especially now some pricey chassis related items are expected in the next 12 months.
Can you expand on this?.
I ask, because depending on just what you mean by it, I'd definitely keep your current car. Mechanically those things are about the most reliable vehicles on the road, so if all we are talking about is dealing with some corrosion issues, it would make much more sense (to me) to have the work done and carry on using it till you go for an EV.
Indeed - unless there some really serious corrosion that will require several £0000 to fix, then it's far better to spend a reasonable amount on decent maintenance and the occasional bigger repair (e.g. clutch changes, new suspension parts, etc) rather than shell out well over £10k for a replacement car that the OP doesn't really know the entire history of (especially how it was driven). If looked after and the car driven sympathetically, any such replacments should last a long time.
This is particularly true at the moment when second hand car prices are well in excess (reports appear to indicate about a third over the trend) of what they would normally be due to the Pandemic-related logisitical / supply problems pushing many new car buyers onto the second hand market.
My 16yo Mazda3 has had the occasional suspension part, brake replacments etc and keeps passing its MOT each year. The latest one flagged up that one of the exhaust pipe hangers had broken (it was still ok overall) and so I had it welded back on again - for £30.
A new exhaust + hangers would've cost me well over £500. The weld may only last a few years, but at £30 a pop...
I agree that with some appropriate TLC, most cars can be kept on the road and going well without breaking the bank. Only worth changing when huge bills are on the horizon and parts are very difficult to come by.
In the OP's case, the mechanical bits of a Lexus are normally very reliable and long-lasting (especially the engine [particullarly the petrols/hyrbids]), thus most suspension, brakes and body-related issues could be taken care of be (cheaper) decent pattern parts and/or decent local indie repair outfits (e.g welding - my Mazda dealer recommended one as they don't do such work themselves).
Rather like boilers - I kept mine going until getting parts was difficult / expensive, but already had a plan in place for which boiler(s) to choose from for its replacement and the installation I wanted more generally.
To this end, I'd recommend that the OP still do the exercise to find out what type, make and models of replacment would suit their needs and budget (inclduing running costs), review it every year or so and thus have it ready in case a really big bill does come along.
|