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BMW 1 Series - Not the best with cars - water pump - amphy
Hello. I have a 58 plate one series, it’s coming upto 60k miles. I have had this car for a about 2 years and done 40k miles. I service it 6 months before the MOT and have had no problems at all. Not had to even change the tyres yet. I read online that I don’t have a timing chain so that doesn’t need doing, but is it worth getting the water pump done or wait for some indication it is failing.

Also I had no advisories on the last MOT, but obviously with the distance I travelled is it worth just get the brakes checked? I can’t find how thin they should be, before they are no good.

I have a major service booked next week with Halfords, but only because I got a big discount. I have been advised to get any work done at a regular garage because it will be more expensive at somewhere like Halfords or a specialist.

Again, my knowledge isn’t great and I appreciate any advice you can give me.

BMW 1 Series - Not the best with cars - water pump - thunderbird

I read online that I don’t have a timing chain so that doesn’t need doing,

Pretty sure BMW's of this age do have a chain (not a belt) but if its quiet it does not need doing. If it did it would possibly cost about as much as the cars worth. Think its an engine strip job since its at the rear.

I have a major service booked next week with Halfords, but only because I got a big discount.

Its discounted because they plan to sell you loads of work and parts it does not need, either don't go or cancel. Instead book the same work at a local BMW specialist (plenty around, there are 2 in our area) who will do a far better job. If its a "full" service they should be checking the brakes as part of it.

BMW 1 Series - Not the best with cars - water pump - elekie&a/c doctor
All BMW models from the early 90s have a chain drive camshaft system . On the 1,series , chain can be at the front of the engine or at the back, depending on what engine. Water pump is belt driven and only replaced if leaking or noisy . It’s not a service item .
BMW 1 Series - Not the best with cars - water pump - amphy
Ah yes sorry, i DO have a timing chain -typo. Okay thanks.
BMW 1 Series - Not the best with cars - water pump - amphy
Okay great. Sorry I do have a timing chain and that was a typo haha. All right I’ll give them a call and investigate a specialist
BMW 1 Series - Not the best with cars - water pump - Andrew-T
Hello. I have a 58 plate one series, it’s coming upto 60k miles. I have had this car for a about 2 years and done 40k miles.

Are these figures correct ? You have a 13-year-old car with 60K on the clock, and have done 40K in two years. A Beemer which covered 20K in 11 years from new - really ? Can't be many like that.

BMW 1 Series - Not the best with cars - water pump - amphy
Yes, it’s just done 59k this week. Paid 4K for it in lockdown one and it’s been mint. That’s why I wanted the advice really as have had no issues with it. Just trying to maintain it as best I can with the limited information I have about cars really.

Actually there was one issue, someone stole my catalytic converter last year so had to get a get something fitted in place of it. But obviously that’s not an issue with the car breaking down or having snags.
BMW 1 Series - Not the best with cars - water pump - elekie&a/c doctor
And no tyres in 40k miles ? Must be on slicks
BMW 1 Series - Not the best with cars - water pump - amphy
And no tyres in 40k miles ? Must be on slicks

I try to remember to check my tyres once a month and keep the air pressure to what it says in the door. I think they had new tyres fitted before I bought the car. They are Michelin energy saver 216/55r16 tyres. Feels like 3/4 mm from the tread to the indication bit.
BMW 1 Series - Not the best with cars - water pump - John F

Sounds as though you have a gem of a car. If it works, don't mend it. The MoT test provides you with all the service checks you need beyond what the hand book tells you to do. No point in paying twice. Just change the oil and filter if it hasn't been done in the last 10,000 miles. If you are feeling enthusiastic, take out the air filter and brush it clean with a vacuum brush of the outside dirty bit. Use a small stiff paint brush for the creases.

Brakes will fail (the MoT, not to work!) when the pad material is less than 1.5mm thick.

Edited by John F on 11/12/2021 at 11:45

BMW 1 Series - Not the best with cars - water pump - thunderbird

Actually there was one issue, someone stole my catalytic converter last year so had to get a get something fitted in place of it.

If you mean something other than a working catalytic converter was fitted then the car is illegal to use on the road. It should fail any MOT if the garage is doing their job (if not they should be heavily fined).

And since the car is now modified and not roadworthy, if you had an accident its possible your insurers would refuse to pay out for any damage to your car.

And no tyres in 40k miles ? Must be on slicks

I got over 40,000 miles out of a set of Michelins back in the late 70's on a Mk2 Escort. The car had little power but the tyres had little grip form new and were lethal when worn.

Dad got almost 60,000 out of set of Michelins on a Golf, Car had a bit more power but no grip.

Edited by thunderbird on 11/12/2021 at 12:33

BMW 1 Series - Not the best with cars - water pump - amphy

Actually there was one issue, someone stole my catalytic converter last year so had to get a get something fitted in place of it.

If you mean something other than a working catalytic converter was fitted then the car is illegal to use on the road. It should fail any MOT if the garage is doing their job (if not they should be heavily fined).

