Is the bearing in the removed drum, or on the stub shaft?

If the former, then a cold chisel and hammer (it doesn't matter what damage you do to the old one). If the latter then you'll need something like a puller.

If you need to put the new bearing back in the drum, then put the drum in the oven and the bearing in the freezer - don't tell the missus!

ISTR the method to remove the drum, was to unbolt the backplate? If you're stuck, then you can always tke the parts to a local garage. I've had very good help from such sources for the price of a couple of pints.

Edited by bathtub tom on 21/08/2021 at 22:52

A quick update for those who might have to tread this path in the future or who are just interested in stuff :-) The old bearing is firmly wedged in the hub (brake drum), by what I now understand is called an "interference fit". Well it certainly interfered with my plans for DIY! The bearing can only be removed from one side (after removing a circlip), so it has to be driven out from the other side. Unfortunately, due to the internal contours fo the hub on the other side, it is not possible to apply any pressure to the outer race of the bearing. So it is only possible to push against the inner race. I cleaned everything up and applied WD 40 liberally beforehand. As a drift, I used a large 1/2" socket (extended by a 6" extension bar) and started tapping on the inner race. No joy. Tapped harder, no joy, etc. etc. Eventually the inner race on the tapped side broke (plenty of roller bearings) and the innder race on the exit side also fell out. So now I have a hub with a very snug outer race shell, and a 1/2" socket which is permanently attached to an extension bar! Happy days :-) Plan C will be a visit to my local garage to ask for some help. This was a job I should not have started.

Before concluding this mini-saga, many thanks for your encouragement and advice :-)

The Haynes manual says"Press or drive out the bearing using a length of metal tube of diameter slightly less than the bearing outer race." Well the outer race is invisible from the driving side, so you have to press on the inner race. I guess the pressure I applied was not distributed uniformly enough and the inner race eventually disintegrated under my hammer taps. The recommended youtube video is very good - that is the professional way to do it, but does need professional equipment.

A friend with a brainwave took the offending hub away to apply heat, but got not joy that way and brought it back.

So I went to my local garage and they kindly put the hub in a huge press with a special disc of the right diameter inserted into the narrow part of the outer race and, with much huffing and puffing and raised eyebrows, eventually drove out the outer race. They then kindly pushed the new bearing in for me using the same massive press and even fitted the new circlip. I offered to pay but was charged nothing for this - just shows how staying on good terms with a local garage as a long-term customer is worthwhile. As I left, the owner told me: the torque setting is "FT". In response to my raised eyebrow, he clarified "f**king tight". I tightened the single centre nut as far as I could until the socket started slipping off. I would feel happier with a crowned nut and a split pin, but that is progress for you. If the wheel falls off, at least it is the rear one :-)