Have you had the driveshafts out? If so have you checked to see if they're both pushed firmly home? If one of them is not correctly engaged into the final drive then you will have no drive.

Should also add I remove the slave cylinder from the gearbox but did not open any lines etc so refitted it without bleeding

The grinding noise inky happens when I’m at the biting point on the clutch, doesn’t happen when off the clutch or on startup etc. Going to get an assistant now to try whilst I look around

From your previous post ''( 'if' I happened to put the clutch in back to front would it cause this issue?)'', i'm beginning to wonder if this might be where the problem lies, in the clutch/flywheel area, maybe if the clutch was fitted back to front the clutch driven plate is at the very edge of the spigot shaft splines at biting point...this is only a suggestion so don't go removing the gearbox to check, but similarly don't keep letting the thing grate and grind whilst diagnosing the problem...yes i know easier said than done.

What you have to establish is if there's suitable locking of the engine to the transmission all the way to the road wheels, and to make double sure that as Railroad suggested pertinently above that the drive shafts have locked fully home in the final drive.

Maybe get the front end up in the air and the car safely blocked up, then remove both wheels (so you can see what's going on), try and pull the drive shafts out of the final drive by gripping the inner CV joints, there should be no appreciable movement.

Then put it in gear and turn one wheel hub (large screwdriver levering on the wheelbolts not bare threads), the other hub should turn the opposite way due to standard differential, try this both sides, then block the opposite hub and try to turn the free one, do this both sides, now the car being in gear it shouldn't be possible without the engine also turning over...by doing this you've 'proved' the final drive and driveshafts are in order, if after 'proving' the transmission you can turn either hub by hand with the opposite hub locked then there is definately no fully engaged clutch on its splines or the flywheel somehow isn't connected to the crank....is there an inspection hole so you can see the clutch pressure plate or flywheel turning or not as the case may be, be easier to whip the starter motor out if no inspection plate available.

One or two other remote possibles, i'm not sure how the slave cyl works on these, but maybe the lever if it has one is misplaced so even with your foot off the clutch its still partially disengaged, and was there a correct size spigot bearing in the end of the crankshaft?

Hopefully when your mate turns up and you can see what's happening all will be revealed.

Edited by gordonbennet on 30/05/2020 at 17:18