With the wheel sizes stated, there isn't enough difference to worry about, and in this particular case the 16" size isn't cheap enough or common enough to make it a much more desirable choice, the 17" are barely any more expensive for similar makes/models of tyre, either size i would be happy with.

The 65 will be slightly softer ride, if you compared the two cars side by over the same pot holed section i have no doubt you would notice, but it wouldn't be the stark difference between a 65 and 45 aspect tyre....on our Forester the summer set are 215/55 x 17, winter set 215/60 x 16, the difference is very noticeable, the winter tyres are softer rubber and i'm almost comparing apples and pears.

Just out of interest, on Tyreleader, for Michelin Cross Climate which HJ rates highly, the 16" are £98 whilst the 17" are £115 for your Duster possibility, not that great a difference.

Edited by gordonbennet on 16/04/2019 at 13:20

Stick with what you know and as for add blue well it makes regen more efficient and reduces the likelihood of DPF problems as long as you remember to refill it.

As far as I am aware AdBlue has nothing to do with DPF's and Regens.

The DPF is fitted to collect soot particles and regens by burning them off at high temp (extra diesel is injected to get the temp up).

AdBlue is added to the diesel tank when you refuel by a metering system built into the car. It reduces NOX produced by the combustion process.

Two very different things and unconnected other than being required to make modern diesels Euro6 compliant.

Still not quite right....! The DPF is, as you say, for collecting soot. Some versions of this system (notably Peugeot / Citroen) use an additive (Eloys, a cerine based fluid) which is injected into the diesel tank. This lowers the combustion temp of the soot particles and makes DPF regen easier - other DPF installations (notably Mazda) use excessive diesel injection that can lead to significant oil dilution and engine destruction. The fluid should last 80-100k miles and is a garage job (or advanced DIY) to refill as you need a diag computer to re-set the counter. I don't know if Dacia use an additive or not.

Ad-blue is for NOX reduction, but is injected into the exhaust where it reacts over a second catalyst to turn NOX back in nitrogen and oxygen. It's a solution of 32% Urea in distilled water, and is kept in a separate tank. Consumption depends on diesel consumption, but is around 1 - 1.5 litres / 1000 miles. There's a filler either next to the diesel filler (DON'T put it in the diesel tank!!!), or somewhere in the car. Now widely available at around £1/litre - and easily refilled DIY. You will get a warning when you get to 1500 miles, which will get progressively more insistent - eventually if you get to 0 miles left, then it will refuse to re-start the engine if it is stopped until the tank is refilled. These systems have so far been pretty robust. There have been some reports from VAG about failure of heating(*) / control systems costing a pretty penny to put right.

* ad blue freezes at -11C, so tanks are fitted with heaters to ensure it remains liquid.

I'm with you regarding turbo petrols making diesels pretty pointless for most of us, but that dealer was ripping you off! My late lamented Citroen went at least 50,000 miles between Eolys refills (depends how many times you put diesel in the tank, of course, so it won't last so many miles for drivers who constantly top up the tank), and my trusty local independent garage charged about £120 all in to replenish Eolys.

The DPF lasted over 90,000 miles, too, and cost about £300 to replace IIRC, so definitely a leg-pulling dealer!

Edited by SLO76 on 15/04/2019 at 20:26

Thanks for your input. Im used to a SUV car and its practicality and really fancy a new car this time round with a full three year warranty, the first 3 years will be main dealer maintained ( at £350 upfront why wouldn’t I ?) Then local independent with myself for interim lubrication services between etc. A format I've followed for 30 plus years of motoring successfully. The Petrol engine is a very new unit so i agree a unknown, is there anyone on here that has it in their car? This is Renaults link to the new engine spec media.group.renault.com/global/en-gb/renault/media...t Thank you

As well as Dacia and Renault, the engine is also used in various Nissan's and the Mercedes A Class. But as SLO says, it hasn't been around long enough to determine reliability, regardless of who on the forum, if any, has a car with this engine. Something you really should be taking on board (as well as the potential concerns of the new emissions related equipment fitted to the otherwise well proven diesel) seeing as you want to keep the car outwith the warranty period. Because of that, and your intention to service it yourself, if it has to be a Duster, i'd go with the 1.6 and just get used to going at a slower pace.

Also, bear in mind that there are two other 'budget' SUV's around, both of which come with a 7 year warranty, the MG ZS (a forum member has one, and is happy with both the car and the service from hos dealer) and the Ssangyong Tivoli. Not to mention, some cracking deals on the Suzuki SX4 S-Cross (particularly pre-reg delivery miles 1.0 turbo petrols from under £13k). I'm not saying any of those are better than the Duster, but if i was looking at a Duster, i'd also be looking at alternatives.

Edited by badbusdriver on 15/04/2019 at 22:24

I would not worry too much about the AdBlue, it is purely an exhaust after treatment, the hardware is built into the exhaust pipe downstream of the DPF, itThe liquid itself is cheap and getting cheaper all the time.