And since the car is now modified and not roadworthy, if you had an accident its possible your insurers would refuse to pay out for any damage to your car.

And no tyres in 40k miles ? Must be on slicks

I got over 40,000 miles out of a set of Michelins back in the late 70's on a Mk2 Escort. The car had little power but the tyres had little grip form new and were lethal when worn.

Dad got almost 60,000 out of set of Michelins on a Golf, Car had a bit more power but no grip.

Okay great. Thanks for advice I didn’t realise all that. I’ll get it sorted, not by Halfords though ha.
BMW 1 Series - Not the best with cars - water pump - John F

Actually there was one issue, someone stole my catalytic converter last year so had to get something fitted in place of it.

And since the car is now modified and not roadworthy, if you had an accident its possible your insurers would refuse to pay out .....

Okay great. Thanks for advice I didn’t realise all that. I’ll get it sorted, not by Halfords though ha.

What's to sort? A replacement catalytic converter is not a modification just because it might not be from the original manufacturer. As long as whatever is there ensures an emissions test pass there is nothing to worry about. This poster, by asserting your car is not roadworthy, is clearly on the side of anxiety-inducing garages looking for work.

BMW 1 Series - Not the best with cars - water pump - thunderbird

What's to sort? A replacement catalytic converter is not a modification just because it might not be from the original manufacturer. As long as whatever is there ensures an emissions test pass there is nothing to worry about. This poster, by asserting your car is not roadworthy, is clearly on the side of anxiety-inducing garages looking for work.

I have presumed (perhaps incorrectly) that the words used by the OP "someone stole my catalytic converter last year so had to get something fitted in place of it" suggests that the OP had a simple pipe fitted to replace the CAT instead of a replacement CAT (used or aftermarket). If he had a CAT fitted its fine but his words do not suggest that.

Perhaps the OP will enlighten us.

BMW 1 Series - Not the best with cars - water pump - amphy

Sounds as though you have a gem of a car. If it works, don't mend it. The MoT test provides you with all the service checks you need beyond what the hand book tells you to do. No point in paying twice. Just change the oil and filter if it hasn't been done in the last 10,000 miles. If you are feeling enthusiastic, take out the air filter and brush it clean with a vacuum brush of the outside dirty bit. Use a small stiff paint brush for the creases.

Brakes will fail (the MoT, not to work!) when the pad material is less than 1.5mm thick.

Thanks so much for this
BMW 1 Series - Not the best with cars - water pump - thunderbird

Sounds as though you have a gem of a car. If it works, don't mend it. The MoT test provides you with all the service checks you need beyond what the hand book tells you to do. No point in paying twice. Just change the oil and filter if it hasn't been done in the last 10,000 miles. If you are feeling enthusiastic, take out the air filter and brush it clean with a vacuum brush of the outside dirty bit. Use a small stiff paint brush for the creases.

Brakes will fail (the MoT, not to work!) when the pad material is less than 1.5mm thick.

Thanks so much for this

Brakes require more maintenance than an OK from the MOT that they have 1.5mm. Since you are doing 20,000 miles a year that 1.5mm will not last long (especially on the front) and if you don't check them yourself the grinding noise of metal on metal and no stopping power will eventually appear. Pads should be periodically removed from the calipers and brake dust cleaned away. Some Copperslip (or similar) should be used on all metal to metal contact areas to ensure no seizing and smooth operation. This should also be done when fitting new pads.

BMW 1 Series - Not the best with cars - water pump - edlithgow

Sounds as though you have a gem of a car. If it works, don't mend it. The MoT test provides you with all the service checks you need beyond what the hand book tells you to do. No point in paying twice. Just change the oil and filter if it hasn't been done in the last 10,000 miles. If you are feeling enthusiastic, take out the air filter and brush it clean with a vacuum brush of the outside dirty bit. Use a small stiff paint brush for the creases.

Brakes will fail (the MoT, not to work!) when the pad material is less than 1.5mm thick.

Thanks so much for this

Brakes require more maintenance than an OK from the MOT that they have 1.5mm. Since you are doing 20,000 miles a year that 1.5mm will not last long (especially on the front) and if you don't check them yourself the grinding noise of metal on metal and no stopping power will eventually appear. Pads should be periodically removed from the calipers and brake dust cleaned away. Some Copperslip (or similar) should be used on all metal to metal contact areas to ensure no seizing and smooth operation. This should also be done when fitting new pads.

Realistically, from the OP's self-description, he probably isn't going to be doing that.

I dunno how easy it will be to find someone to do it for him, and know that it has been done.

Controversially, (and academically in view of the above) I'd disagree with "Some Copperslip (or similar) should be used on all metal to metal contact areas to ensure no seizing and smooth operation."

Coppaslip on the (stainless) pad sliders attracts brake dust and clogs things up.

