Thank so far. You are 100% correct that I need to look at condition and history

You've already matched so far my ow thoughts that the Japanese ones are 'probably' going to be more reliable. I did have a 3 door focus once , I think it was a 1.8, and it drove brilliantly and I never had an issue..should have kept it I guess !

I dont need 5 seats as it will be a 2nd car and as for 3 doors, its purely that we both like the style of 3 door cars more than 5...just how we feel

Note that 3dr cars have larger doors than 4 and 5 door cars, which sometimes means they are more difficult to get in/out of when in a tight parking space! To get a decent car, it would be FAR better to compromise to get a 5dr car (many more about) that's in good condition with a full service history than a 3dr one that does not.

I fully understand about the styling aspect though, but when you're buying at that price point, you can't be so choosy. Best to go for condition, as long as it reasonably meets other *must have* requirements.

Most 2000s and onwards Focus size car and smaller will be able to achieve 35mpg - my 2005-built Mazda3 1.6 petrol has an official mpg of around 37-38 (average driving pattern), whereas I actually achieve 40-41 over the 15 years I've owned it.

What I'd also do is avoid cars with low profile (50 profile and under) tyres, and preferably stick to cars that are shod on common tyre size combos, e.g. 195/65 R15, 205/55 R16 and some at the 14in rim size.

Replacement tyres of either unusual size combinations or that are shod on large (for the car) wheels are much more expensive, ride much more firmly (low profile ones) are far more susceptible to damage and high wear and thus cost a lot more to replace (and there's less choice, often using old tech that is worse for mpg), plus the wheels themselves are too. The suspension also takes more of a hit with low profile tyres, meaning that will wear more quickly (more expense).

e.g. fitted cost for a common size of summer tyre (from a decent make) for a Fiesta or Focus is about £45 - £65, but for low profile or uncommon size combos add £25 - £50 (the larger the internal diameter/lower profile, the higher the disparity) and, because the low profile ones don't last as long (including damage from kerbing, potholes, etc) , you end up paying much more over the ownership of the car. In your case, that could amount to more than annual servicing.

I'd personally go for a manual petrol car (the engine size is irrelevant - performance, mpg and above all, reliability is key) with as little gadgets as possible to reduce the cost/get a newer example and to make sure you have less stuff to go wrong as it ages. If you can only afford £1500, then you won't be able to afford big bills if some gadget goes wrong.

When you go for a test drive, make sure it's:

a) of a reasonable length on a variety of different road types you'll be using later on, including poorly surfaced roads, which will show up damaged suspension, a general overly firm ride or poor seat comfort/driving position.

b) You get the driver's seat position and steering wheel as best as you can, as not doing so can give a false impression, similarly to going on a short test drive or one at low speeds on straight, smooth roads.

c) If you're not in the know about the mechanics of cars, then take someone along who is (the breakdown organisations provide this service [they charge] if you can't find someone to do it as a favour), given you'll likely be buying privately or from a small-time dealer.

d) If the car looks messy and/or badly worn inside/badly treated (expect some little issues for older cars) or the seller won't meet at their home or (dealer) place of business, then walk away.

Best of luck.