I am no expert on cars but assuming you replaced it correctly without damaging it then it could be that the area on the crankshaft where it seals against has worn down. If that is the case and then you could (1) live with it and put a drip tray under or (2) use an additive that causes the seal to swell a bit (Stop Leak or something). Valvoline also sell and oil (MaxLife) for high mileage cars which claims to 'condition seals' to stop leaks.

Slight variation on the above extraction method (this on a 2-stroke motorcycle, so much better access)

Drill 4 holes equally spaced around the seal periphery, self tappers in, wire the self-tappers to the ring of a ring-spanner, and use a gear puller on the ring. Spreads the load and gives a straight pull.

You use what you have.

Need to drill and screw carefully to avoid damage.

My difficulty is with driving the seal in straight. Tends to tilt in the bore and bind.

We as a small company in the 90's experienced a series of seal failures on new engines, doing warranty work on behalf of a major manufacturer. We repeatedly replaced manufacturer's standard seals that as you say seeped oil, just enough for the customer to complain. Using all the correct special tools, which gave the correct fitting dimensions.

The only modification we could think of to improve the outcome (and our reputation) was to shorten the tension spring slightly to put a little more radial tension on the seal lip.

The spring is a bit like a piece of curtain wire in miniature, you take it out of the seal, find where the join is and unscrew the pointed end from the open end., then cut off about 6 mm from the open end and screw it back together. This was on an approx 5 inch diameter seal. Then fit the wire back into the seal and then fit the seal. It worked. Why? Nobody ever really got to the bottom of it, faulty batch of seals? Don't know, the manufacturer didn't know, but they kept paying our warranty labour to sort it out!

If you want to try this, experiment on the spring from the seal you removed first, to get the hang of it. Use a sharp pair of side cutters to cut the spring.

Edited by focussed on 27/02/2020 at 21:51

read up that high oil pressure would cause leaks

pcv pressure control valve. if pressure to high due to breather blockage oil trys to get out at weakest point

Errm - just a reminder, a positive crankcase ventilation system is not related or connected to engine lube oil pressure is it?

He's right though isn't he. If the engine has quite high miles then there could be some blowby into the crancase which would push out oil if the PCV system is not working properly. I understand that the PCV system should cause a slight vacuum in the crankcase and this help stop oil get out past seals. Correct or not?

could you please clarify to me swirl type left hand twist

thank you. bought a new seal today from main dealer £32. the part number is one digit more than the one i put in. could have been laying around a long time getting brittle. but it seemed ok to me

the one i took out wasn't obviously broken. i shall get some sealant for outer edge.

i found out how to shorten spring ,but it worries me to try and shorten its radius