Sometimes it doesn't have to be aquaplaning as such, if one side of the car hits a stretch of deep water even if the tyre is still on the road the force of frictional 'braking' of the one front wheel can easily upset a vehicle, pulling you hard in that direction from which its difficult to recover.
Obviously tyre widths in keeping with the weight of the vehicle makes this less likely, racing car style tyre widths make it much more likely.
This is quite apart from the lack of water clearing side sipes in so many summer car tyre designs, you need some side grooves to shift water er sideways, with some of the current designs it would be too easy for a wedge of water to build up being pushed forward in front of the tyre eventually enough to lift it from the road, the lighter the car the wider the tread the easier it would be to happen....and yes it's as obvious as the nose on your face, a new tyre at 6mm tread isn't going to shift as much water as a new tyre of similar pattern with 8mm.
My Mazda3's OEM tyres (Bridgestone ER30) were 6.5 years old but also only down to about 4-5mm tread on the front and 5-6mm of tread on the rears when I changed them for the next set (Dunlop SP Sport Fastresponse).
I did so because, within a short space of time, the back end broke away in damp (the road wasn't flooded - just a normal amount of rain) whilst going round roundabouts at normal speeds (and had done safely before many times). On neither occasion was a braking or accelerating, just steering.
To me, this shows that older and/or worn/poorer quality tyres (the original OEMs are poorly regarded generally and get very poor reviews on the Tyre Reviews website - when Bridgestone had a 'bad period' [my old Micra has some RE720s and they were great]). Mine had plenty of tread, but were obviously getting hard (very noisy) due to their age, and, to be frank, were noisy from about 1yo. Dry handling and grip were always fine.
The replacement Dunlops were excellent and never had a problem with grip throughout their life, including in the wet. If I had the choice of a car having either traction control and cheapo ditchfinder tyres, or no TC and high quality tyres, then I'd choose the latter every time.
Cars can have every three-lettered acronymn safety device under the sun, but if that's combined with cheapo, poor quality tyres, then what's the point - the tyres are the car's only contact with the road, and if they don't work safely in the wet.
This is why I went for the Michelin Cross Climate+ tyres to replace the Dunlops - designed for low wear, to work much better than the competition when worn and excellent wet & decent grip in wintery conditions (compared to summer tyres).
It should be noted that when I changed tyres last year, I also downsized my alloys (they needed replacing as they were corroding and causing air leakage in the tyres) from 16in to 15in, which were much cheaper (almost half price), as were the tyres (about 25% cheaper), not much more in total than just replacing all four tyres plus one wheel at the old size. The new tyres are a bit skinnier too (195mm wide from 205mm), which should help with aquaplaining.
I think that the move over to low profile tyres on many more non-performance cars is what leads to more aquaplaining incidents, especially as people (like my former colleague) choose cheapo tyres because they can't afford the high cost of the premium or even mid-range makes when it comes to replacing them.
I also think that too many people drive at the speed limit even when road layout and/or conditions mean you should be well below that, thinking that their car's XXX safety devices will get them out of trouble.
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