(Plus you can't get it in Taiwan. I now have some but have little use for it)

I leave them dry but wrap PTFE tape around the pad ears.Works fine

I use PTFE tape and silicone grease on the caliper pins. Ditto

BMW 1 Series - Not the best with cars - water pump - edlithgow

Forgot to say that one reason not to use Coppaslip on brake components such as the caliper pins is that its an oil based grease, so may attack rubber components such as the boots sealing the pin ends.

Another (largely theoretical) reason is that it may cause electrochemical corrosion, in fact I've seen it suggested that this is part of its anti-seize and anti-galling action. Its worth remembering that it isn't primarily intended as a lubricant.

BMW 1 Series - Not the best with cars - water pump - thunderbird

Been using coppaslip on brake calipers since I got my first car with front discs in 1975, a Triumph Herald. Never had a single issue. I have bought new pads that have come with a sachet of coppaslip in the box to be used on reassembly.

The only other grease I have used on brakes is a white grease on the pivot points of rear drums. But that was many years ago, think the last car I had with rear drums would have been the diesel Polo I sold in 1999.

Its been many years since I have serviced brakes, leave them to the garage now.

Its possible there are newer more specialised greases available but the tin of coppaslip I have in the garage still lists the rear of the pads and metal to metal contact points as places to use coppaslip (in small amounts). The stuff I have is not runny like normal grease, its a very stiff paste. The coppaslip that came with the pads was quite runny in comparison, never used it, could easily end up where you don't want it.

BMW 1 Series - Not the best with cars - water pump - edlithgow

I seldom find the "never had an issue" line very convincing, because I never know what the criteria for detection of "an issue" are, and I usually dont know what timescale is being discussed.

I used to use Coppaslip in the UK. Never had a single issue that I could definitively put down to it, but then I drove bangers of unknown history and never managed to keep them very long.

I did quite often see rubber components on them that had turned to mush, (a multiple issue), and Coppaslip was sometimes present. I dunno if Coppaslip was the cause, but if it was I would be unlikely to be able to prove it.

I daresay though, that if I hadn't run a vehicle in Taiwan (where it is unobtainable in non-industrial quantities) I might have continued to use it without giving it much thought. Now I have, though, and I now know that.

(a) It isn't specifically necessary in any situation I'm aware of. It either isn't necessary at all, or there are better alternatives.

b) There are specific reasons NOT to use it in particular circumstances, as I mention above

The better alternatives are not necessarily newer or more specialised. I have some "red rubber grease" (bought in Japan) which is perhaps specialised but not newer.(I think its castor oil base), and some Bendix Ceramic Brake Grease (bought in Australia, you can't get anything in Taiwan), which is newer, more specialised, and also horribly expensive, but I've never got around to using either of them.

Silicone grease and PTFE work just fine on the caliper pins.

On the sliders nothing works fine and costs...er...nothing.

The PTFE tape on the pad ears might work a bit better and costs very little, and I have at least once scribbled on the sliders with a 2B pencil. Dunno what that cost. Think I found it on the ground.

Next time around I might try some dry silicone spray as well if its to hand when I do the job.

I've kept my present 35 year-old car longer than any other I've had (think its 8 years now), and on that sort of timescale long term material incompatabilities might become more of a problem, and one I can do without.

Edited by edlithgow on 13/12/2021 at 15:07

BMW 1 Series - Not the best with cars - water pump - thunderbird

I seldom find the "never had an issue" line very convincing, because I never know what the criteria for detection of "an issue" are, and I usually dont know what timescale is being discussed.

Pretty simple really. After using Coppaslip I have never had an issue with any braking components that had been in contact with it whilst I have owned the car. Had 2 Focus's for 10 years, is that long enough?

I have some "red rubber grease" (bought in Japan) which is perhaps specialised

Got some myself. Bought for fitting suspension bushes originally but used for lubricating the caliper piston seals as well after cleaning them. Back in my youth it was always brake fluid for this job but the red grease is much better. Probably could be used on the sliding pins as well but never tried it. Being veggie based I have no idea how long it would last. Its only really intended as an assembly lube which is easy to clean off as far as I am aware.

BMW 1 Series - Not the best with cars - water pump - edlithgow

Had 2 Focus's for 10 years, is that long enough?

I dont know. I've never had a car that young. It may be that newer cars use more oil resistant rubber.

Fortunately I don't need to know, since I have no need to use Coppaslip on brakes. So I don't

BMW 1 Series - Not the best with cars - water pump - edlithgow

Thanks for your comments on the Red Rubber stuff (I think usually made by Castrol in the UK, but mine is of Japanese origin).

Its the recommendation in the Dahatsu manual I have, (though I can't recall exactly where one is supposed to use it) but I share your reservations about its longevity so havn't.

Temporary use as a piston assembly lube might make sense since brake fluid is quite an aggressive solvent so might keep it liquid.

I might be testing that soon, since I suggested a Japanese colleage use my sunflower oil and aluminium anti-rust treatment on his ratty old bicycle, but unfortunately he flooded all the moving parts with "salad oil".

Sure enough, his bike is now stiffening up. Going to be quite hard to free it up short of disassembly, but brake fluid MIGHT work.