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My sisters car requires a full service - mileage at 60K. Halford £265, Kwik Fit £160, ATS Euromaster wanted £225 and Honda wanted £310. Local Honda dealer could not be bothered to return my call, went to book with a dealer 8 miles away in Surrey/London border that price matched at £215...shows how much profit margin is built in. My question should we get fuel filter and coolant properly drained which are all extras. Honda want £90 for coolant and between £90 to £160 for fuel filter depending on external or internal. Should I get coolant changed? its been six years....
The Honda and Halford price includes brake fluid change..
Thanks for replies
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Wouldn’t bother with the coolant change , it’s good for 10 years . Fuel filter , yes if it’s replaceable, some have a sealed for life filter in the tank . I would get the brake fluid renewed , especially if there is no known history of it being done before .
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I used to find the Honda dealer quite reasonable for the basic Civic service, especially as my deal included free MoT and breakdown. I’d add extras as required, such as the brake fluid rather than pay for a “major” service.
It may be too late this time but the air and pollen filters were crazily priced. Honda charge about £100 fitted against just over £40 from Cox for OEM parts and then DIY. Once you have done them once it’s a 5 minute job next time and I assume the Jazz is similarly easy.
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Mechanically simple and very robust, these wee cars don’t require any specialist knowledge to maintain. Ask around for recommendations and pick a good local independent to maintain it. A major service should cost £180-£200 and a basic just over £100. No need to swap out the coolant, they’ll test it to see if it’s ok. These don’t require much to remain reliable, just fresh oil every year and they’ll run and run. I’ve seen examples that haven’t had the bonnet lifted in years still running sweetly. They’ll take neglect even if it’s not advisable.
Edited by SLO76 on 27/11/2020 at 21:06
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Mechanically simple and very robust, these wee cars don’t require any specialist knowledge to maintain. Ask around for recommendations and pick a good local independent to maintain it. A major service should cost £180-£200 and a basic just over £100. No need to swap out the coolant, they’ll test it to see if it’s ok. These don’t require much to remain reliable, just fresh oil every year and they’ll run and run. I’ve seen examples that haven’t had the bonnet lifted in years still running sweetly. They’ll take neglect even if it’s not advisable.
I do my own servicing 2012 Jazz 1.4,
Easy peasy.
Well laid out.
Simple
I buy OE Honda oil filters ebay under £10 (Honda £13-£16) and Blueprint air and cabin filters - £30 total vs Honda "how much?"
Will do coolant change 2022.
Costs DIY: Engine oil + filter as spec under £40
Air/pollen filters £30
Brake fluid £12
err that's it
Edited by madf on 28/11/2020 at 08:20
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Should I get coolant changed? its been six years....
No. Once the suspended oxygen in the water has been used up there can be no further corrosion. The only time I changed some of the coolant in my 40yr old TR7 was in 1986, when I was younger, more ignorant and thought it might be a good idea, and in 2002 when I had to renew the water pump. The coolant in my son's 20yr old Ford Focus is original,as are the air and pollen filters. I wouldn't bother with brake fluid change either, unless you are towing a caravan across the Alps. Nor the air filters - just clean them with a stiff paint brush. Assuming it has done 10,000 miles since the last oil change, all it needs is fresh oil and a new oil filter. The MoT test will take care of the other 'service' safety checks - no point in paying twice.
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Should I get coolant changed? its been six years....
No. Once the suspended oxygen in the water has been used up there can be no further corrosion. The only time I changed some of the coolant in my 40yr old TR7 was in 1986, when I was younger, more ignorant and thought it might be a good idea, and in 2002 when I had to renew the water pump. The coolant in my son's 20yr old Ford Focus is original,as are the air and pollen filters. I wouldn't bother with brake fluid change either, unless you are towing a caravan across the Alps. Nor the air filters - just clean them with a stiff paint brush. Assuming it has done 10,000 miles since the last oil change, all it needs is fresh oil and a new oil filter. The MoT test will take care of the other 'service' safety checks - no point in paying twice.
Modern engines with mixed materials, eg cast-iron block and aluminium head, need corrosion inhibitors despite the lack of oxygen - that's why coolant has a finite life.
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Modern engines with mixed materials, eg cast-iron block and aluminium head, need corrosion inhibitors despite the lack of oxygen - that's why coolant has a finite life.
As much as I deplore his threads, how can corrosion occur with an absence of oxygen?
I can test the effectiveness of anti-freeze, by syphoning some off into a pot and dropping it in the freezer. Any idea how I can test the effectiveness of anti- corrosion?
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Modern engines with mixed materials, eg cast-iron block and aluminium head, need corrosion inhibitors despite the lack of oxygen - that's why coolant has a finite life.
As much as I deplore his threads, how can corrosion occur with an absence of oxygen?
I can test the effectiveness of anti-freeze, by syphoning some off into a pot and dropping it in the freezer. Any idea how I can test the effectiveness of anti- corrosion?
Rust, which needs oxygen, isn't the only form of corrosion - iron/steel and aluminium will corrode because of the electrolytic reaction.
AFAIK the anti-corrosion can't be tested DIY - that's why coolant has a finite life.
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As much as I deplore his threads, how can corrosion occur with an absence of oxygen?
It can't.
Any idea how I can test the effectiveness of anti- corrosion?
You can't. The old silicon inhibitors got washed away, but the modern organic carboxylate ones form a protective layer (in theory) - so the initial quantity should be enough for the life of the car, especially ones with all aluminium engines which are not as prone to galvanic corrosion.
Rust, which needs oxygen, isn't the only form of corrosion - iron/steel and aluminium will corrode because of the electrolytic reaction.
Galvanic corrosion still needs oxygen. Once the electrolyte's suspended oxygen is used up, aluminium hydroxide can no longer be produced. That's why I don't change the (coolant) electrolyte. My TR7 has an iron block and aluminium head. Forty years on and 71,000 miles, no cylinder head gasket problems and a still continent cooling system which is sealed up to a pressure of 15psi. I'm glad I didn't follow the thoughtless Haynes manual advice to change it every two years, and I am certainly not going to change the 20yr old pink coolant in our Focus, or the 15yr old coolant in my Audi.
Edited by John F on 29/11/2020 at 10:18
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Modern engines with mixed materials, eg cast-iron block and aluminium head, need corrosion inhibitors despite the lack of oxygen - that's why coolant has a finite life.
As much as I deplore his threads, how can corrosion occur with an absence of oxygen?
I can test the effectiveness of anti-freeze, by syphoning some off into a pot and dropping it in the freezer. Any idea how I can test the effectiveness of anti- corrosion?
Well there is oxygen in the air when you pour beake fluid into the brake master cylinder.
And oxygen in the air gap when you fill it to the Max level.
And when the brakes pads/shoes wear there is even more oxygen in the air gap..
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Sorry but I don't agree in the slightest, you can't "clean" a paper element filter by giving it a brush, as for not changing brake fluid well that's just dangerous advice in my opinion.
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Agreed, Paul. Unless you have the skills to do your own servicing, as Madf and John have, it's best to get an opinion from someone who knows your particular make and model of car. An independent specialist is less likely to advise 'change everything' in order to fleece you.
The expert advice on here is that coolant should last 10 years. But don't take any chances with brake fluid - or indeed anything to do with brakes.
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