but an internally collapsing hose might, just.

they act as one way valves and will make it difficult to get fluid flowing back or to calliper piston depending on how the inside is damaged!

so its not a Just, they do

Heard of this but never experienced it (before?).

Think I kept the old front hoses when I fitted replacements a few years ago. That'll be longer but might do for a test if I can put a loop in it.

I'll have a look tomorrow.

Edited by edlithgow on 22/02/2020 at 16:19

Why are you doing this? What was wrong? If brakes not working well could be an old hose expanding (not contracting) under pressure.

There has to be something wrong to flush brakes?

For me, yes.

Actually, there was. Overheating of passenger side front, , which I think is probably bearing failure

Isn't brake binding due to sticking pistons more likely to be the cause of hot discs? I seem to remember using brasso to clean the pistons and cylinder walls.

but i stripped the caliper and added supplementary piston retraction (bike inner tube) to reduce the chance of brake drag..

The mind boggles! Where did you put it? Between the piston and pad? Surely that would make the brakes feel spongy?

I didn't use to change brake fluid regularly, but then I had a brake failure due to boiling brake fluid, so now I do. Almost crashing is a consciousness raiser..

This time I'm doing the brakes to try and minimise their contribution to the heating,(and because its a while since I did them) but there was still a slight excess temperature rise on that side motored in second gear with the brakes removed, which, along with some runout, is consistent with bearing failure.

This'll likely be terminal given lack of spares and horrible captive rotor design

Rubber return spring/dust boot supplement is experimental. Havn't test driven it yet. Not sure it matters if the brakes feel spongy as long as they work, but there are other snags like marginal temperature range and the fact the Mk1 doesn't cover the whole piston. There may be a MkII (silicon or nitrile, different geometry) if we are spared.

Thanks

If I understand you correctly, you addressed a bleeding problem on an early Landrover by reducing the free volume in the slave cylinders. That makes sense, since there will be less space for air storage

Always fancied an early Landrover. Maybe when I'm back in The Yook I'll indulge my masochism with one, though living in a city centre isnt a good excuse.

However, I dont normally have a bleeding problem with this car, The syringe method works extremely well with it even with a drained-dry system.

In particular, since you can cycle the fluid in-and-out, "pints of fluid" aren't required, though of course you'll want to renew it.

One snag with the "suck" part of the cycle is that air can be pulled in via the bleeder threads. The air isn't itself a problem, since it rises into the syringe and you can easily avoid blowing it back in, but it makes it harder to tell when you've finished,

It can be reduced with PTFE thread tape, which also reduces the chance of your bleeder screw rusting solid.

Sort-of related to your procedure, IRC I once put a cable tie tight around a wheel cylinder and then applied brake pedal pressure overnight (with bungee cord and stick, I think) since I suspected it of leaking.