Hi Debby, Gary, everyone.
I have the same issue today. Previously no problem with central locking. But today the rear offside (R/O) door will not open with the rest of the doors. Not on the key fob, not on the physical key and not the central locking button on the dash. Same time the boot stopped opening apart from on a long hold on the key fob boot button.
The R/O door tries to work. I have read there are two relays in each door, lock & unlock and they both make a noise, but unlock doesn't happen, I have read on other blogs to use the physical level inside at the same time as the fob to give it more uumph and the actuator might trigger. So far after maybe 100 tries nothing changes. I have tried gently-ish banging the door with my hand where the lock is at the same time to try and jiggle it. Didn't help. I have taken the lever surround off and tried to pull on the wire (you get to see 1-2 mm) with another piece of wire I looped around it, little bit fiddly, but didn't help. Don't want to go too far in case of causing other problems. So can't open the door to get inside it to take a better look.
Anyone been here and found a fix? How is the boot linked to the R/O door must be a clue. Unlikely for 2 problems to start at the same time and not be related?
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Replacing the lock on the offending door may solve the problem - it did on my Pug 207SW. Ask your friendly local bodyshop, he may find a used one on E-bay, it'll be a lot cheaper than new.
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Thanks. I would be happy to do that, but how to get the door open in the first place is the initial problem. Do you know how they did that please?
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If the door can’t be opened from inside or outside, then it’s probably failed in the lock position. The door card will need to be removed ( tricky with the door shut) then the lock/ latch unit will need to be destroyed to get the door open. I believe new lock units are not cheap , around £300 , from memory.
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I believe new lock units are not cheap , around £300 , from memory.
A new lock for my Pug would have cost about that, but a used one only about £30 - but of course without warranty. All OK so far. The problem with my door was that it would not latch, not that it would not open. But Simon in my local bodyshop knows a few tricks I think.
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To fix this I had to destroy the outer door card with a multitool in order to remove it. Then I could get to the inner panel which also has to be removed. I searched you tube and found this youtu.be/SeXrMsyM4oU incredibly useful, not the same and of course as my door was locked shut but successfully removed the inner panel using all the clues from that video. Then I had to destroy the lock bit by bit until I could get to release the lock from inside the door skin. Then the lock can be removed, what was left of it. The problem with mine was that some of the internal plastic mechanism had failed, nothing to do with cables, motors (which both worked fine on the bench afterwards). See the photo showing how far the lock had to be destroyed. I used an endoscope connected to my phone to see inside the door. I also stripped down the opposite door, which was working, as far as I needed to make sure I didn't damage anything else. I sourced a second hand door lock and outer card from ebay for <£90. All went back perfectly, Not difficult once you get your head around being that destructive. I kept everything not being sure what the second hand parts might be missing (they were both 100% as it happened). Hyundai garage weren't very keen to take it on and wouldn't give a quote. Spoke to someone else who paid >£1000 in labour. Once this door lock was fixed the boot worked again. Not sure how they are connected but they definitely appear to be. I have included photos of what was left of the lock, an arrow showing where I had to use a screwdriver to open it from the inside, the destroyed door skin and the new skin (to help identify where to and where not to attack it. Good Luck.
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Hello mate, I have exactly the same problem. Plan to do what you've done, doesn't sound much fun. I can't see the photo's that you mention ? Am I missing something? Cheers Chris
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Hi AlanxB
I’ve got exactly the same problem with my partners i30, door in the locked position and sounds like your pictures would be very helpful.
Have you attached them here at all please.
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Hi, I realise that this is a couple of years on, but my i30 has exactly this door lock issue, only it's the front passenger side. Secondhand parts are cheap enough but my local garage won't fit these - they don't want to be liable if they go wrong. Therefore I'm considering giving it a go myself but would find the photos that AlanxB mentions really helpful - is there any chance of getting hold of these please?
For interest, a lock and door card from a breaker is £120 delivered. The lock alone from Hyundai is £272 and the door card £1199. That's not a typo. Of course there's always a risk that a secondhand part will fail sooner than you'd like.
