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Any FWD - Split CV joint gaiters - edlithgow

Noticed one of the CV gaiters is chucking a bit of grease around, and the other likely isn't far behind. I'll patch it meantime, but I should have time for a longer term repair during the winter vacation.

I've only ever fitted the split CV replacement gaiters in the past, and they lasted as long as the cars did, but in the UK inspection regime my bangers tended not to last very long.

Here longer life should be possible, (7 years so far) so I'm wondering if the extra hassle of fitting an original-style gaiter is justified.

How do they compare?

Any FWD - Split CV joint gaiters - Peter.N.

I always use 'original type' boots, they are not to difficult to fit if you go the right about it, assuming you have removable CV joints.

Having undone the the hub centre nut and disconnected the bottom ball joint, slide the old boot up the shaft away from the joint, clean the grease from the shaft and you will see where the it goes into the joint, get a clod chisel about a foot long, position it against the joint as flat as you can to the shaft and give it a clout with a heavy hammer, if you get it right it should compress the snap ring and the joint should come off.

Its important that you give it a really smart clout or you could pull the drive shaft out. If you take the shafts out its even easier because you can grip it in a vice to remove it.

'Refitting is a reversal of the process' hitting the end of the shaft (with the nut on) should reset the snap ring in position.

Edited by Peter.N. on 24/12/2018 at 11:26

Any FWD - Split CV joint gaiters - gordonbennet

Good description Peter.N.

Now just to make your day, i had to replace both inner boots on the Subaru Outback, and i haven't yet come across a better design for refurb/repair.

The output shafts from the gearbox are splines, with the driveshaft held in place on the output shafts by through roll pins, easily popped out with the correct size drift, no danger of damage.

Then with entire driveshaft out, you find both CV joints are held in place with circlips, making the whole shaft and CV's fully dismantled for cleaning regreasing and new boots in no time at all, all cars should be like this (solid engineering), again no danger of damage.

I couldn't get genuine OE boots at the time, but the standard motor factor boots lasted with no issues, the inners on the Subarus are subject to serious heat because the sit just above the CATs hence always something to check if you ever look at a Subaru.

Any FWD - Split CV joint gaiters - edlithgow

Oops. DP.

See below

Edited by edlithgow on 24/12/2018 at 15:37

Any FWD - Split CV joint gaiters - edlithgow

Thanks for the info. Dunno specifics on this car yet, because I don't have a manual, but the Charade G10 and G100 are probably very similar..

I did actually take the drive shaft out when I did my Renault 5, even though I was fitting a "split" boot, because it was easier to keep things clean.on the draining board of the tea-break room where I worked (Weekend. No one about).

Might do the same this time, but unfortunately I don't have access to a vice.(or a tea-break room)

May come down to what's available. I wouldn't be surprised if you can't get split boots here, though it looks like it might not be prohibitive to Amazon them.

There's a British mechanic who runs a car sourcing bizniz here in Taiwan who reckons Subaru are the most maintenance-friendly machines he's worked on, which, given that they have to overcome the inherent disadvantages of being mostly 4WD flat fours (I think, never had one, though I drove a Forester in Australia) is quite impressive.

Any FWD - Split CV joint gaiters - gordonbennet

I agree Subarus are a pleasure to service, but any head work (even spark plug changes a horrid skin removing exercise) is seriously awkward, and a cambelt change is not for the faint hearted.

If you want designed to be fixed in the field with a hammer and half a dozen ring spanners, then older Landcruiser and Hilux take some beating.

Any FWD - Split CV joint gaiters - edlithgow

"designed to be fixed in the field with a hammer and half a dozen ring spanners," sounds like a description of my Lada, and it came with most of the spanners.

Think it might have been designed in the field too.

Not in the Hilux league, I'd guess, but also quite distant from one in price.

Best 40 quid I ever spent. Miss it.

Any FWD - Split CV joint gaiters - hardway

Sticking in my two cents,

Either boot works fine,

depending on fitting,

the split boots can be a little bit of a pain to line up for the glue.

I normally have a few zip ties nearby to pre clamp it first.

Advantages of soild boots being the entire CV joint gets stripped for clean/inspection then fully repacked with grease.

But CV grease is the devils own stuff.

It just gets into everywhere and sticks.

Any FWD - Split CV joint gaiters - bathtub tom
But CV grease is the devils own stuff.

It just gets into everywhere and sticks.

Never tried using wellseal then?

You take off your protective gloves, to smear the damn stuff on more effectively and then after doing up the joint you bother to read the instructions that state - carcinogenic!

Edited by bathtub tom on 26/12/2018 at 18:28

Any FWD - Split CV joint gaiters - edlithgow

I came across an internyet forum recommendation to install split-boots on top of, and without removing, the originals.

I don't think I'd thought of that, and certainly have never done it, but it has a certain belt-and-braces appeal IF the originals are only just starting to fail (so the grease isn't contaminated) and IF there wont be chafe between the two boots leading to premature failure..

I'm rather doubtful about the second point.

Has anyone tried this?