably renders it quite flammable.
In the past, when spraying oils (usually a mixture of new motor oil and sunflower oil) I've used diesel as a thinner, which smells worse and might be a dermatitis risk, but isnt very flammable.
I think the rags thing perhaps relates to a spontaneous combustion risk, rather than VOC content per se. As I understand it, the large surface area of the rag can give rise to very rapid oxidation of the oil (which has a lot of unsaturated bonds, which is what makes it a drying oil)
This rapid large scale oxidation can raise the temperature above the ignition point.
If I was applying Tung oil to a surface I'd probably be too stingy to use a rag. Even with sunflower oil I usually use a plastic bag glove stylee to spread it, and the plastic doesn't absorb much.
With brake pipes we are talking about a tiny amount, rubbed in with a ball of compressed aluminium foil which conforms to the shape of the pipe. The foil ball can get pretty hot but thats probably friction, and maybe surface oxidation of the aluminium.
Then again some people put petrol in their cars. Doesn't bear thinking about.
They make napalm with it, you know.
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I'm not saying don't do it, I would just hate someone to burn their house down and realise they made a schoolboy error afterwards.
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Fair enough.
I suppose the spontaneous combustion thing is a bit of a gotcha because its a bit counter intuitive, and in fact tends to especially apply to materials that are not normally especially flammable.
Petrol, for example, is horribly flammable stuff (they make napalm with it, you know) but it isn't likely to spontaneously combust.
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Petrol, for example, is horribly flammable stuff (they make napalm with it, you know) but it isn't likely to spontaneously combust.
Petrol is indeed horribly flammable / explosive stuff. Back in the day when stripping cars down, inc removing petrol tank/lines etc, ready to do body work now matter how much I'd ventilated / waited etc I learnt to look away on the first weld as used to sometimes get a mini "poooof" on the first spark of a weld. Not much but enough to shorten your eye lashes!
The other issue was avoiding setting fire to anything else - I always tried to keep another person handy to keep an eye out. There are lots of potentially flammable things associated with a car.
Edited by Big John on 14/06/2022 at 22:24
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2 near-death experiences with petrol, though really impossible to say how near
1) Knocked up by nosey neighbor woman saying my 1800 Marina was leaking petrol from its (brimmed last night, naturally) tank down the street gutter under lots of much more expensive cars.
What to do? Believing that siphoning petrol from a full tank was only likely to work in the movies, I elected to remove the tank and decant.
Lying under the car in a pool of petrol, with the tank lowered onto my chest, I was disconnecting the float sender and worrying about sparks (did I disconnect the battery?) when I became conscious of a face down beside the car.
Nosey neighbor woman. "How are you getting on?"
Did I mention she was a chain smoker?
Couldn't speak at first, then I had to be frigidly polite to avoid agitating the stupid cow, and the long piece of glowing ash just above the gutter.
2) Same car. My First Welding, using TA oxyacetylene kit and the TA inspection pit.
LUXURY
Whats that thing inside this box section that I'm welding a new floor on, directly over my head?
Looks like a plastic pipe. I can tell its plastic because its melting a bit in the heat of the oxyacetylene flame.
Looks like a plastic fuel line, because thats what it is.
OOER!
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