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Hi, I realise that this is a couple of years on, but my i30 has exactly this door lock issue, only it's the front passenger side. Secondhand parts are cheap enough but my local garage won't fit these - they don't want to be liable if they go wrong. Therefore I'm considering giving it a go myself but would find the photos that AlanxB mentions really helpful - is there any chance of getting hold of these please?
For interest, a lock and door card from a breaker is £120 delivered. The lock alone from Hyundai is £272 and the door card £1199. That's not a typo. Of course there's always a risk that a secondhand part will fail sooner than you'd like.
By 'local garage', do you mean main Hyundai dealership or just the independent you use? The latter (a good quality one) should be more amenable in such circumstances (for 'older' cars well out of warranty, though you obviously want to avoid 'cowboy' outfits, and sometimes they aren't as easy to spot as some would have you believe.
I understand fully as I had a similar (expense) situation with my (then) 18yo Mazda3, where a lambda sensor (fitted cost at the dealer around £250 - £275, local indie about £180 - £200 if I recall [both using the same Denso sensor]) on the exhaust had failed, but because it we seized on, the whole exhaust manifold had to be replaced.
Total cost (the indie wasn't capable of this bigger job) at the main dealership - £1750. had to be done as the faulty sensor could've caused a emissions fail on the MOT. More than my car was worth at the time, but still cheaper than buying a replacement car that otherwise was reliable.
Older cars can be great until something goes wrong, especially if parts are hard to come by, or no common 'pattern' parts are available that can reasonably reduce the cost of the repair.
I agree that using second hand parts can be a risk, particularly if they are complex and/or moving ones, whether mechanically or electrically actuated. Not so bad for trim or bodywork whether you can reasonably tell its condition.
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I empathise with your exhaust issue - costly, but still cheaper than a new car. Thankfully cars are generally very reliable and I haven't had any really expensive repairs in years. But the parts prices from the dealer were a shock - even the guy I spoke to choked a bit when he gave the price for the door card.
My 'local garage' is an independent that I've used for over 20 years. I used to be able to give them my own parts to fit, but they no longer allow this. I'd have thought that fitting 'green' recycled items would be a 'good thing' in some ways, even if I had to sign a disclaimer should they by faulty. I'll ask the proprietor next time I see him.
Anyway, I've ordered the lock and door card for £120 (I used BreakerLink) and will follow the guidance from AlanxB. What's the worst that could happen...
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One of the problems with 'modern' cars is how much complex, inaccessible stuff goes into most of the parts, meaning a repair outfit cannot reasonably guarantee the fitted second-hand part will work - whether at all or reliably over a reasonable period.
You could end up having to have it fixed or replaced again (possibly with the expensive OEM part), maybe having to fix other problems the faulty part has caused, due to a hidden fault.
Things were easier when they were simple parts, manually actuated (like door mirrors) or they had more basic mechanical or electrical sub-components that could be quickly / easily tested and/or replaced as necessary.
Unfortunately, those days have been gone for two, maybe three decades for the most part. You never know, you might be lucky if you used another (reputable) outfit, but you can't always guarantee they will be good (reviews can obviously be faked, goo or bad), and the issue with the parts themselves still holds.
I'd probably only use (breaker's yard) second hand stuff for bodywork, seats, interior trim, etc where the you can more easily determine if it's in good condition.
Sometimes some car 'owners' clubs can help, though outside of performance makes and models, many are falling by the wayside these days, often because of the cost and time spent in keeping them (websites included - not 'free' as they might've been 10-20 years ago, not helped by users shunning increasing use of ads via blocking software) going, plus many people don't want to work on their own cars any more, often due to the issues I've mentioned (you can easily get into a right pickle if you're not a good home mechanic.
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One of the problems with 'modern' cars is how much complex, inaccessible stuff goes into most of the parts, meaning a repair outfit cannot reasonably guarantee the fitted second-hand part will work - whether at all or reliably over a reasonable period.
Two years on (see my post above) my E-bay door lock is still OK.
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