Computer leads are usually fitted with 5A fuses and are called (incorrectly and universally) kettle leads, as the female plug is the same size as the correct kettle plug (IEC60320 C13 for a normal domestic computer and type C15 for a kettle) The C15 has an slightly different shape - an extra cut out - see en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_60320 . My last 2 kettles have fixed leads to a base on which the kettle sits.

If the kettle does have a detachable lead then check the lead for the correct fitting.

5A implies an absolute maximum load of not more than 1.155 kW (5A at 230V). There should be a rating plate somewhere on the kettle. I've never had a kettle that was fused less than 13A as bought . 5A seems very low for a kettle.

I'm not an electrician but I have been on a short fuse sizing course many years ago!

Correct. A kettle with a detachable lead uses an "IEC 10amp" connector (the one with the semi-circular interference "bump" to stop you plugging-in one from a computer).

So there is a design to allow safe use at the connection but not actually where the fuse connects. Missed a trick there methinks!

Despite the physics involved in a bulb failing or the other consequences, when the trip occurs it can cause concern for the majority of people for a variety of reasons. It can paralyse a household and for some be very scary. Therefore correct fuse ratings will help enormously. I disagree that I am 'scaremongering'. Surely electrical safety is a good habit or procedure to follow? With the average person not having adequate knowledge of electrical systems or appliances or load ratings through cables and fuses surely the safer the better. You say yourself that the CE is not worth the mark on the product and I agree; so where does the public turn for safety advice? If we don't push the authorities to correct the obvious flaws in products, who does? Scaremongering not withstanding I would take this matter further.

Cheers Concrete

GB, treat yourself to a new consumer unit with MCB's (miniature circuit breakers) and a main RCCB (residual current circuit breaker).

The RCCB detects an in-balance in current between the live and neutral, so this means there must an earth fault.

Much safer than the old fuse boards (an RCCB can easily save your life) and a lot more convenient (I remember my dad searching for a torch, then some fuse wire, then a screwdriver back in the 1960's) :)

Modern boards now have "split" feeds, so the lighting circuit is on a separate supply to the sockets - handy that the lights stay on when a crappy Chinese kettle blows a fuse!

Edited by nick62 on 15/03/2019 at 13:38

Nick, yes it's something we will get around to, we'll get it done when we need an electrician for something else no doubt, not a simple change because we have a rather long bungalow and the earth having to come we are told all the way from the garage where the electrics are sited to the (food preparation room) to clip to the water main is going to be a long run indeed.

Hello GB, unless your electrical system is very old you should have an earth to service, which means the earth connections all lead back to the main supply cable. Earth bonding to water pipes can help. though. A friend of mine has an old cottage and his earth is a metal rod driven into the ground and the earthing from his wiring goes back to that. Seems to work alright. We have an RCCB and MCB consumer unit and it is easier to reset after a trip than trying to repair the old hard wired fuses. May be worth the investment. If you ever need to sell then the electrics would probably need to be completely updated as part of the conditions of purchase.

Cheers Concrete

If you ever need to sell then the electrics would probably need to be completely updated as part of the conditions of purchase.

Not required, it is just like buying/selling a second-hand car privately.

I think my use of the word 'probably' is correct in this instance. We recently sold an older house and the survey included an inspection and test of the electrical wiring system. We had the old Wylex consumer unit with wired fuses. Although the system passed with flying colours the surveyor recommended as part of the mortgage offer to the prospective buyer that the Wxlex unit be changed to an RCCB unit with MCB circuit breakers. Not a problem if you are buying outright but if the mortgage offer depends on some improvements or changes then it is advisable to implement them or forgo the offer. Not all is black and white!

Cheers Concrete

Travel or caravan kettles run at much lower wattages than the hi-speed domestic item. IIRC ours in the 'van is around 1Kw. While it would be possible to use a 3Kw kettle in that situation it'll take up 13 of the 16amps on the shore supply; doesn't leave much overhead for anything never mind a 1Kw blown air heating system.....

No such thing as a 3kw kettle anymore Bromptonaut, they were a throwback of the old round-pin 15A socket ratings. The maximum rating is 2.4kw (10 amps at 240v).

Fair do's FO, I hadn't considered that the "cordless" jugs don't use the IEC 10amp connector anymore, (which limited the element to 2.4kw @ 240v).

I accept that IEC connector will limit them to 2.4kw, but I had never appreciated that.

I worked in the domestic appliance industry in the late 70's / early 80's when they were first introduced.