What is life like with your car? Let us know and win £500 in John Lewis vouchers | No thanks
Hyundai i30 - Caliper guide pin (14mm) - Idris Mahamdi
Hi

I was replacing my brake pads for the first time and my Caliper guide pin was really tight, put more torque on it and it snapped, I managed to get the remainder of it out but no idea where to get a replacement part in the U.K..

Also side note, one of my brake pads are stuck on and I can’t get it off any tips?

- Hyundai i30 (2010)
Hyundai i30 - Caliper guide pin (14mm) - edlithgow

A quick look on Ebay only turned up kits, which seem a bit expensive e.g. 100 quid a side, though you could then renew all the pins and boots on a side.

Just replacing the pin, you might get lucky taking the remains to a motor factor or garage.I've been able to source single pistons rings using this method.

When I was in the UK I'd probably have gone to a scrappy, but I understand you don't get to take bits off yourself any more, and I wouldn't think the scrappy would think it worth bothering with something like that.

Stuck pad, water pump pliers are good for things like that, or hammers, or both.

Sounds like it'll need a good clean up before re-assembly. Aluminium is good (foil and scrapers or power-drill abrasives fashioned from a can.)

I use silican grease and wrap caliper pins in PTFE thread tape. The latter is, however, my own improvisation and I havn't seen it recommended anywhere "official"

Hyundai i30 - Caliper guide pin (14mm) - RT

Hyundai dealers stock most parts and can order in the others.

Hyundai i30 - Caliper guide pin (14mm) - thunderbird

Brake cleaning solutions are available at every car parts shop as are assembly lubricants. Most garages still use good old copaslip and the last time I bought brake pads a small plastic container of copaslip was included. Use on all metal to metal contacts including the pins and the back of the pads.

Hyundai i30 - Caliper guide pin (14mm) - edlithgow

Most garages still use good old copaslip and the last time I bought brake pads a small plastic container of copaslip was included. Use on all metal to metal contacts including the pins and the back of the pads.

Dont

Copaslip is oil-base and thus not compatible with rubber parts. Most caliper pins have rubber boots, and, from the picture of the kit, these ones do too.

If most garages use it on the caliper pins, don't use most garages.

But evidently you are doing this yourself, so you probably are fairly safe from most garages.

Edited by edlithgow on 18/06/2020 at 17:59

Hyundai i30 - Caliper guide pin (14mm) - edlithgow

Brake cleaning solutions are available at every car parts shop as are assembly lubricants.

Brake cleaning solvent (unlike brake lubricants) is actually widely available in Taiwan (where I'm at) as well.

This would be more surprising if it wasn't almost completely useless.

Its a highly volatile de-greaser. Your brakes shouldn't be greasy and if they are you've probably got more problems than will be solved by a puff or two of this stuff.

Its not very effective at removing brake dust since it dries so quickly that you have to use a massive excess to shift much, and it doesnt suppress dust formation for the same reason, so is a potential health hazard on both counts .

I flush the loose dust off with a bucket of water and washing up detergent, catching it in a bowl. Then I tip it down a drain grating

Brake cleaning solvent will do absolutely nothing to remove corrosion, which is probably what is stopping your brake pads from moving freely, though it could be a mixture of congealed Copaslip and brake dust on the sliders, if its been to most garages..

Either way it'll probably have to be physically cleaned and any corrosion removed. I use water, detergent, and an old tooth brush, with some cleaning naptha if required (usually isn't) then crumpled aluminium foil on the slides to remove corrosion, which, if severe, can cause jamming.

You MIGHT have to replace the stainless steel clips that the pads actually move on, and some kits come with replacement hardware. Its more likely that they are just dirty, or displaced by corrosion behind them.

I used to use a trace of aluslip on the pad ears but the last time I did it I left them dry and wrapped them in PTFE tape instead. Don't notice any difference so far,.

Edited by edlithgow on 18/06/2020 at 18:38

Hyundai i30 - Caliper guide pin (14mm) - galileo

With respect, Ed, the company I worked for (which made various parts for the automotive industry) also manufactured several kinds of rubber ( based on natural rubber and on synthetics) some of which were definitely oil-resistant.

Copaslip used sparingly on pins is not likely to badly affect rubber brake parts, it does help prevent sticking and seizing in metal-to-metal surfaces, especially where subject to heat.

Hyundai i30 - Caliper guide pin (14mm) - edlithgow

With equal respect, I've seen a few rubber brake and steering components that had deteriorated into a sticky gooey mess. I don't have that much experience, which suggests this is not (or was not) all that rare.

I don't know what kind of rubber they were, just as I don't usually know what kind of rubber is in parts I might buy.

I also don't usually know what kind of lubricants had been used on them, but I don't see any reason to take unecessary chances when I'm doing it myself.

I daresay in most situations you could get away with it over the likely lifespan of a car.

However, my car has been here 34 years, and parts are getting scarce, so it needs all the help it can get.

https://www.thepartsalliance.com/delphi-does-not-recommend-the-use-of-copper-grease/

First thing Google found, but they are selling a brake grease, so I suppose they would say that.

"Copper Grease is mineral based and may damage any rubber component that it comes into contact with such as rubber boots, gaiters, seals and O rings, etc."

Doesn't mean it isn't true though.

https://mykin.com/rubber-chemical-resistance-chart

Fair number of "unsatisfactory" grease compatabilities on that chart.

Hyundai i30 - Caliper guide pin (14mm) - galileo

I am obliged for your interesting compatibility chart, very comprehensive. I see that among the substances tested is PETN, a popular, sensitive and violent explosive, useful to know suitable rubber containers for it, rubber was once used for nitroglycerine, I believe.

I note that Delphi state that their brake grease should also be kept well away from any rubber components; their comments on copper grease are mainly concerned that it should not be used on the back of brake pads, use on pins and sliding caliper guides is not specifically discouraged.

These are the locations where I have found it seemed to work well, that was some time back when I had older cars.

Hyundai i30 - Caliper guide pin (14mm) - edlithgow

I note that Delphi state that their brake grease should also be kept well away from any rubber components; their comments on copper grease are mainly concerned that it should not be used on the back of brake pads, use on pins and sliding caliper guides is not specifically discouraged.

The passage I quoted is specifically on rubber incompatability. Since brake pins have rubber boots, that's specific enough for the current context.

It might also deter people from, say, slathering it on brake pistons if they use it as an assembly lubricant, which would be nice.

There's also the probably less-critical. but still relevent point, that anti-seize isn't prfimarily intended or designed for use as a lubricant on moving parts. Its designed as...er...an antisieze, on (mostly threaded) components to aid disassembly. Brake pins are moving parts in continuous sliding contact.

I did have some concern with my silicon grease/PTFE pin-wrap as to what happens if the brakes get very hot, since there might be release of HF from thermal breakdown of the PTFE. Hence my caveat that this was not an "official" procedure, full-disclosure stylee

I'd pretty much decided to stop using it due to that concern, but then I came across an add for a Volvo brake lubricant with added PTFE. If its good enough for them...assuming they werent relying on the legendary crash safety.

I'd guess rubber was used for nitroglycerine because of its shock-sensitivity.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2_0OrSG5RWA

They should have used rubber trucks.

When I did my RE EOD training the instructor had a joke about special-issue rubber shovels (IIRC in the context of acoustically fuzed WW2 German aircraft bombs rather than explosive instability, though British aircraft bomb explosive can become unstable long term due to gravitational separation)

Wasn't very funny.

Edited by edlithgow on 19/06/2020 at 02:49