I just bust my alternator taking it apart, so what do I know, BUT here are some notes I took
You can allegedly test diode operation by measuring continuity/resistance between B post and casing. Should be infinite in one direction, about 500 ohms in the other.
ON CAR, using AC low range on your meter between B post on the alternator and a good engine ground Any AC ripple voltage above .5 indicates bad diodes.
Full field Test:
https://www.freeasestudyguides.com/alternator-full-field-test.html
Says there are two types A type, which is tested by grounding the field terminal, and B type, which is tested by supplying bat + to field terminal. I dunno which type I’ve got OR the ID of the field terminal, so not much use to me, but you may be able to find these things out for your kit
If you take it apart, resistance of the Armature (rotor) winding, between brush contacts should be in the (2-4 Ohm range)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=at_R7sENE0s (Kiwi lecturer) says 2-6 ohm range
Stator test – Resistance of each of three circuits (between common 6-wire terminal, which I don’t seem to have, and 2-wire teminals should be low, 0-0.2 ohms, also check no shorts of these coils to case. (should be open circuit)
Rectifier Test : Need diode setting, not just Ohms
Meter Common to B post, + to stator coil terminals (dunno if it’ll work connected. Shown with diode pack separate,. 0.5 to 0.7 volts. Diodes should be same.
2. Reverse connection should give Open Circuit
3. Meter common to ground, + to coil terminals, should all be OC
4. Reverse should be 0.5 to 0.7 volts.
https://itstillruns.com/test-alternator-rotor-7633884.html
slip ring to shaft resistance should be infinite
Apparently there is no way to bench test the voltage regulator without specialist kit, so not a DIY job
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