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ford galaxy 2.8 v6 - Alternator - dipsomaniac

just put car back together after replacing head gasket and heater matrix. lots of smoke and tapping when i first fired it up but now settled down. also fitted a new battery and secondhand alternator but don't think it is charging as when i attached a volt meter it is reading 12.15v when engine is not running but 11.95v when engine is running. also car is ticking over at 1000rpm and climate control is not blowing when i turn up blowers (don't know if linked). if alternator is at fault is it just likely to be the regulator. any help appreciated.

ford galaxy 2.8 v6 - Alternator - sandy56

If you measure the voltage at the battery with the engine running it should read 14v approx. Look for the obvious faults but something not right with alternator. A good battery should read more than 12.1v if everything off. Battery is either faulty or not charging. Can you charge the battery separately and then check if it holds the charge? Then check the charging voltage, on the car. DId you get any sort of guarantee with the 2nd hand alternator?

Modern cars dont work well with a poor battery or charging problems.

You could have an airlock in the coolant system. Take the radiator cap off and let the car idle for a while- 30 mins, then check your heating, does the engine warm up?

Check youtube for some helpful videos on car batteries etc.

ford galaxy 2.8 v6 - Alternator - dipsomaniac

Thank you. Just bought the new battery today from eurocarparts so odds on its good. Bought the alternator off eBay a couple of months ago with no guarantee so that's favourite to be faulty. Looks like I am going to have to take it off and get it tested.

Am getting heating to the back but front blowers not working. Not sure if they are disabled because alternator is not working.

ford galaxy 2.8 v6 - Alternator - elekie&a/c doctor
Mk 1 Galaxy models are few and far between these days , especially the VW V6 models . I would check For battery voltage At the 13mm Nut on the alternator before condemning the unit. This cable links either to the starter motor or onto the battery plus connector . I think the fans should work as long as the engine is running. You may want to check the connectors behind the glove box. If the dash has been out , then something might have been dislodged.
ford galaxy 2.8 v6 - Alternator - dipsomaniac

Thank you. The battery light on the dash also stays on when engine is running so barring a bad connection to the alternator it could be a bad regulator?

ford galaxy 2.8 v6 - Alternator - elekie&a/c doctor
Alternators are made up of various components. A bad “anything “ could cause a no charge situation .
ford galaxy 2.8 v6 - Alternator - brum

2 common problems on mk1/mk2 Galaxy/Sharan/Alhambra you can check that could be the cause of no charging.

First there are one or more small gauge wires that connect directly to main positive battery terminal in addition to the main cable. Check these have been reconnected or not broken off when moving the battery.

Then check the main fuse box in the engine bay near the battery, fitted with big fuselinks. The heavy cable from the alternator goes to this fusebox and a very common problem is the end of the alternator cable is poorly crimped, it overheats and often melts the fusebox internals, also stops charging. New fusebox and cable repair is usually required.

Hope this helps.

ford galaxy 2.8 v6 - Alternator - dipsomaniac

thank you. wires/cables look good to the battery. can't find a mains fuse box in engine bay. i believe the black box attached to inside of n/s wing is the autobox controller.

am getting 12.01v off the brand new battery terminals with engine off and 11.65v with engine running. i am getting a similar voltage off the alternator 13mm bolt when the engine is running so assuming all connections from the alternator are good??

a new bosch alternator is £800 ish so that is not a option and secondhand ones rarely come up on ebay.

long story but i sent the original alternator off to be repaired last year and paid £90. the chap said it was the regulator but then didn't return the alternator. a couple of months went by until i had to threaten him with trading standards and the police before he returned a alternator without the casing and regulator. i then bought a cheap (£115) chinese copy from ebay but that kept chewing up belts and finally packed up 8 months later. when i stripped it down the interior parts looked nothing like the bosch so i won't be buying cheap again. manage to find a secondhand one on ebay so made what i thought was a good alternator out of the three (only used bolts from the cheap one).

now i am stuck. the regulators for the bosch are £75. do i chance a new regulator or buy a lucas alternator for £251 from eurocarparts or is there a better planC?

Edited by dipsomaniac on 30/09/2020 at 09:28

ford galaxy 2.8 v6 - Alternator - elekie&a/c doctor
Is there a local starter/alternator reman outfit locally that can test repair your unit ? May be worth a punt calling a Ford dealer. They may have a unit sitting on the shelf , collecting dust . What about looking for s/hand unit from a Golf vr6 . Same engine. Plenty on flea bay from around £110 .

Edited by elekie&a/c doctor on 30/09/2020 at 09:48

ford galaxy 2.8 v6 - Alternator - edlithgow

I just bust my alternator taking it apart, so what do I know, BUT here are some notes I took

You can allegedly test diode operation by measuring continuity/resistance between B post and casing. Should be infinite in one direction, about 500 ohms in the other.

ON CAR, using AC low range on your meter between B post on the alternator and a good engine ground Any AC ripple voltage above .5 indicates bad diodes.

Full field Test:

https://www.freeasestudyguides.com/alternator-full-field-test.html

Says there are two types A type, which is tested by grounding the field terminal, and B type, which is tested by supplying bat + to field terminal. I dunno which type I’ve got OR the ID of the field terminal, so not much use to me, but you may be able to find these things out for your kit

If you take it apart, resistance of the Armature (rotor) winding, between brush contacts should be in the (2-4 Ohm range)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=at_R7sENE0s (Kiwi lecturer) says 2-6 ohm range

Stator test – Resistance of each of three circuits (between common 6-wire terminal, which I don’t seem to have, and 2-wire teminals should be low, 0-0.2 ohms, also check no shorts of these coils to case. (should be open circuit)

Rectifier Test : Need diode setting, not just Ohms

Meter Common to B post, + to stator coil terminals (dunno if it’ll work connected. Shown with diode pack separate,. 0.5 to 0.7 volts. Diodes should be same.

2. Reverse connection should give Open Circuit

3. Meter common to ground, + to coil terminals, should all be OC

4. Reverse should be 0.5 to 0.7 volts.

https://itstillruns.com/test-alternator-rotor-7633884.html

slip ring to shaft resistance should be infinite

Apparently there is no way to bench test the voltage regulator without specialist kit, so not a DIY job

ford galaxy 2.8 v6 - Alternator - edlithgow

IF I understand you correctly, not counting the Chinoiserie, you've got two of everything apart from the regulator and case,.

I'd try re-threatening the shifty sparky to get the case and the allegedly dodgy regulator back

I'd check everything else apart from the regulator (which I believe can't be bench tested on a DIY basis) mixing and matching if necessary until I got a set where all components check out apart from the regulator.

If the alternator still doesn't work then I'd try it with the Chinese regulator, assuming this fits. Then if it still doesn't work, and I couldn't get the regulator commercially tested, I'd buy one.

This assumes its possible to re-assemble it. which isn't really true for mine, which looks to have been built as a disposable unitary item.

Its probably Chinese too.

ford galaxy 2.8 v6 - Alternator - dipsomaniac

Very helpful replies, thank you. Have found a alternator repair shop near me so going to take the 2 alternators to them and see if they can make a good one as I can't test the regulator.

ford galaxy 2.8 v6 - Alternator - dipsomaniac

Left it to the experts. They made a good alternator from the 2 genuine Bosch and charged £35 if I let them keep what was left over

ford galaxy 2.8 v6 - Alternator - edlithgow

Seems reasonable

ford galaxy 2.8 v6 - Alternator - dipsomaniac

update: have 14.45v at battery now with engine running so alternator good. still no blowers so i must have not connected something back up? with hind sight i didn't have to disconnect any of the heater box wiring to gain access to the matrix.