I would not worry too much about the AdBlue, it is purely an exhaust after treatment, the hardware is built into the exhaust pipe downstream of the DPF, it only kicks in under higher loads when the EGR is unable to control the NOx. The liquid itself is cheap and getting cheaper all the time.

This is old tech that has been on the go for 20 years and relatively tried and tested.

Edited by CHarkin on 16/04/2019 at 11:54

Regarding adblue, yes its been used for a while now, but even in some well respected commercial vehicle makes has not been without its issues.

On my new vehicle for example, i was warned by the maker's trainer not to switch the vehicle off at the isolator switch (this is not an issue with cars, but an example of possible future problems) because after running the engine the adblue injector system blows the adblue exhaust injector clear for several seconds after shutdown, this is because adblu will crystalise when it dries, and could otherwise block the injector.

In lorries if the injector fails its a relatively simple fix, as these things have been designed to be worked on, i would not be confident that car makers have been quite so practical.

Its something i would keep in mind if i chose a new Diesel car, and keep an eye on the relative makers forums of vehicles fitted with this engine to see if issues have arisen and if owners or indy techs have found a way of circumventing or fixing such problems, which they tend to do better than the makers who these days just throw new parts at cars.

Overall, if the choice of car was between the Diesel and this new petrol engine, then i would be opting for Diesel, but continuing my long held method of mechanical sympathy and very good servicing.

Just out of interest, does this new Duster let the driver know, eg by a dash light, that a regen is taking place, and/or can the driver cancel regen immediately if not suitable (the vehicle will resume regen once you get moving again), or start a static regen with vehicle stationary on demand via the menu if the vehicle requests one, this is the state of affairs on my new lorry and i am sure many people would be much happier staying with Diesel cars if similar info and switching was there for those sensible enough to make use of it.

Edited by gordonbennet on 16/04/2019 at 12:26

That's interesting CHarkin, thankyou,

though it sounds like a new exhaust when required could be a seriously expensive fix, i have some slight knowledge of trick exhausts designed well before this tech was foisted upon us, our Subaru Outback H6 was originally fitted with a silencer with a by pass built in, a simple enough item that when enough exhaust pressure built up the by pass would open allowing that silencer to be near enough straight through, no aftermarket system available and a new OE system a 4 figure sum, i ended up getting a full stainless system made and fitted for under £300....later models came with twin rear pipes, not just for looks but to allow exhaust gasses to flow better.

Yes it is a pity about everyone being tarred with the 'dumbing down' brush re such regen information, for those disinterested or possibly a danger to themselves and the car the menu could be hidden, but it should be available for those of us who would use the info sensibly.

Obviously knowing the exhaust is going to get hot during a regen is invaluable in my lorry work, but that same info should also be available and obvious for car drivers, many of whom may not realise the exhaust system is being super heated just as they drive onto and park up on a dry grass field, at a summer country show for instance, it's not rocket science the lamp on my vehicle's dash is a simple thermometer/exhaust symbol.

Edited by gordonbennet on 16/04/2019 at 16:32

SLO, I think you are 100% correct?

My relative is a main dealer and gave-up on his Subaru franchise about five years ago despite having great customer loyalty, (he is still an Alfa dealer, so he's used to some headache, Subaru must have been bad)!

I had an 18 month old 10,000 mile 2005 Legacy from him which I ran for three years / 60,000+ miles and this was a brilliant car (despite a chocolate clutch which Subaru replaced under warranty not long after I got it) I only sold it when I moved to a commercial (van).

He told me parts like a front brake master cylinder were horrendously expensive for instance. Fortunately I never needed to buy any parts for mine, apart from the smelly clutch, it never went wrong.

Shame really as I’ve always liked them but I’m put off by the depreciation and possible parts costs.

They are good cars but not cheap to run in terms of fuel and tax costs. They can be bought for a good price due to the depreciation, but it's very much a left field choice.

Aftermarket parts availability hasn't been a problem for my Forester so far (rear exhaust box, springs, dampers, droplinks, radiator, front calipers) and all at prices similar to other makes. Go original through the dealer though and it would be economically unjustifiable. I did have both front wishbones changed by the dealer due to one failing through corrosion (recall), I dread to think how much they were.

Would the actual 'kangarooing' cause the emissions to be worse as it happens?.

If it did, that would be quite ironic......!

Correct, other than a reasonable deduction for your usage (maybe £500) surely you got the rest of the money back?

45 pence per mile

Is it a coincidence that this is the HMRC rate for the first 10k miles. If it is then fuel costs per mile should also be taken off at an average of 12 pence per mile and the dealer should have charged 32 pence per mile. Also, the 45 pence includes insurance so a further deduction would be due from the 32 pence.

I would have added back the trips to the dealer. If you have a faulty TV and take it back to the shop you can claim costs incurred / time to resolve etc. Of course this is all easy to say as an armchair warrior!