I've never been into Laos, but I have travelled on the other side of the Mekong quite a few times and occasionally driven. Doing so, I'm always mindful of the stories that any accident is the farang's very expensive fault.
But I'm also mindful that my worst ever road experience was in a privately hired Toyota Commuter with a recommended driver who seemed to have a suicide wish. They can work long hours and take crazy chances.
No easy answer (unless you have friends/family to take you around) but faced with the choice, I'm not sure that I'd necessarily take the professional driver.
I guess - but do not know - that things might be similar north/east of the Mekong. Perhaps the roads might be quieter? All I know is that there are a lot more Peugeots!
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